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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I bought a SRI+TIP from Corcksport, Cp-e RMM, Cobb AP, Denso itv20 and TurboXs race pipe. What should I do with this setup? RMM and plugs are already on the car. What about the rest? Is it ok to put it all on with OTS map for Stage 1 sri+tip tune? Or maybe I should leave the race pipe for later when I buy hpfp and then put stage 2 map already? (which will take few months). I have no idea if the RP will help or hurt or maybe make no difference on OTS Stage 1 AP tune. The spark plugs should be ok with these mods? I don't want go one step colder if I don't have to. I would like to stay "Stage 1" for a while and work on reliability of the car. In this scenario I should probably delete the EGR asap and clean the valves. what next? Any suggestions? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Since you're relatively new I find it only fair to give you a freebie. Grab a beverage and enjoy: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...st-read-99499/ Regardless of your experience level, all related information can be extracted from that thread. If there's something you don't understand, post your specific question in one of the linked tech threads. GL. |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Design For This Useful Post: | motherfnmonsta (07-25-2012), Raider (07-24-2012) |
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Tapatalking
__________________ DIY SRI, DIY WAIC, VCTS Mod, Gutted Stock DP, Cobb AP, SURE TIG, KMD Internals, Denso ITV22's SURE Dreadnaught, DSS Left Rear Axle, Custom in car SSP, JBR SSP, Powered by Max Shift Knob Megan Racing Coilovers 13.7@ 96 w/1.8 60ft (SRI, AP) 13.4@ 102 w/1.9 60ft (SRI,AP,WAIC,TIG, Internals, ITV22's) ![]() | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So with the rp and e-tune (i saw few tuners at the forum) I can get better results even without hpfp? Or this is just something to check if my pump holds the pressure or not? Anyway, e-tune is few hundred bucks, right? so i would like to avoid costs for a while |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You should be running ITV22 plugs (1 step colder) on any tune with the AP, so that is your next step. The race pipe can stress your stock pump to the limits, so you *can* run it on a stage 1, just monitor the pressure during WOT. I also think you should read this completely: http://www.accessecu.com/accessport/...in%20v1.00.pdf |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You need the colder plugs with the AP per Cobbs recomendations. You can get by running the TP with stock fuel pump with a tune but you should have spent money on the FP internals first.
__________________ EBTEC Manley Built // GT3071R // FreekTuned // Freek 3.5" Intake // Ported IM // Perm Plate Dual CC // Catless DP // CNT CB // Tokay V 1's // Autotech // AEM Failsafe // TR8 IC// GFB // JBR 88 RMM // DM PMM // JBR 70 TMM // ACT 6 puck prolite fly // Cobb RSB // 6 pc chassis braced // Koni FSD's // Cobb Springs // EGR Full delete // SWAS switch // SS brake lines // 100% Methanol Injection D14 ____________________________________________Dragon Slayer _________________________________________________ |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I will quote this again today as a recommended power mod path: Blog : The modification path in a MazdaSpeed/MPS vehicle : Stratified Automotive Controls
__________________ We Engineer, and that's better than just tuning! ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Go NO further until you upgrade your HPFP.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks all! I should get one step colder plugs even if my power gains would be around 40-50whp ?? Why would AP need to change the plugs? Are the stock ones already too hot for a stock setup? Anyone tried to run AP stage one on itv20 plugs? The pressure on the rail should be above 1600psi at WOT, right? I'll probably put intake first and a tune and see how it goes. Last thing I want is a boom! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score fuel pressure at WOT needs to be over 1600psi. Get colder plugs DEF. get FP internals. I personally would wait installing the race pipe until you get internals. After all, the last thing you want is zoom zoom boom. You said it yourself. Why even risk it. last but not least, E-tunes are 100% more effective then an OTS map.
__________________ BNR s3 w/ some other stuff. Hypnotic tuned. |
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+1 STICKY please | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Forsworn71 For This Useful Post: | Lex (07-29-2012) |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So, after reading your advices and few online articles I think I'll go as follows: I'll put the intake + cobb's stage 1 maps first and play with it till hpfp upgrade. After upgrade I'll put itv22 with the test pipe and try the stage 2 maps with custom tune. Thanks guys! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Throw on the TIP while you're at it. Just sayin...
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 - Sold New: 2008 Toyota Tundra |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Then spend the $200 and get a custom tune (with Lex perhaps). That's probably your safest bet.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed 3. BNR s3, CoolingMist CMGS Meth, Damond TB Plate, JBR FMIC Undermount w/ TR8, JBR 3" Fullpath, Steedspeed EM, Cobb AP v3, Stratified Tuned, Autotech HPFP Internals, CP-e Catted Downpipe, Port and Polished IM with VTCS & Full EGR Delete, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 BAR MAP Sensor, Turbosmart Dual-port BPV, Koni Sport Yellows, Eibach Prokits, SPC Camber Arms, Cobb FSB and RSB, AWR Front Endlinks, JBR Trilogy Mounts 70a Duro, KX-F3 Full Chassis Braces, Denso Iridium ITV-22, CP-e Safe Seals, SURE TIG IM and TB, Cobb Shift Weight, TWM SS w/Bushings and Specter Hybrid knob. To be installed: SS Brake Lines. |
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This upgrade path makes it sound like downpipe/IC upgrades are only worth it after BT? | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Cost alone. That path is bang for the buck sensitive.
__________________ We Engineer, and that's better than just tuning! ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. |
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