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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score UPDATE 12/24: Replaced the switch & still have no lights. WTF?! Last edited by BoostedRide; 12-24-2017 at 11:08 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Disconnect the camera, and see if your lights work again. Yes=consider yourself lucky, and pay an audio shop to install your camera correctly. No= Check the 15a fuse labelled meter. If its not blown, you may have damaged the BCM. Take your car to the dealer and pay them to fix it.. Then go pay a shop to install your camera. I honestly dont understand how you mess up this install? Two wires to connect, both of them right there at the bulb. The factory ground wire is even black, just like the camera ground..
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Really not trying to be hard on you, but the only thing that changed was what you did. If there are no blown fuses, then remove everything. Take it back to original condition. Then see if the lights come back on. Do a hard reset, by removing a battery cable and depressing the brake pedal to discharge any stored energy. Wait a full minute and reconnect the battery. This should restore it to original condition, if you did remove everything - everything.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score check your bulbs...and 2nd who needs reverse lights..when yo car starts backing up folks will get out the way..hell..my daily the reverse lights never worked..prolly just blown but im too lazy to replace em..why..cuz when i start backing up ppl get out the way lol
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score C'mon I checked the bulbs long ago. Also, cars will not pass inspection w/no lights! |
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What color wire did you tap into? "We have met the enemy, and he is us." Pogo
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| Not Ranked : 0 score question: do your LED tail lights have built in or external resistors to offset the less draw? Next question did you tap in before or after said resistors?
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Everything in the car, including all other lights, function perfectly fine. The only wiring I touched was the small section of the red/yellow reverse wire that I tapped into. I did cut that portion out & reconnect the wire to make sure that wasn't it & I still have no reverse lights. Also, keep in mind that, once the reverse lights stopped working, I disconnected the backup cam & have not bothered to reinstall that since. Need to fix the reverse light issue 1st. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score A 50w bulb will draw about 4 amps at 12v. A back up cam will draw .1-.2 amps. That wont blow anything. A led tail light has built in current limiting resistors. The add on resistor is only to make the car think the bulb is not blown when it has the bulb blown light on the dash or fast flashing notifications. What i think happened is he shorted the wire blowing the bcm or maby the bulb socket/wire has a bad connection from being fucked with/cut. What did the volt meter read when you checked the wire? You did check the wire first before tapping into it right? You did check your fuses right?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Imagine the time/money/hassle that could be saved by just looking in your rear view mirror, or turning around when backing up... If you NEED a backup camera to be able to park correctly, you probably need to learn how to actually drive first.
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Alright, I understand hating on unnecessary modifications that actually detract from the car or what it was made to do, but a backup camera? Ya I suppose in this case it has done more harm than good, but the OP is is attempting to correct the error, and there's nothing wrong with that. If you want to put visual mods on your car, then cool, more power to you. But imagine the time/money/hassle that could be saved by just being okay with how the car looked originally? I mean damn, if these cars are about what we NEED, I'm sure all of us would sell them and buy Camry's.
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If it were me i would say to my self... . The reverse signal comes from the tranny and goes into the bcm... ill start at one end and work my way down..... I will start at the light. Is there 12v yes/no. No= go to bcm is there 12v yes/no. Yes= break in wire, no =check fuse. Is fuse good yes/no. Yes= bcm fucked No =replace fuse. Idk start useing that meter and figure it out. And when i check a wire i strip back the wire and poke the lead thru the middle.
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Giggity
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If the wire broke somewhere, that's one hell of a coincidence. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Some times i cant find the hole and needed my coworker to put it in.... we used to have whight yellow wire lube that i would have to lube up the wire many times a day before yanking it thru a hole the same way i would lube up a cock i mean my cock....
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One bad output or connection most likely wont take out the entire bcm, just the incorrect/damaged circuit.. Check at the bcm. If you have the input signal from the transmission, but no output to the lights, you have damaged your BCM. All the wiring info you need to diagnose this problem is in the link I gave you in your original camera post.
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Power moves like this: Meter fuse>bcm>trans switch>bcm>reverse lights You can test every component of the circuit at the BCM connectors. 15 minutes with a multimeter and you'll know exactly whats wrong.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Where is the reverse switch? I can't find anything with a blue connector going into the trans. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score IIRC the connector at the trans is grey, not blue. I generally test from the bcm wiring, that way your testing the full circuit rather than just the switch. The switch can be tested from pins 8b and 8p in connector F at the bcm.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score With ign on (car not started) and in reverse, I get 12v at 8b & 0.6v at 8p at the BCM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What did the wires meter not in reverse. You also said you are checking the switch but did you check the output of the bcm to the reverse light itself?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Voltage on 8b tells you the bcm output to the switch is fine. Pin 10 can't have any voltage because be bcm isn't getting a signal back from the reverse switch. Next youll need to go to the reverse switch connector at the trans. Test for the voltage from the bcm on one pin(g/b wire). And then test for continuity across both the switch terminals when in reverse. If you dont have voltage you'll need to fix the damaged wire between the switch and pin 8b(unlikely). If you dont have continuity between the switch terminals in reverse you have a bad switch(more likely). If you do have continuity and voltage on g/b wire, you'll need to repair the damaged r/y wire between the switch and pin 8p.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score & whatever Rock Auto is selling as the reverse switch for the MS6 is not the right one . Only the connector is same as OE. The switch itself aint even close. Looked online at pics of this OE part# too & they are all too short also wtf. Apparently I need to find another part# Last edited by BoostedRide; 12-21-2017 at 03:01 PM. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Someone one of the MS Facebook groups gave me the right part#, thankfully. It is A610-17-640B Hope that helps people in the future |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Replaced the switch & still have no lights. WTF?! |
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![]() | | #32 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Jacksonville, NC
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You didnt test the switch before you replaced it?
__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks |
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