The Official Downpipe/Test Pipe/Race Pipe Thread

[mikede5]

Originally Posted by speedre Anyone have any dyno results showing gains with the Cobb dp? I'm deciding between Cobb and Corksport, I know the hp difference won't be much but I can't find any numbers on the Cobb one. Their website shows a graph but hp numbers aren't on it.

I never did a dyno run for my cobb dp, but I ran a log before and after and got a 7-9 g/s gain which I found to be about 17-20hp. It really depends on the car and the mods you have on it. Just go with what pipe you like is your best bet.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[speedre]

cool thanks for the info mikede, can't wait to install it

Originally Posted by mikede5 I never did a dyno run for my cobb dp, but I ran a log before and after and got a 7-9 g/s gain which I found to be about 17-20hp. It really depends on the car and the mods you have on it. Just go with what pipe you like is your best bet. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[evolizzee]

Are there any benefits from goin to an M2 catless DP from a Cobb DP with a high flow cat?

[TiGraySpeed6]

If you've been fighting overspool issues or smoking issues with the K04, or if you live in a state with inspections, adding the cat in may help by providing some back pressure or for inspections.

Adding a cat can also help remove the fuel smell from your exhaust if that's in issue for you.

Oh, and tree hugger.

If none of those points are relevant to your needs, I'd consider the budget better applied elsewhere.

[spdandpwr]

I hear that our turbos require backpressure to prevent messing with the seals. My question is, can if I upgrade to a high flow cat setup, which core do I go with? i want whichever provides the best performance under high heat loads. I've seen highflow cats melt and I don't want that on my car, lol.

[Esteban123toro]

ive been looking everywhere reviews from the dnp turbo manifold... what you guys think?

[captain slow]

Originally Posted by Esteban123toro ive been looking everywhere reviews from the dnp turbo manifold... what you guys think?

This thread is for down pipes, not exhaust manifolds. Take your question elsewhere, there's plenty of people with reviews/comments on the DNP manifold.

[Koke382]

Originally Posted by captain slow This thread is for down pipes, not exhaust manifolds. Take your question elsewhere, there's plenty of people with reviews/comments on the DNP manifold.

Every time I read your post I read it in captain slows voice.

sent from my peepee

[Remichell]

Ok im noob but i read the entire thread, but didn't find an answer to my question and since this is the DP thread i assume its here where it need to be ask. There are no options out there for a DP meant for a top mount turbo other than custom?? Just want to know if there is or was a company that make or made them. I read in another build thread where they were using top mount manifold but they just mention they adapt a downpipe from another kit or something, just though it was gonna be mention here.

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by Remichell Ok im noob but i read the entire thread, but didn't find an answer to my question and since this is the DP thread i assume its here where it need to be ask. There are no options out there for a DP meant for a top mount turbo other than custom?? Just want to know if there is or was a company that make or made them. I read in another build thread where they were using top mount manifold but they just mention they adapt a downpipe from another kit or something, just though it was gonna be mention here.

You are correct and the reason is their are too many variables as far as turbo/manifold location for a downpipe to be mass produced like that.

[Remichell]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 You are correct and the reason is their are too many variables as far as turbo/manifold location for a downpipe to be mass produced like that.

Yeah i kind of figure it out after reading a lot of treads... But i found out in this thread that there is a person on the forum that sell the downpipe for the top mount with, Intake, Custom Oil Lines, & Screamer Pipe that goes for the name of Dustin. Can some one tell me how can i contact him so i can get a quote from him for the package, so later on when i have everything else just buy that form him. Thanks

[jreiden1]

Permtuning.com is his website but his focus I believe are on other things right now. And he has a full time job! So you can try there who knows, he might!

[jeopardy98]

Originally Posted by Remichell Yeah i kind of figure it out after reading a lot of treads... But i found out in this thread that there is a person on the forum that sell the downpipe for the top mount with, Intake, Custom Oil Lines, & Screamer Pipe that goes for the name of Dustin. Can some one tell me how can i contact him so i can get a quote from him for the package, so later on when i have everything else just buy that form him. Thanks

@djuosnteisn;

[mlamp89]

Mother of God...I've got the stock down pipe removed but just sitting down in the engine bay. What's the easiest way t up get the stupid thing up and out. I'd prefer to remove as few parts as possible....

[TiGraySpeed6]

Pull RMM and rock engine forward while lifting the DP up & out.

It takes a few tries to get the angle right, but when you do it will lift right out. Also, if you haven't already, separate the lower section and drop it out the bottom so you're only pulling up the primary cat section.

Once the stocker is out you can put the RMM back- the aftermarket DP has plenty of room to go in easy as can be.

[TiGraySpeed6]

DP install instructions from CPE, but the technique to remove the stock DP will apply to any

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 Pull RMM and rock engine forward while lifting the DP up & out. It takes a few tries to get the angle right, but when you do it will lift right out. Also, if you haven't already, separate the lower section and drop it out the bottom so you're only pulling up the primary cat section. Once the stocker is out you can put the RMM back- the aftermarket DP has plenty of room to go in easy as can be.

Thanks. I got the lower part out. But it's the upper part that's making me rethink ever upgrading anything again.

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 Pull RMM and rock engine forward while lifting the DP up & out. It takes a few tries to get the angle right, but when you do it will lift right out. Also, if you haven't already, separate the lower section and drop it out the bottom so you're only pulling up the primary cat section. Once the stocker is out you can put the RMM back- the aftermarket DP has plenty of room to go in easy as can be.

Got the rear motor mount out. Put the Jack next to the mount and started lifting. Got to the point that the car itself was also lifting. Still can't wiggle the dp out. What's the special angle? I've tried spinning, pulling cursing and yanking. It's still really tight with the alternator and turbo and exhaust manifold.

[TiGraySpeed6]

grab the cpe guide I posted & have a look at the stock dp removal steps-

That's the process I used to remove mine as well- I'd forgotten, but need to have jack under the engine with block of wood to support the oil pan, then remove the connection to the PMM, then you can shift the engine as needed.

[dale_gribble]

Don't jack the motor up, lower it for clearance to get the upper piece out. Remove the PMM top section, remove the RMM, use a jack to carefully drop the motor down to get the clearance you need. I just did it this weekend.

[MSMS3]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Don't jack the motor up, lower it for clearance to get the upper piece out. Remove the PMM top section, remove the RMM, use a jack to carefully drop the motor down to get the clearance you need. I just did it this weekend.

^ This.

LOWER the motor, not raise it. Lowering the motor will make more room.

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 grab the cpe guide I posted & have a look at the stock dp removal steps- That's the process I used to remove mine as well- I'd forgotten, but need to have jack under the engine with block of wood to support the oil pan, then remove the connection to the PMM, then you can shift the engine as needed.

Good Lord....Finally got it out. I had to cut the heat shield off.(rusted and stuck screws) I've got the motor mounts back on and now working on getting bolts from the down pipe flange to the turbo all tightened. But there's one that a socket can't get on. So it'll be interesting. Thanks for your help!

[jeopardy98]

That one you can't get a socket on requires a wobble extension and a swivel socket plus a narrow ratchet. You can get a socket on it but you need the right combination.

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by jeopardy98 That one you can't get a socket on requires a wobble extension and a swivel socket plus a narrow ratchet. You can get a socket on it but you need the right combination.

Thanks. I have a swivel socket. But I don't think i have a wobble extension. and I dont know if my ratchet is narrow enough. I guess I will try. need attachments for my attachments..

[Sandman88]

very good, informative thread. I'm having the problems mentioned in this thread. got a downpipe and my CEL came on. maaad backfire. was running too lean. so I re-installed my stock recirc BOV. I had a VTA BOV installed. helped out a little. guess I gotta get an O2 sensor extender.

[MSMS3]

Putting the stock BPV back on is an excellent beginning. It works extremely well until you get well above 20 psi which is not going to happen on the stock turbo on pump gas.

What downpipe did you get? If it hasa raised sensor bung, adding an extender will probably not help and could make matters worse. If no raised bung, then try the extender. I only get a CEL a couple times per year, usually with a cold snap in late fall and on the first warm day in the spring. I just clear the light and roll on.

[Sandman88]

Originally Posted by MSMS3 Putting the stock BPV back on is an excellent beginning. It works extremely well until you get well above 20 psi which is not going to happen on the stock turbo on pump gas. What downpipe did you get? If it hasa raised sensor bung, adding an extender will probably not help and could make matters worse. If no raised bung, then try the extender. I only get a CEL a couple times per year, usually with a cold snap in late fall and on the first warm day in the spring. I just clear the light and roll on.

I'm thinking of getting a recirc BOV eventually. I believe it's an ATP downpipe. and it did have an extended sensor bung which I assumed was a built-in O2 sensor extender.

[MSMS3]

Great. Run like you are. Clear the light. It may stay off a long time and is easily cleared with most cheap cel readers. I assume you have some sort of tuning device to safely run a downpipe. That device will clear codes. And I assume you have upgraded your fuel pump internals to handle the extra flow demands. What other mods do you have? Sounds like you may need to do more reading and study before you go zoom, zoom, boom.

Why a "recirc BOV"? There is no such thing. If it recirculates, by definition it is a BPV. Changing to a different one will not improve performance. If you just want to make noise, get a duck call or make armpit fart sounds. If you simply want to know that the valve is releasing, the stock valve is plenty loud enough to hear inside the car, even if you have the windows up if you have an SRI or CAI intake, which I assume if you are running a downpipe. Running vent to air on stock tune is a really stupid idea, and generally not desirable on this engine on any tune. Your MAF sensor has "read" that air and matched the fuel to go with it. If you then far that air to atmosphere, the engine runs rich, not lean during that event. It afterfires during shifts, stumbles and generally runs crappy at idle.

[Sandman88]

Originally Posted by MSMS3 Great. Run like you are. Clear the light. It may stay off a long time and is easily cleared with most cheap cel readers. I assume you have some sort of tuning device to safely run a downpipe. That device will clear codes. And I assume you have upgraded your fuel pump internals to handle the extra flow demands. What other mods do you have? Sounds like you may need to do more reading and study before you go zoom, zoom, boom. Why a "recirc BOV"? There is no such thing. If it recirculates, by definition it is a BPV. Changing to a different one will not improve performance. If you just want to make noise, get a duck call or make armpit fart sounds. If you simply want to know that the valve is releasing, the stock valve is plenty loud enough to hear inside the car, even if you have the windows up if you have an SRI or CAI intake, which I assume if you are running a downpipe. Running vent to air on stock tune is a really stupid idea, and generally not desirable on this engine on any tune. Your MAF sensor has "read" that air and matched the fuel to go with it. If you then far that air to atmosphere, the engine runs rich, not lean during that event. It afterfires during shifts, stumbles and generally runs crappy at idle.

I don't have any tuning device yet. I would love a COBB Access Port but it's too expensive for me right now. I haven't gotten fuel pump internals yet. I was under the impression that BOVs are recirc and BPVs are VTA. I found a recirc BOV made by HKS. I do love the sounds they make but I've heard that they somewhat improve performance too. My stock BOV makes slight, barely noticeable blowoff sounds. I just realized before I signed up on this forum that it's not good to run VTA with such a stock car. And when my friend scanned my car, the device said it was running lean. I'm getting so many different opinions from so many people so that's why I registered on this forum. Not only did I want to meet other Mazdaspeed enthusiasts like myself, but I wanted to learn about my car with the best information I can get.

[MSMS3]

Welcome. You have much to learn, Grasshopper. You are in the right place, but starting off the wrong way. Please begin reading the stickies in the threads related to engine, forced induction and tuning. It's all here. Nobody is going to spoon feed you and you will get flamed for asking stupid shit or making stupid comments on things that have been the subject of multiple threads. So, search before posting.

Running an aftermarket downpipe on the stock fuel pump and stock tune is asking for trouble. I'll bet you don't even have a boost gauge, let alone any monitoring software. The downpipe alone will cause the ECU to raise boost by about 2 psi. It is running VTA that causes you to run rich during shifts and causing unburned fuel to ignite in your exhaust. That's afterfire, NOT backfire which is on the intake side. And yes, your understanding of BPV and BOV is backward. You need a recirc tube in place. Did you even plug the intake port for that tube when trying to run VTA?

I asked about other mods. You may be fucked up there. Improper intake choice or setup could produce a lean condition. Maybe we should take this to PM and not hijack this downpipe thread further. So much newbie fail, so much to learn.

[jeopardy98]

I would highly suggesting removing that dp until you upgrade your fuel pump internals and even then without some kind of monitoring you are playing with fire. MSMS3 have given you good advice. You have a lot to learn and days worth of reading.

[jk_ms3]

Originally Posted by Sandman88 I haven't gotten fuel pump internals yet.

This is not good! I appreciate your willingness to learn, so here's lesson #1 : don't run a dp without internals. Swap that dp out, or at least stay out of boost. Then get an AP and internals ASAP. It's way cheaper to get them now than if your car goes zzb.

You're welcome.

[speed34win]

Hey does anyone know of a company or someone that sells or can make me an adapter for a v-band turbo to stock 5 bolt downpipe??

[theurgy]

Maybe:
http://www.mazdaspeedstore.com/mazda...ed6-p-353.html

[speed34win]

No that's for stock turbo to v band I need the other way

[chuckms6]

Originally Posted by speed34win No that's for stock turbo to v band I need the other way

just get a vband downpipe

[2012FailWheelDrive]

Originally Posted by chuckms6 just get a vband downpipe

Any idea where? I am looking for a vband downpipe at the moment and local shops want an arm and leg haha.

[nortigid]

Long Downpipe for Mazdaspeed3 : atpturbo.com

ATP sells one (DP) with an optional vband. You can also find vband to 5-bolt adapters all over ebay. I did only see ones for GT2x turbos, but I really didn't dig that deep.

[theurgy]

Even if you don't find any of the adapter, you can always buy the flanges separately and get a custom shop to weld it up for you.
Might afford you some flexibility for placement and such.

[chuckms6]

Originally Posted by 2012FailWheelDrive Any idea where? I am looking for a vband downpipe at the moment and local shops want an arm and leg haha.

the $140 ebay downpipes are all 3" v band