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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Then I went and looked at the injectors (got them in a big box o' parts. They were still in the fuel rail). I see two seals on there. There's one thin (and broken) one at the top, then a fat blue o-ring. That's it. Neither of them look like the Toyota part. I looked on Edge and they show three seals, but nothing tells me where they go. So I went to the dealership to get a schematic. He shows a total of 5 seals. Four in the top and one on the bottom. And he wanted almost $300 for new ones. My guess is that this Toyota one goes on the bottom. Is that right? Also, am I really missing that many seals? And do I have to get them from the dealership? I've searched on here, but people just talk about the "injector seal" like it's one part. How many are there and do I need to buy all new ones? |
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__________________ 2007 TR MazdaSpeed3:Autotech FP inernals, CorkSport Turbo, TR8 Front Mount w/CX piping, JBR 3" intake, COBB EBCS, Cobb AP, Toyota Injector Seals, FR stud mod, Fidanza flywheel/LUK clutch, Forge BPV v2, cp-e xFlex stage 2 RMM, Wiseco .20 Pistons/Manley Rods/BSD, Dual DM catch cans, Koni Yellows/H&R springs, FD wheels, eBay downpipe, stock CBE 2005 Mazda 3 SP23: mods include rusty quarter panels and grinding 3rd gear. It does have a fusion motor, so I guess that's a mod too. | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks. Good to have confirmed. So how many should there be at the top of the injector? I only see 2 but the Mazda schematic shows 4. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Toyota seals are a cheap temporary fix in my opinion. I’d opt for CS for long run purposes.
__________________ 2010 black mica speed3 The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG. The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights. Soon:built motor |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If it's on the parts diagram, there are that many. https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/i...ze/4B17421.jpg though from the names one is an 'o' ring, and three are called "grommet". I added all 4 of all 4 to my cart from https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/s...category=24722 and it came to $238.23 including the exorbitant sum of $29.95 for shipping. Edge Autosport appeared at my quick glance to have 3 of these, but I'm not sure they're any cheaper. I'm surprised they don't have a kit of all of them. The reason most of the discussion surrounds the injector-to-head seal is it's the one that makes you lose pwar. If the stuff sealing it to the rail goes, gas leaks out and the car goes up in flames, then they're no longer worried about power OR injector seals.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Precisionline Fuel Injectors Sold me a kit for much cheaper than the dealer when I got my injectors cleaned. While they are out I would suggest having them serviced, you won't regret it. I didn't put enough lube on o-rings and accidentally cut them when putting the fuel rail on. Ended up using my stock o-rings with his cut washers because the stock cut washers fell apart. Just give them a light coating of engine oil like you would do for an oil filter. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You have the seal itself, the oring, and a few grommets. when i did CS seals in March, the cheapest place i found to buy the orings and grommets was tascaparts.com. they're damn pricey no matter who you get them from.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score toyota seals are not a shortcut, they work just fine. Keep in mind they were designed for a diesel engine, so I can assure you pressures aren't the issue. 90% its the install/prep that causes the failure. The mating block surface needs to be in good condition, if you had to pry the old ones out of the block you'll need to smooth the surface first. CSs are a little more forgiving with damaged mating surfaces due to the increased surface area of the design. So look in the holes and if the surfaces towards the bottom and at the flat base are in good shape toyotas are fine, if there are tool marks and/or scrapes from removing the stuck ones then you'd be better served with the CSs if you arent confident you can smooth them back out. I run toyotas in my built engine and am perfectly happy as are many others. Either way you need to make sure you clean those suckers out squeaky clean at a minimum. Corrosion, dirt, etc will all prevent a good tight seal. On the seals you have the bottom one(toyota seal) that seals the injector to the block. Then you have a combo of 3 on the top of the injector that goes in the rail. Total of 4 pieces. The order is(top to bottom): 1. a thin white plastic membrane/washer 2. a blue oring 3. a split hard plastic washer/spacer(black) 4. Actual injector seal - Toyota or CS replacement You need the split washer and the oring, the plastic membrane only serves to prevent the blue oring from getting stuck in the fuel rail. If I can find my spare set I'll try to snap a pic of reference. As others have pointed out its probably a good idea to send them out for cleaning/balancing while the engine is apart. The precision guy out of Canada does a good job for a good price and as long as you ask ahead of time will replace the upper blue orings as well for another ~$5. You can also buy the oring kit from him for pretty cheap. Hopefully you have the black split spacers as those are a huge pita to find/replace.
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Grommet Oring Grommet Grommet Seal None of the pieces are hard to find, they're just expensive when you're redoing the entire set on all four injectors. Also not a bad idea to replace the oring and grommets where the fuel hardline plugs into the rail, as long as you're already in that far.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Good catch, I completely forgot thats 2 pieces under the oring. Found a really good pick below showing everything, saves me from having to dig out mine tonight.
__________________ "Sarcasm and shit talking are two different things. MSF offers the best advice, just delivered by sarcastic pricks, with your best interest in mind." -ThePedigree13 Silver 06 MS6 - DD stealth build - no show, all go.... '12 Abarth Challenge Car - very loud, very fast, very inconvenient to drive on the street... |
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