New to Mazdaspeed6, mod help

[WooSpeed]

Hello this is my first post and just bought a Mazdaspeed6 about 2 months ago

Before the "use search" people come in, I'm just looking for basic mods and keep a nice cheap modded mazdaspeed6 and all the searching I've done hasn't answers the specific I'm looking for. I used to own a 2003 mach1 mustang but totaled it due to black ice, had $8000 in mods, RIP, so I'm not looking to go hard core on this car, in basically looking for mods were I don't have to do anything major like the HPFP.

I bought 2007 mazdaspeed6 completely stock, and so far I'm loving it l. I have done one mod and that's the JBR stage 2 ram air and turbo inlet. I'm trying to see were I max out. My next mod I was thinking was a Cobb AP canned tune, and maybe some kind of exhaust mod like a test pipe or weld in straight pipe (I own a welder). Again, just looking for the basic bag for your buck mods. Any mod that exceeds the HPFP or anything like that is to much. Just a slightly modded DD is what I'm looking for.

[Vansquish]

The HPFP is a wise thing to get, even if you're not planning on going full retard building this car.

Even with an intake and tune you can overtax the OEM HPFP. Furthermore, I wouldn't call it "major," as once you know what you're doing, the swap takes about 1/2 hour or so, and you don't have to pull much of anything off to get at it.

Also, instead of "use search," I would highly recommend using Google with "site:www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum" and then enter your search terms. (i.e. "site:www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum HPFP how to") The search function here on MSF is terrible.

[WooSpeed]

It was wishful thinking that i didn't need a HPFP so if I need to I will, what's a a good brand?

[08mzr]

Autotech internals are very popular. But there are other brand there as well.

[Vansquish]

I would recommend Autotechs over all others, simply because there are more people running them than any other brands, and they seem to have had the lowest percentage of failures.

That said, once you upgrade the HPFP internals, you're likely to eventually destroy the Fuel Rail Relief Valve (HPRV) because its crack pressure is lower than what the upgraded HPFP internals can provide, and it will be opening more frequently than it is intended to have to.

[WooSpeed]

Just to make sure everyone knows again, I'm not looking for major mods. If possible I might not even mod the exhaust. A tune is a hopeful mod I really want to get but if things are to expensive then I'm not going to do them, so fuel rail valve of needed to be replaced after the HPFP then I'm not interested in modding anymore. if I all I have is RAI and TUrbo inlet then so be it.

Is there any cheap exhaust mods (cat remove or mufflers) that won't cause extra fuel load. Just looking for an aggressive sound but not really loud, almost stock sounding while cruising but aggressive when getting on it. But still without major upgrades.

Again forgive me for being noobish with these cars. Had no idea of HPFP or rails when I bought this car. Was looking for a nice DD and it was this or a subaru legacy with a few less miles. Didn't have much time to look at anything more. Free Insurence rental was coming to an end.

[brandonnicholson]

The fuel rail valve isn't something you need to upgrade. It's one of those things that it might shit out on you but doesn't seem to happen all that often. At least in my area im pretty sure I'm the only one that had to change it out of the 30 or so people. If you go VIP you can gain access to the for sale section. From there you can get a used cobb accessport v2 for around $300 or buy one new from edgeautosport or RPM and an e-tune from one of the tuners on the forum are $200 i believe.
The speed6's are usually ok for the stock fuel pump with an intake and test pipe, as long as you dont change out the down pipe. You could also just delete a resonator and leave the cats if you're just after sound. That being said, the fuel pumps are kind of on their own. There's not a certain point where you need to change it or not, it goes when it goes which is why people recommend it be one of the first few mods. Also, check out the rear motor mount as well.

[TiGraySpeed6]

Welcome!
Always nice to have another Speed6 around!

There are two things to be aware of re: HPFP-
First, they weren't especially capable when new, and yours is now ~7 years old and correspondingly even less able to handle stress.

Second, the HPFP needs to keep up with air flow. As you're considering both intake and exhaust mods, and those both result in more air flow through the engine, then you'll be putting more stress on that old & worn HPFP to deliver more fuel.

Consider it like a tax- it's a mod you should do.

Additionally, the stock K04 turbo relies on back pressure to maintain seal integrity. By opening up the exhaust it's possible that you may start seeing smoke out the exhaust while at idle. Removing the secondary cat is often safe as the primary cat typically creates enough back pressure, but the overall theory is one you should be aware of in case the symptom rears it's head.

Picking up an AccessPort (AP) is very very highly encouraged not only for the ability to change maps but for it's ability to log, allowing you to learn about your engine health and, if needed, to share those logs here where others can review data and provide insights.

Aside from these you may want to consider some basic old age maintenance items- new fluids front to back, brakes, suspension, mounts & bushings etc. It's encouraged to get the car stable and solid, and invest some money into basic maintenance first. Once you know you're stable & safe then chase mods.

[WA_MS6]

You don't want to upgrade internals? Then just an intake. and maybe remove the mufflers for sound and slight performance, but without a moderate tune those upgrades don't do much.

[Thepedigree13]

Most of the vendors here offer great deals when you purchase the AP and Autotech Internals together. Best sub 1000 dollars you will spend on the car IMO. These two mods offer safety, the ability to monitor/tune, and WHEN you change your mind and get the itch for more power these will be beneficial.

Fuel pump isn't as difficult to get to as it may seem. I think most would agree not to mess with the exhaust without these mods.

If you just want sound hack off the resonators in the exhaust and weld straight pipe there.

[Agent_Orange]

Just keep your car stock bro.

You want to play, but you don't want to pay.

Modding is not for you.

[WooSpeed]

Originally Posted by Agent_Orange Just keep your car stock bro. You want to play, but you don't want to pay. Modding is not for you.

Can't help myself. After having built a damn quick Mach 1, and did over 20 modifications to it, The moddin bug has buried itself in my bones long ago. I have to do something, I just thought I could have don't something as simple as and intake, exhaust, and tune without having to worry about supporting mods so quickly.

I guess if I have to do a HPFP just to get my fix then I guess I have to

[coopsspeed]

Is there a such thing as slightly modding this platform, one thing always leads to another! Good luck

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by WooSpeed Any mod that exceeds the HPFP or anything like that is to much.

Just stick to rims and tint then.

[WooSpeed]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny Just stick to rims and tint then.

Not my cup of tea

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by WooSpeed Not my cup of tea

Then you had better buy the HPFP.

[frothy]

I don't see what the big deal is, especially since you already expressed an interest in purchasing a Cobb AP.

Most of the vendors here sell the AP and Autotech HPFP internals as a package deal.

-- Buy those together and save some cash (you could also go VIP and try to buy them used)
-- Gut your 2nd cat if you're trying to be cheap.

...you already have the JBR Power Path Stage 2 intake, right?

FREE Stratifed OTS map:
Stratified MazdaSpeed / Mazda MPS Off The Shelf (S-OTS) Maps [Stratified Mazda S-OTS Maps] - It's Free! : Stratified Automotive Controls

Done.

[MSP6]

You're looking at it from the wrong angle. It's not that these simple mods do so much that they blow away a stock fuel pump, it's that in the case of the speeds/MZR's the stock fuel pump kind of sucks donkey dick from the factory. If you bought your Mach 1 with 6" rear tires would you change them, or leave them because you didn't "have to" change them? There's been a few sets of used autech internals on here going for $300 or less. The only difficult thing about changing the pump is finding the wierd little torx socket you need. Aside from that, replacing the inlet tube on your intake is more of a PITA than internals.

[Ayerspeed]

If you plan on doing internals RPM is doing a tax season sale that will get you new internals at the price of most used.

[dale_gribble]

As previously stated:

google.com
site:www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum do I need internals
site:www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum first mods
site:www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum test pipe
site:www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum MS6 exhaust

read, everything you are asking has been asked 10,000 times by 10,000 n00bs before you. Your car is no different than any of the 10,000 cars prior.

[TurboSix]

Like everyone else has been saying... HPFP internals, get them. First mods I did to my car were SRI/TIP. Wasn't able to monitor my fuel pressure till a few months later when I got my AP. Luckily when I was able to monitor it the pressures were fine but then out of nowhere the pump started to not be able to keep up. You may be "ok" for now but you really should get them. Never know when they'll just give out.

A tune can definitely help open your car a bit. There's tons of great e-tuners on the site, search for them one choose one you like.

Also, you may want to look into getting a RMM. The stocker is garbage. You'll no longer feel the 1-2 shift thump of the engine

[phecker410]

Fast. Cheap. Reliable.

Pick two.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by phecker410 Fast. Cheap. Reliable. Pick two.

Well...I've spent an average of about $550/year on repairs/modifications in the 6 years that I've owned my car. That's not SUPER cheap, but given the fact that the transmission has been out of the car, and the transfer case has been out of the car, and that I've had blown struts replaced, and that the rotors were replaced and the pads have been done twice, and that I've replaced the turbo with a bigger one, I'm not convinced that this is "truly" an expensive car to have fast, cheap, and reliable.

Most of the major maintenance shit had to get done around 60k miles. The rest of it has been all on me.

I've also saved a shit-ton of gas money by having an AP. I get ~18.5% better highway fuel economy than I did stock, and ~16% better in the city. Over the last ~78k miles, that's saved me around $1600.

If you're mindful of what you're doing, there's no reason that this can't be a (relatively) cheap, fast, and reliable vehicle, especially if you buy parts used.

[CWP_MS3]

Guy basically stated he was going to be too lazy to search, and not to tell him to search.

You guys were awful nice. lol