Help me bleed my clutch! Video

[1324Kyle]

Hi everyone,
I recently replaced my clutch slave cylinder and attempted to bleed it with my brother and didn't have much luck. So I went on amazon and bought a hand vac pump. I have repeated the same process of overfilling the reservoir, opening the bolt on the bleeding nipple, pumping till I fill about half my small container that is connected to the pump, closing the bolt, and finally refilling about 10 times now. I have spent the past hour doing this and don't think I have made much, if any progress.

Here is a video, in the beginning I'm clearly not pumping but you can see when I do because of all the bubbles.

https://youtu.be/6rxfYztBAZw

Maybe I'm stupid and It's completely bleed, if it is, please let me know lol

And if I'm correct and it's still not fully bleed, do you think that I'm doing the process wrong, should I be pumping slowly for a low pressure or quickly for a higher pressure?

This is my first time bleeding anything so any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
-Kyle

[Db09ms3]

How to bleed MazdaSpeed 3 clutch slave cylinder

Planning to do mine soon too. Going to follow the instructions above when I do.

[aackthpt]

Try to have the tube from the bleeder going upward if you can. Not that that's the problem since it's obvious all that air that isn't coming from the catch bottle. You either don't have enough fluid in the reservoir to go above the baffle wall and fill the clutch side of the bottle (likely... go fill it all the way to the rim rather than just to the full line), or you have a leak somewhere between the clutch master cylinder and the bleeder valve. That bleeder valve looks new and doesn't appear to have any teflon sealant, so are you even sure that it seals properly to the slave housing?

And as an aside, WTF is with that brass monstrosity underneath it? Is this the special MPS steampunk edition?

[1324Kyle]

Originally Posted by aackthpt Try to have the tube from the bleeder going upward if you can. Not that that's the problem since it's obvious all that air that isn't coming from the catch bottle. You either don't have enough fluid in the reservoir to go above the baffle wall and fill the clutch side of the bottle (likely... go fill it all the way to the rim rather than just to the full line), or you have a leak somewhere between the clutch master cylinder and the bleeder valve. That bleeder valve looks new and doesn't appear to have any teflon sealant, so are you even sure that it seals properly to the slave housing? And as an aside, WTF is with that brass monstrosity underneath it? Is this the special MPS steampunk edition?

I have been over-filling the reservoir every time and only took out a little at a time to prevent any air from getting in through there. The clutch slave cylinder is brand new therefore there is no sealant on the bleeder valve. When you say "sure that is seals properly to slave housing", do you mean the tube connected to the pump being properly sealed to the bleeder? The fitting was a little loose therefore I wouldn't be surprised if air was able to escape/enter through there. I figured this wouldn't make a difference as people have successfully bleed their clutch without a pump, and clearly the pump was pulling the air/fluid through.

Thanks for the response
Kyle

[aackthpt]

Originally Posted by 1324Kyle When you say "sure that is seals properly to slave housing", do you mean the tube connected to the pump being properly sealed to the bleeder? The fitting was a little loose therefore I wouldn't be surprised if air was able to escape/enter through there. I figured this wouldn't make a difference as people have successfully bleed their clutch without a pump, and clearly the pump was pulling the air/fluid through.

I mean make sure the threads of the bleeder seal properly to the housing of the slave cylinder. You should also make sure the tube connected to the pump is properly sealed to the bleeder. The object of bleeding is to make sure the fluid in the hydraulic system is clean, and there is absolutely no air in the system. Therefore, generally when you do this the goal is to see clean fluid with NO AIR BUBBLES coming out of the tube attached to the bleeder. With all these air bubbles coming out you don't know if they are being introduced in the seal between the bleeder and the hose, which case your bleed might be OK, or being introduced between the bleeder and slave housing in which case you're NG, or somewhere further up between the slave and the master in which case you're NG. Since there's no way to tell, start sealing it from the bleeder attachment then working up the line. But the bottom line is there should be no air in the tube attached to the bleeder if you are to be assured that the job is done correctly.

Watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc&t=5m0s from about 5:00 to about 6:30 and you'll see how the fluid should come out if everything is working correctly. The fluid going into the tube from the bleeder won't even look like it's flowing if things are working properly. This air bubbling is WAY wrong.

[memin]

OP what was the final outcome??I am going thru almost same situation using a hand pump but in my case air bubbles are not coming out is just a little bite of brake fluid at time.That is my concern that more brake fluid should come out.Brake fluid is coming out in drops and not constantly stream.I replaced the clutch and slave,Anybody has any ideas?????