a newb with newb questions

[viper1891]

whats up everybody! i have been a proud owner of a 2008 ms3 for about 4 months now and im thinking about putting some more goodies into the engine. currently i have a short ram intake, 2 resignators taken off the exhaust and a cobb stage 1 one tune. i love it! but im thinking about getting a dp and an inlet hose. im probably going to get the cobb inlet hose but im not sure what to do about the dp. i was looking at the ones on ebay and for 170$ it doesnt look like a bad deal. anyone have any input for me? im open to anything! thanks everyone!

[Dmurray06]

Get fuel pump internals before you get a downpipe or you will blow your engine sky high.

[viper1891]

Originally Posted by Dmurray06 Get fuel pump internals before you get a downpipe or you will blow your engine sky high.

any suggestions on a fuel pump?

[Ms3_Miami]

Originally Posted by viper1891 any suggestions on a fuel pump?

you really won't blow ur engine ..it's not recomended but you will have to be monitoring your FP pressure with your AP.. I have been running a dp with the stock FP internals for months and my fp pressure is well above 1600psi at wot.

Just get some internals autotech,kmd or ptp for peace of mind. And @IshiKage has an ebay dp and its holding up great so go for it.

[KILLER_VIZ]

Originally Posted by viper1891 any suggestions on a fuel pump?

Go here then hit up eric@edgeautosports.com

Mazdaspeed 3 - 2007-2009 Gen1 - Engine - Fuel - EdgeAutosport.com


Oh and donate so you can go to the VIP for sale section.

[Navy_Mech2]

auto tech or PTP seems to be the norm for most.

edit: sonofabitch im a brownie again...time to donate lol

[MSpeed34]

kmd or at internals!

[Navy_Mech2]

eventually your pump will not hold pressure. i have ~66k on my car and about 40k running with an intake, TIP, cattless dp, exhaust, and an ap and mine started to show signs of wear right before i went on deployment. when i first punch it, pressure dips down to like 11-1200 and then comes back up to my target pressure.

in conclusion: your shit will not explode immediately but eventually it will start to go.

[Ms3_Miami]

Originally Posted by Navy_Mech2 eventually your pump will not hold pressure. i have ~66k on my car and about 40k running with an intake, TIP, cattless dp, exhaust, and an ap and mine started to show signs of wear right before i went on deployment. when i first punch it, pressure dips down to like 11-1200 and then comes back up to my target pressure. in conclusion: your shit will not explode immediately but eventually it will start to go.

damm thats bad and yea thats what I meant that you will eventually start to see lower pressure.I have 40k miles on mine and I bought the car with the DP already so I had no choice.Anyways the only time mine dip is in the winter, lowest I seen is mid 1500.

[KILLER_VIZ]

The FP in our engines are cam driven( connected to the internal motor) if they get to bad they can cause your engine to seize. Just get them to be on the safe side man.

[HPFPUPGRADE]

Originally Posted by KILLER_VIZ The FP in our engines are cam driven( connected to the internal motor) if they get to bad they can cause your engine to seize. Just get them to be on the safe side man.

I don't think there has been a recorded case of engine failure due to sized fuel pump internals (well from them sizing (sp)). There have been some damaged cam lobes but thats about it.

Agreed, get a fuel pump or fuel pump internals to be on the safe side.

[Nitr0EngiE]

Originally Posted by HPFPUPGRADE I don't think there has been a recorded case of engine failure due to sized fuel pump internals (well from them sizing (sp)). There have been some damaged cam lobes but thats about it. Agreed, get a fuel pump or fuel pump internals to be on the safe side.

my first engine blew up WOT and i never found out why until i went to stock out and found my KMD v2 seized and scored badly inside my pump causing lean condition WOT, they were stuck and i could not even remove them. (failed after about 8k miles)

and also when i rebuilt car i forgot cam follower and pump locked up intake cam and snapped vvt and bent valves.

[HPFPUPGRADE]

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE my first engine blew up WOT and i never found out why until i went to stock out and found my KMD v2 seized and scored badly inside my pump causing lean condition WOT, they were stuck and i could not even remove them. (failed after about 8k miles) and also when i rebuilt car i forgot cam follower and pump locked up intake cam and snapped vvt and bent valves.

The fuel pump failing and causing a lean condition, yes. Them seizing and locking up the engine, um no, LOL.

I could see the potential for major damage if you forgot to put the cam follower inside the housing, but that is a different story.

Now, I am not saying that its impossible for the fuel pump to cause a huge mechanical issue with the engine... just saying that I have not seen it yet.

[viper1891]

i see what you guys are saying, and yeah i will probably upgrade the fp before anything, specially if i want to do a higher tune with my cobb

[IshiKage]

nothing is going to explode. if the motor doesnt blow off 50psi of fp then its not off 11-1200. just use common sense and dont go wot until you can get pump internals

@Ms3_Miami

once you install pump internals on stock tune you will see how much power you were missing out on b.c of inadequate fuel

[Ms3_Miami]

Originally Posted by IshiKage nothing is going to explode. if the motor doesnt blow off 50psi of fp then its not off 11-1200. just use common sense and dont go wot until you can get pump internals @Ms3_Miami once you install pump internals on stock tune you will see how much power you were missing out on b.c of inadequate fuel

yea my friend installed them and im so jelly lol there coming as soon as my tax money comes in. btw im buying the htp tip from ebay shit lookks good in wrinkle black

[ColonR]

but once you do the fpi the ebay downpipe is dope as fuck! haha of course its the easiest option if your running a catless dp because its just a piece of metal and spending the least is always best and it still has good build quality however if you wanna go catted id so go with a well known company like atp, cp-e etc since i dont know how the quality of the cats are on the ebay pipes. but catless ebay=ftw

[viper1891]

catless dp i think it is . anyone know what a respectable shop would charge (estimate) to put in the fpi?

[ColonR]

Check with your local Nator group they might be able to help you and you wouldn't have to pay a mechanic otherwise it takes about an hour to an hour abd a half to do.

[Nitr0EngiE]

yah i was just pointing out my user error on rebuilding engine causing MAJOR full fail and then the Failure equipment i purchased and had fail on me causing Boom they just just scenarios not related in the fassion your discussing but still good to know to avoid =)

When i blew up my stock motor i was on 20 psi 3076r on my current turbo setup and it was perfectly tuned for months i had quit logging and monitoring and was DD and on way home from work i went WOT in like 3rd gear it sputtered a bit and boom, another lesson always watch and log and buy afr gauge ...