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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So i was just driving and there was a little ridge that went across the road. Nothing major but for about a foot the road dropped like 2 maybe 3 inches. I drove over it going about 40 mph and i heard a sound that sounded like me just bottoming out. I stopped at the stop light that was just ahead. I then started forward again and i realized that the turbo wasnnt kicking in. For the rest of the drive home (5 min) the turbo did not work at all. I arrived home and turned my car off and let it sit for about 10 min. Hoping to god that maybe nothing happened i came back out and took it around the block and still, no turbo at all. Then when i got to my driveway i realized some white smoke coming out of my exhaust. As i revved it, more smoke would come out. I saw that this is a sign of a blown turbo which would make sense since my turbo isnt working. My car is stock and the only codes on it are p0012 and p0016 which have to do with the cam shaft. So is it deff a blown turbo or could it just be maybe bad seals? Also if i do have to replace my turbo, what turbo should i buy? I heard the stock ones arent very reliable so i would rather not buy the same one. Thanks |
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__________________ ![]() 99 JEEP WRANGLER SPORT 4 liter- 5 speed- RCD BILTEIN 4" lift -32X12.5" tires-Xtreme 15"x12" wheels-JET Stage 2 ECU- K&N Intake-TB Spacer -Banks Power Monster Header back exhaust-Hurst short throw shifter-Fender Flares w/ clear corners -brush guard -Fog kit-8500lbs winch -tail light guards-Sound bar 2007 Sunlight GT Crash Smash Boom ZOOM ZOOM = HTP Full Metal 3" // CS SRI FMIC // Cobb AP // Autotechs // CS TP & CBE // Stock Block // Stock Turbo // Ralco RZ Shifter // JBR 88 RMM + 80 PMM + Spherical Knob + SSP + WEIGHT + Bushings // Saiko Michi OCC // Cobb Springs // KYB FRONT & BACK // Tri-point rear links // Redline hood shocks // Gen2 VC // RICE = Rally Armor // 20% Tint All Around // Weather Tech // JDM Goodie Visors // CF Eyelids // Red/Black CF Dash Kit // Bumper Covers // Extra Sub Mod //Stuby Antenna//Red&Blue Interior L.E.D. // 50w 10 L.E.D. Cree Reverse lights ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the flowers i guess... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How the fuck would going over a bump fuck up your turbo. Check your damn couplers Sent from my SGH-I317M using Tapatalk 2
__________________ : )-~ CS 3inch intake, CS FP internals, CS Test pipe, Forge V2, AP v3, JBR 88a RMM and mud flops |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Im not saying going over the bump messed my turbo up. I was just saying when and what happened before it went. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If the turbo "went" it would take a lot more than the turbo with it.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Black Mica w/ Tech Package - Traded In 2014 Ford F150 FX4 Ecoboost - Current |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Lol the turbo didnt fall out of my car.... It just isnt producing any boost.. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i think step one here should be to see if you can figure out why its not making boost. I don't want this to sound mean. however it doesn't sound like you know a lot about your car. it might be better in the long run to have a shop professionally diagnose your problem. again i do not mean disrespect. Check codes also. If your producing absolutely NO boost there should be a check engine light |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The cel is on for the other codes and i checked the codes again to see if anything else came up but the only codes are the 2 i mentioned.. p0012 and p0016 which have to do with the cam shaft timing. None that have to do with the turbo. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Do you have any type of boost gauge to actually check PSI? or are you just going off of your butt dyno? |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score No i dont have a boost gauge. I mean i drove the car with normal boost so i know how it should pull thats all im going off of. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 1. Donate 2. Put mods in signature 3.Use google search option in search tab 4.Even when my seals went on my SAABs gt25 I made boost and Powa just smoked out the arse.
__________________ ![]() 99 JEEP WRANGLER SPORT 4 liter- 5 speed- RCD BILTEIN 4" lift -32X12.5" tires-Xtreme 15"x12" wheels-JET Stage 2 ECU- K&N Intake-TB Spacer -Banks Power Monster Header back exhaust-Hurst short throw shifter-Fender Flares w/ clear corners -brush guard -Fog kit-8500lbs winch -tail light guards-Sound bar 2007 Sunlight GT Crash Smash Boom ZOOM ZOOM = HTP Full Metal 3" // CS SRI FMIC // Cobb AP // Autotechs // CS TP & CBE // Stock Block // Stock Turbo // Ralco RZ Shifter // JBR 88 RMM + 80 PMM + Spherical Knob + SSP + WEIGHT + Bushings // Saiko Michi OCC // Cobb Springs // KYB FRONT & BACK // Tri-point rear links // Redline hood shocks // Gen2 VC // RICE = Rally Armor // 20% Tint All Around // Weather Tech // JDM Goodie Visors // CF Eyelids // Red/Black CF Dash Kit // Bumper Covers // Extra Sub Mod //Stuby Antenna//Red&Blue Interior L.E.D. // 50w 10 L.E.D. Cree Reverse lights ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Do you have an AP to monitor PSI? If none of these options are available, your best bet will be to have a shop look at the car for you. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Can you monitor boost through the codes reader? I have an actron autoscanner plus. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score no sorry that is most likely just a code reader. Id love to help you out more but we are just lacking alot of necessary information. sorry |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah i wish i could monitor boost.. that would really help. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score At this point, your best bet is probably to have your car serviced by a mecanical shop. Buying and installing the needed tool to diagnose it, and learn how to figure it out may be a long journey for you while a quick garage inspection can make it... Stock Turbo seals on the speed are often leaking but this isn't the answer of you issue, usually a turbo wouldn't stop working when leaking oil. the efficiency will be slowly reduced till it die but won't stop working suddenly... It is more looking for a coupling issue/WG etc...
__________________ Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better... 2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress... 1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB 2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts 1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup Wife drive 2010 CX7 2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it) ...Because French Canadian... If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks.... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thats what i was thinking.. possibly one of them came loose or something happened when i hit the ridge. Thanks for your help Would that still cause the white smoke out the exhaust though? Last edited by Zmcg1995; 02-04-2014 at 11:53 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Engineered Tuning ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sounds like something came loose or broke during the impact. I would suggest poking your head under the car but if you don't know what to look for it's best to have someone else diagnose the issue.
__________________ We Engineer, and that's better than just tuning! ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks. im taking my car into a shop tomorrow. Hopefully its nothing major. Thanks for all the replies |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Don't forget to let us know what Whas up
__________________ : )-~ CS 3inch intake, CS FP internals, CS Test pipe, Forge V2, AP v3, JBR 88a RMM and mud flops |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Probably won't be major. If the quote comes back with major work required, you may want to share their diagnosis with us to see if they are pulling your leg.
__________________ 2006 MS6 WWP Sport - 340whp/350wtq JBR 3"- BNRS3V2 - GS EBCS - CUSTOM FMIC - CS IM - LTR7IX - CMGS WMI & D07 GA - TURBOXS HEADER - FIDANZA FW - CP-E CATTED DP - 3" CATBACK BILSTEIN - H&R SPRINGS - 18x8.5 +48 ROTA SVN - 265/35R18 HTR ZIII MINI H1 6.0 - CAR LED TAILS SEE MORE USING !SHOUTTAG.COM - ENTER: !6SPEED6 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Got major snow yesterday so the shop was closed but hopefully ill get a call from them sometime today. Will let you know what they say. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So i just put the new corksport TIP and took it out and still doesnt pull like it used too. Turbo kicks in at about 3k rpms and not hard just smoothly kicks in. Did a boost leak test and didnt seem to find or hear anything. Any ideas of what the problem could be? |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Dont have boost gauge either... when should the turbo kick in? It used to kick in at around 2.5k rpm and now its 3+k and not as strong |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Check all your connections. You really need to get something to monitor your vehicle in realtime at least, or something to log. The Torque app in Google Play works well enough.
__________________ JBR 3.5" whale penis intake, HTP polished battery tray, PnP stock intake manifold w/VCTS delete (by Kmac), Corksport TMIC, Forge V2 BPV, JBR TIG's, Kozmic EGR delete, Cobb AP, PTP HPFP internals, stock TBE w/gutted cats, JBR RMM, SU PMM and TMM, Koni Yellow Sport struts, Swift springs, Tri Point Engineering RSB, Whiteline Anti Lift Kit, PTP Injector Seals, GenPu transmission, Fidanza flywheel, 3 BAR MAP sensor, Posifab 10.5:1 CR 88mm sexy pistons, Molnar rods, sleeved block, PTP BSD SnailTune in progress |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score U really should stop trying to see if it works without doing anything. And u installed a tip but didnt bother to look around for loose hoses or couplers? Sounds like ur car is telling u something but ur just not getting the hint For the sack of ur motor stop flooring it and drive easy till someone looks at it
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned Last edited by blackms3_71; 02-16-2014 at 05:09 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Lol i did everything you just listed. I checked just about every hose and coupler... i did a boost leak test.. thats why i asked what others thought |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Check to see if the waste gate arm is still attached to the flapper... I had this happen to me once Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry but im not sure where to look... what does that look like and can i see it from just looking under the hood? |
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But if you look from the left hand side along the dp towards the turbo, you might be able to see this: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru....php?p=1715057 Can see the bit sticking out? That's not supposed to be there. The waste gate arm is supposed to be connected to it. In this instance, it moved freely (bad) This isn't our turbo, but hopefully it gives you an idea as to how it should be: Can see the rod is attached to a "flapper" mine fell off ![]() Also, might be a silly comment... But only stick your hand down there if you know it's cold :p
__________________ OLD: GT3071 IWG | Autotech HPFP | Cobb AP | tune | Catted DP |HDi FMIC | CPE 4" TIP + 3.25" MAF | Grimmspeed EBCS | RX8 S2 Rims | JBR 80a Trilogy | Forge V2 BPVNEW: HTP full 3" | catted DP | Autotech HPFP | COBB AP | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score you said the shop was closed for the snow? Did you reschedule your appt.? sounds like you still need to get this checked out by a professional. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah i cant seem to see that... i can see the wastegate actuator but cant see the arm on the other end of the rod |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I can feel it with my hand and it seems to be perfectly fine and connected. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you don't have the funds for an ap either get the torque app, or get an ultra gauge it's cheap but shows boost.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Idk what to check... checked all the tubes and clamps.. did a boost leak test and didnt hear or see any leaks... runs fine just doesnt pull hard at all.. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Also while i had my TIP off i could see the turbo wheel and it had a little play in it... should it move at all up and down? Is that normal/okay? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score And without any datalogs there's really nothing we can do. I'm guessing you have a hose disconnected somewhere or a crack on the EBCS nipple from where you disconnected/reattached the hose to the TIP. Or even the hose from the IM to the BPV.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I need someone around philly to come help me out lol i did a boost leak test though and didnt seem to find anything leaking or cracked Last edited by Zmcg1995; 02-16-2014 at 09:12 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What did you use to check for leaks? Soapy water? Where did you check? Also what PSI did you set the air compressor to? Where did you attach the boost leak tester to?
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