Help! P0302 issue! Possible injector failure?

[ganque]

EDIT:
New issue started a week ago. Now getting P0302. Please go directly to post #149
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...ml#post2285548


Everything else got resolved (boost leak and ECU issues).

Sup everyone,
So after installing the Matt Damond SSP and replacing my DO7 nozzle I took my car for a spin and looks like it started to act really weird when the turbo starts to spool.
I decided to take it back home and checked my STFT and they where around -7% on idle and then got back to 0% ~ -2%.
I decided to check the SRI pipe, MAF housing, everything was fine... did a hard reboot on my ECU... reflashed my AP map... still the car gets those numbers on idle.
When I take my car for a drive if I try to add some load to the engine it feels like it's running rich, and gets come hicups...
Decided to replace my spark plugs today, brand new NGK.... still same issue...
Did a compression test, here are the results:

138
140
155
155

I may have done the compression test in a wrong way since I didn't remove all the plugs, just 1 by 1 and kept the engine running.... So that might be my bad... but again it doesn't sound like a cracked piston, or rings from my experience.

My theories are either a bad coil, or well worst case scenario a cracked piston...

Any ideas???

Attached are 2 logs:
One on idle and another one revving it at 3000 rpms.


Please help

EDIT:
Forgot to mention that spark plug on cyl #1 was soaked in oil... checked oil and it was overfilled with almost a quart... removed the excess and it's still doing the issue...

[El_Diablo]

To do a compression test you need to keep the engine from firing. You don't have to pull all the plugs to do this but you might aswell. With your compression tester installed in place of a plug you need to hold the throttle wide open and crank until the pressure stabilizes.

[ganque]

still.. the engine doesn't sound like a bad piston/rod issue...
Any other idea?
@jack_hammer; @Lex; @silvapain;

[Lex]

You mentioned this happened right after you replaced the D07 nozzle. Based on LTFTs the first thing I would do is a boost leak check.

[ganque]

The only things that I moved where the intake and TIP, but that might be true... I need to get a boos leak tester.
What about a bad spark coil? Could that also be a possibility? I'm so worried to see a bad piston ring, cause I only saw oil on cylinder #1 .




Sent from my iPhone using Tapamex

[El_Diablo]

You can move the plug and coil each to different cylinders. If the issue moves with the coil or the plug you know where your issue lies.

[jack_hammer]

haha buddy, i'm flattered to be mentioned with lex & silvapain, but i obviously am no gear head.

the first thing i would suggest is to take a deep breath. you always think of the worst possible scenario.

i think you're working a couple different issues. so, try to keep the separate in your head until you see they're related.

1) the AFRs. as mentioned previously, check for leaks.

2) compression - different people do them differently and still consider their way the "right" way. i take a simple approach. remove all plugs. hook up tester to #1 . crank until the needle stops moving. i do not hold down the throttle. then, do the next one. also, if your readings are varied (less than 15% of each other) then maybe try a wet test, too. drop a shot of oil in the cylinder and retest. just try to add the same amount of oil to each so you can get consistent results.

3) oil on spark plug. could easily be related to the compression. but i'm not sure what you mean by spark plug coil. do you mean spark plug or coil pack? like diablo said, though, you can move them around and see if the issue follows. i would not put the #1 plug with the #1 coil pack, though. just make a note of what you do so you don't forget.

take your car apart, put it back together carefully. drive around and see what happens. don't panic about the oil and compression. there's no need. if your engine is toast, then worrying won't fix it.

[Lex]

Even with a bad ringland you are unlikely to get sputtering on spool. People run with these around without too much in terms of driveability. Take a log showing the symptoms.

[btstarcher]

My money is on where the TIP meets the turbo.

[ganque]

Thanks everyone for your feedback...
I'm planning on getting my coil pack replaced with a friend's MS3, also will remove entirely the TIP and reinstall everything.

[ganque]

took the TIP off, redo everything from turbo to air filter... same issue...
Last hope is the coil pack...

[jack_hammer]

Are you sure the meth is flowing like it should?

[ganque]

100% sure.

[btstarcher]

Wouldn't a vacuum leak also give you wonky idle afr's?

[Lex]

I have been surprised by leaks before - redoing an intake is not as effective as pressurizing it and if you have a compressor handy it's a very easy test to do.

[btstarcher]

You're vacuum is only aroun -8.4, has it always been like that?

[silvapain]

A couple things I noticed in your logs:


1. In the 3,000 RPM log, your LTFT's indicate you are in Open Loop, but you shouldn't be based on the boost PSI, throttle position, and calculated load.

2. Your Boost Air Temps are very high in both logs.

3. You are commanding WGDC even at idle.

4. Your vacuum readings are low in both logs.

5. The Mass Airflow reading in the idle log is very low. It should be around 6ish g/s, especially when you're idling at 900 RPM.


I suggest you build a boost leak tester and see what you find:
How-To NATOR A Boost Leak Tester for $15
How to DIY Boost Leak Tester
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...st-leak-89918/

[ganque]

Thanks for all your responses. I ran a few tests last night, a friend came visit with his MS3 and I used his coil packs on my car, same issue, used his MAF same issue.
So yeah, I still have the Boost leak theory (which I will definitely address it today), but there's also another theory that might be related to bad gas. I've seen it tons of times where people find out that gas is mixed with water.... fucking gas stations are doing that...

What do you guys think?
Here's another interesting fact. Whenever I start the car it does sounds fine for the first 10 or 15 seconds, then after that everything just crashes... So those first 10 seconds the car runs on 0 on STFT and -10% LTFT. Then after that same thing from what you saw on my logs.

But yeah I'll run a boost leak test... I just need to get a compressor and all the things..
So @silvapain; from what I saw on those threads, I just need to connect the pressurized line into the TIP and that's it?

Originally Posted by btstarcher You're vacuum is only aroun -8.4, has it always been like that?

For some reason the AP has always read -9 ~ -8 on vaccum, however my dashhawk reads -18 ~ -19

[jack_hammer]

i would build the tester so you can put it on your intake. just remove the filter and install the boost leak tester. that way you can make sure you're not leaking out of your maf housing as well.

[silvapain]

Luis, the DashHawk reads vacuum in inHg, and the AP reads in PSI.

It probably runs fine for the first several seconds because its in OL when you first start the car.

[ganque]

Originally Posted by silvapain Luis, the DashHawk reads vacuum in inHg, and the AP reads in PSI. It probably runs fine for the first several seconds because its in OL when you first start the car.

Thanks for this great info Dan!
I'm definitely running a boost leak test today... crossing fingers

[jack_hammer]

and then?

[btstarcher]

Dumb question but is the OCC installed correctly? Hoses on tight?

[ganque]

Originally Posted by jack_hammer and then?

I finally made my boost leak tester, I just need to get an air compressor. It's been an entire week already I just want this to go away

My current theories are:
- Leak at the inlet pipe from the BPV return line
- Leak from the purge valve? (not sure since there arent any CELs yet...
- Leak somewhere in the PCV? My PCV is still stock and no OCC installed yet
- Exhaust leak
- Bad Gas (some gas stations in Mexico might have water on their gasoline which is BS

[ganque]

Crap. P0302 - Misfire on cyl #2 just popped! this was while cold start....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapamex

[btstarcher]

Awwwww shit.....

[ganque]

Just checked for boost leaks, found 2 but still having the same rough idle...
No exhaust leaks at all... @Tokay444;

I'm going to remove the TIP again.... Going to do a closer inspection this time



Sent from my iPhone using Tapamex

[Tokay444]

Check that turbo too while you're there.

[ganque]

I actually checked the turbo last weekend while I removed the TIP, no issues from what I can tell, however I'll take video from it, I'm just waiting to it to cool down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapamex

Maybe it's just bad gas. What do u think?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapamex

[Tokay444]

I'm not sure about that.

[ganque]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1378588452.369184.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1378588472.492335.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1378588484.173901.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1378588503.336210.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1378588518.104725.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapamex

[ganque]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapamex

[Lex]

Pull the spark plugs again. Is one still covered in oil? If yes, you have to look at the cylinder a little bit more closely.

[ganque]

I did that this morning, all plugs are clean and look good.

Ok guys so I've just reinstalled tip, issue is still going however the STFT changed a LOT.
Now it's between 0.62 and 1.40 on idle. LTFT are -7.96.
I'm really thinking that could be bad gas? It's mexico... you know...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1378591458.521011.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapamex

[ganque]

Another fact is that I changed my O2 sensor about a month ago... Could be also that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapamex

[Lex]

Give the LTFTs time to settle. With STFTs in that range they will be close to zero and it seems you did fix a leak if the LTFTs are returning to 0.

[ganque]

Good!
So I took the car for a spin, when I started it went to -3.28 then after a few seconds jumped to -1.78 and stayed there for about a minute and then to 1.40. All this time in idle.
LTFT are still in -9.42.

There must be another leak somewhere cause I can spool the turbo on mid throttle but it fails when I go WOT.
I got another misfire on cyl 2 again.... WTF


Sent from my iPhone using Tapamex

[SilverDemon]

What is the commanded afr? I am thinking that the narrow band O2 sensor could be the culprit. Since the stft and the ltft are well with in a "normal" range I would bet that the ecu is commanding the higher afr because of the feed back from the O2.

Edit: Do you have a way to log secondary O2 sensor voltage ?

[Lex]

Take a log of this spooling and "failing." The logs tells you (and us) a lot of information about what is going on.

[ganque]

Originally Posted by SilverDemon What is the commanded afr? I am thinking that the narrow band O2 sensor could be the culprit. Since the stft and the ltft are well with in a "normal" range I would bet that the ecu is commanding the higher afr because of the feed back from the O2. Edit: Do you have a way to log secondary O2 sensor voltage ?

not sure if the AP does that, but I also have a Dashhawk. Which one should I use?

here is a video of the turbo check:


0FA14EEF-ABDA-42E3-8C59-C08DBDEA0CC0-450-000000218122D8B8_zpsad8b5174.mp4 Video by ganque | Photobucket

here is a video of the turbo check:


0FA14EEF-ABDA-42E3-8C59-C08DBDEA0CC0-450-000000218122D8B8_zpsad8b5174.mp4 Video by ganque | Photobucket