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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Now, manual cars normally do this a bit, especially in the lower gears but it's now noticeable it in 3rd and 4th gear as well. Does anyone have any ideas as to what would cause this? I'm thinking vacuum leak that may or may not have been caused by them disassembling a bunch of stuff, but I'm not sure. I'm hoping it doesn't have anything to do with them not adjusting the timing correctly when they replaced the chain. Another possibility is that it's excessive drag caused by the AC compressor. I added some more R134a and overfilled it a bit. I let some back out, but it's possible it could still be overfilled. However, the problem should go away when I turn off the compressor but it does not. Thoughts?
__________________ 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 2010 Mazda 5 Last edited by shawnmos; 08-01-2019 at 08:13 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How are your engine mounts? Also if you had a vacuum leak you should be able to see a difference in your fuel trims on your AP, assuming you have an AP or some kind of data logging device hooked up.
__________________ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 / Cobb SRI / 219K and Counting 1995 EG6 B16A3 78K *sold* |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score just ac compressor turning on and off could make some drag but you can easily turn it off just to compare if it is that... When i drove my skyactive 3, i switch AC off to pass a car and for a low power engine, it makes a difference.... btw have you added petrolum equivalent r134 or real r134 ? I'm curious because in here, we need a special licence to manipulate freon but not the small petrolum products replacement in can....And some specify to use just half or 40% of the freon weight needed....
__________________ Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better... 2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress... 1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB 2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts 1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup Wife drive 2010 CX7 2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it) ...Because French Canadian... If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks.... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Engine breaking is called ZZB.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ha ha. OP probably does not even know why this is funny. Spelling must not be a high priority. I'm not the grammar and spelling police. We all make mistakes, but that was funny. As to why his engine braking may be excessive, there are lots of possible explanations. I'd lean toward exploring engine and transmission mounts first. These cars are getting a lot of age and miles on them. Fixing one thing, especially if it increases or restores lost power, can reveal other problems that were latent. An abrupt movement of the engine and transmission when letting up on the gas may be causing this sensation. That points to one or more bad engine or transmission mounts. Also, if the ac solenoid clutch is sticking so that the ac compressor is turning all the time, even when it is turned "off" this could, indeed, put a heavy load on the belts, pulleys and introduce a lot of drag to the engine. That would stress weak engine/transmission mounts. It will also burn out the compressor. OP should look and see if the compressor is turning when the ac is switched off. It should stop when off, and resume when turned on. That is visible.
__________________ 2017 Audi Q5 3.0 T (supercharged) Stage 2+ EPL tune, JHM overdrive crank pulley, EPL supercharger pulley, ZF8 TCU tune, aFe/034 intake, modified air box. 480 hp. Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership) BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Doh ![]()
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I don't have an AP but I have Forscan on my laptop. I honestly don't know enough about what they should look like to know whether they are off.
__________________ 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 2010 Mazda 5 Last edited by shawnmos; 08-01-2019 at 08:21 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | ||
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| Not Ranked : 0 score STFT and LTFT combinned should remain inside a +/-10% with a proper maf tune (Cobb say 8%) have you checked if it is different if you switch to neutral just to isolate motor/trans from the equation when you decelerate ? The car should almost ''fly'' in neutral or you may have a stikky brake or a bearing...
__________________ Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better... 2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress... 1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB 2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts 1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup Wife drive 2010 CX7 2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it) ...Because French Canadian... If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks.... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score This was just a 5min drive around the block.
__________________ 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 2010 Mazda 5 |
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I just replaced the RMM hoping that would fix the problem but it did not make much difference.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Attaching a few different drives/days. The more I've been reading the more it sounds like a fuel cutoff when I let go of the gas.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What RPM does it happen at? I've noticed that when I let the gas go and coast in gear the engine feels somewhat rough around 3K. Like lets say I'll go up to 5k RPM and let the gas go and roll (any gear btw) when the RPM's start dropping the engine feels smooth till about 3K then it gets rough between 3k-2.5ish.k and then under 2.5k RPM it feels ok again. IDK if it's something similar or not. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
However, it still jerks violently when I first start to accelerate. It doesn't seem to matter the RPM, though it's worse the lower the gear. It's still somewhat noticeable in 5th or 6th gear though. Just feathering the pedal a bit and it jerks a lot.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I think I have noticed a similar phenomenon with very little throttle input. Off throttle, the fuel is cut off. But at very light throttle where I'm still slowing down but not as much as off throttle, it feels a little jerky. I just assumed it was the nature of having a 3.5" intake and maybe the MAFcal was slightly off in that area. Or maybe the throttle tables needed to be refined in that area. It didn't bother me enough dig into it.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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