The Official Downpipe/Test Pipe/Race Pipe Thread

[sidekick]

Originally Posted by afronese1 Where's the optimum position for the hi-flow cat? I was thinking of doing it the way cpe has its catted dp for ms6.

Putting it to close to the turbo outlet can cause premature failure, so the further back you can fit it, the better. IIRC, some people have had issues with the CP-E cats failing, most likely due to heat.

[bguild]

Guys, I read this entire effin thread and there is one thing I need to confirm. Is the ATP downpipe for my MS6 I bought here

ATP Turbo 3-inch Downpipe for Mazdaspeed 6 #ATP-MS6-001 - Revolution Performance Motorsports!

a full length downpipe?

I noticed page 1 said ATP doesn't make a top/bottom section so I am assuming this is a full downpipe and will hook right up to the Magnaflow catback, correct?

[El Beaner]

Originally Posted by bguild Guys, I read this entire effin thread and there is one thing I need to confirm. Is the ATP downpipe for my MS6 I bought here ATP Turbo 3-inch Downpipe for Mazdaspeed 6 #ATP-MS6-001 - Revolution Performance Motorsports! a full length downpipe? I noticed page 1 said ATP doesn't make a top/bottom section so I am assuming this is a full downpipe and will hook right up to the Magnaflow catback, correct?

The picture alone looks like a long/Full dp. If you go look at the ones that are just the dp they are much shorter / smaller

[6ixof1]

Originally Posted by bguild Guys, I read this entire effin thread and there is one thing I need to confirm. Is the ATP downpipe for my MS6 I bought here ATP Turbo 3-inch Downpipe for Mazdaspeed 6 #ATP-MS6-001 - Revolution Performance Motorsports! a full length downpipe? I noticed page 1 said ATP doesn't make a top/bottom section so I am assuming this is a full downpipe and will hook right up to the Magnaflow catback, correct?

I got my finger on the trigger for this DP... It's just the install...

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by 6ixof1 I got my finger on the trigger for this DP... It's just the install...

What about the install?

sent while failing

[Zoobie13]

So the 2007 ms3 have the faulty turbo seals so does that mean it will cause a smoking turbo for everyone? Or has anyone successfully added dp successfully to the 07?

[TheBunk]

Originally Posted by Zoobie13 So the 2007 ms3 have the faulty turbo seals so does that mean it will cause a smoking turbo for everyone? Or has anyone successfully added dp successfully to the 07?

I've had my M2 downpipe for almost a year now with no smoke except for at WOT. stock turbo 2007 ms3

[bguild]

I installed the ATP downpipe on my MazdaSpeed6. Make no mistake, it's a bitch of a job. I followed the corksport instructions which require unbolting most of the top of the engine, the motor mounts, etc. Fun times.

Unfortunately, in my case, almost every bolt was rusted and I needed a bunch of new bolts including downpipe to turbo bolts, and some new heat shields.

Question for ATP downpipe owners: is your primary O2 like a single millimeter away from the turbo housing once installed? I am so worried that it is too close and will rub. I will try to send a picture tomorrow.

Thanks.

[Dark Lightning]

Originally Posted by bguild Question for ATP downpipe owners: is your primary O2 like a single millimeter away from the turbo housing once installed? I am so worried that it is too close and will rub.

Yes. Might be two millimeters.

[maas173]

I bought a 3 inch catless downpipe without the test pipe with it..will this connect to the stock cbe or am I going to need an adapter to get it down to 2.5 inches so it will connect with the stock midpipe??

[theurgy]

Depends, which downpipe did you get?

[Zoobie13]

Question, would the gen 2 cs dp + rp fit gen 1s?

[Shampu]

Did you read the first post?
Look for some giant red text in caps and you will find your answer

[Zoobie13]

Originally Posted by Shampu Did you read the first post? Look for some giant red text in caps and you will find your answer

Hahah shat my bad I read it a couple times but skimmed it. Thanks for the smack in the head lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[thuglife2334]

so i have notice that theres not alot of talk about the speed6 Corksport dp . i take it there not any good. i was planning on getting one with a cat. but i am not seeing to many ppl running them. why is that. just looking for a little insight.

[trdaltezza]

Thanks for that little nugget about the o2 bung extension...Now Im thinking catless downpipe, since I know I can get past the CEL's

[570msp]

Noob here with a MS6 and I'm still trying to learn this car. Came from a MSP so it's pretty different, anyways... Anyone have any good power gains with a specific short DP that keeps the second cat? I'd like the keep the second cat for back pressure because I'm worried about the infamous smoking turbo problem and would want to keep a cat to help with the issue.

PS I already have HPFP internals and AP with idle turned up.
Thanks for the advice in advance

[Inquisitive]

You should take care of the HPFP limitations before considering the removal of a cat or going completely cat-less.

The DP is the most restrictive section of your exhaust system. The bell housing is so crimped; it is hard to imagine the waste-gate having enough room to open. It contains cat-1, which is heavy, but not as heavy as cat-2. If required for emissions control, if you do not have the software to cancel the CEL (in AP un-tick codes: P0038 and P0420 (if rear spark plug de-fouler does not work)) or if you are allowed to disable two codes only for emissions testing, you will need a fast cat with following oxygen sensor bung for the second sensor. A DP provides faster turbo response times and power gains across the rev range. The transition from decelerating to accelerating is much smoother. The engine just seems to breathe easier, probably due to the increased VE.

Divorce pipes reduce the turbulence caused by the opening and closing of the waste-gate. Also, the nature of bell housing designs creates turbulence as the chamber is expanded to cater for the turbo outlet and waste-gate. Having dedicated pipes respectively allows for same size pipes and thus, a smoother flow. By joining further down, they help to speed up the extraction resulting in faster opening of the waste-gate.

Descending Genpu purchased popularity order:

DownPipe (DP) and Full / Long DP

• UR DP
• Corksport DP
• CP-E DP & Long DP
• Cobb DP
• ATP Long DP
• eBay DP
• CNT Long DP
• M2 Long DP
• Gutted DP
• Kozmic DP
• Speed Daddy DP
• M2 DP
• TurboXS DP
• Full Race DP
• XForce DP
• AQ Motorsports Long DP
• QAS Long DP
• CES Racing Long DP
• Protuning Lab DP
• Best Mufflers DP
• Magnaflow DP

Test / Race / Track Pipe (cat-less) (TP / RP)

• Ultimate Racing (UR)
• CorkSport (CS)
• OBX
• CP-E
• TurboXS
• Street Unit (See Warning)
• Sure (See Warning)
• Cobb

2015 prices and availability:

First Section of Pipe Post Turbo

DownPipe (DP) and Full / Long DP
Test / Race / Track Pipe (cat-less) (TP / RP)

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

DownPipe (DP) and Full / Long DP

3” Ultimate Racing (UR) DP

Available from: 3” Ultimate Racing (UR) DP
MS6 (Not found), MS3 Gen1 (Yes), MS3 Gen2 (Yes) cat-less Version 1 $295, cat-less Version 2 $345, Long DP Ceramic Cat $395, Long DP Metal Substrate Cat $445, extra wideband bung $25)

Corksport (CS) DP
MS6 DP

MS6 Long DP

MS3 DP

MS3 Long DP

Available from:
MS6
CS 6 DP
MS3
CS 3 DP
MS6 (Yes: cat-less $349.99, +$281 for cat (long DP)), MS3 Gen1 (Yes) $299.99 + $281 for cat (long DP) with 65mm or 80mm option, MS3 Gen2 (Yes) $299.99 + $281 for cat (long DP) with 65mm or 80mm option

CP-E Long DP
MS6

MS3

Available from:
MS6
http://cp-e.com/webstore/product/maz...kspl-downpipe/ / MS6 long catted
MS3
http://cp-e.com/webstore/product/maz...kspl-downpipe/ / MS3 long catted
MS6 (Yes, catted) $621.40, MS3 Gen1 (Yes, catted) $504.40, MS3 Gen2 (Yes, catted) $504.40

Cobb Long DP

Available from: Mazdaspeed3 SS 3" Downpipe with High Flow Cat / Long catted MS3 Gen 1&2
MS6 (Not found), MS3 Gen1 (Yes, catted) $695, MS3 Gen2 (Yes, catted) $695

ATP DP
MS6 Long DP

MS3 Long DP

MS3 DP

Available from:
MS6 Long DP MS6 ATP Long DP
MS3 Long DP MS3 ATP Long DP
Much less popular: ATP DP MS3 ATP DP
MS6 (Yes, V-band) $439 + Mazda 5-bolt to V-band $95, MS3 Gen1 (Yes), MS3 Gen2 (Yes) cat-less, no donut, 3”, Long DP $299, DP $259

CNT Long DP
MS3 cat-less

MS3 catted

Available from: CNT Long DP
MS6 (Not found), MS3 Gen1 (Yes), MS3 Gen2 (Yes) 76mm cat-less $259, catted $399

M2 Long DP
MS6

MS3

Available from:
MS6

MS6 long cat-less

MS6 long cat-less
MS6 long cat-less

[Raider]

Dude, you are kicking ass at the refresh!

All this update needs is more pics of products, and links. A lot do not work (oddly, it is the ones with no pics. Keep revising, and once ready, I will update it.

Good to see that South Africa is doing good on MSF these days!

[Inquisitive]

^^ Hey, thanks man - imagine what I could do with a faster line. I keep having to reload images, get timed out... So, I save often.

Today's Bing shows a fishing village I pass by on the way to work. You can imagine these waves from the Cape of Storms hitting the second story windows in the restaurant overlooking the little lighthouse at the end of the pier.

[Raider]

Well, keep updating, and let me know when it's done, ok?

[Inquisitive]

OK - I think it's ready for the rigours of MSF testing (no broken images, correctly identified manufacturers, etc.) Perhaps we should wait for comments first.

I haven't addressed TPs, just the overlap with Long DPs.

I think we should say a bit more about going cat-less, being: the purposes are to reduce backpressure, increase exhaust flow, decrease turbo spool time, increase horsepower, broaden the torque band and produce a more aggressive sound.

Eliminate one catalytic converter (cat) by either replacing the DP which contains cat-1 or cat-2 and resonator delete, called a test pipe and then add a free flow exhaust. The latter also being called cat-back, but expect complaints from the neighbours with this second option. The increased exhaust flow will move the detonation threshold up and creates enough VE to allow for slightly higher boost targets. (Cobb) However, running completely cat-less can create severe boost spikes as well as over boost conditions. Fast cats are expensive. Remember to lower your WGDC a few percent in the 2500 to 3500 RPMs range @phate; ) when deleting a cat as the turbo will spool quicker or you will see boost spikes. Also, lower the requested load to less than actual load in the spike area. @Speed3eak; ) With a DP, you should see 1-2 better mpg @wolly6973; ) and get two more psi @MSMS3; ). Replacing the DP reduces the back pressure and may allow oil to pass by the turbo seals. This was more a problem with the GenWans and remedied by raising the idle to 900 RPMs and / or swapping to a smaller diameter oil feed bolt “pill” sold by bnoon. @MS3-a(sore)ASS-rex; )

The first oxygen (O2) sensor is essential for the ECU’s AFR tuning. The second O2 sensor is after cat-1 just to ensure that there is a functioning catalytic converter in the system. The ECU is expecting to see a difference between the two sensors. Otherwise, it will trip a CEL and can put the vehicle in “Null” / “Valet” / “Dealer” mode limiting speed, etc. An extension on the second O2 bung is also called a spark plug de-fouler or mechanical O2 fix. It lifts the second O2 sensor out of the exhaust flow and “usually” fools the ECU into thinking that cat-1 is still there restricting the exhaust flow. These can be purchased separately or comes with the pipe. Note that they do not come with a guarantee to not trip a CEL.

[MSMS3]

Excellent summary of available DPs, features, benefits and risks. I would add the following caveat, which concurs with your post:

1. I ran catless dp/rp in my sig below for a short while without either a high pressure fuel pump upgrade or a tune. That proved dangerous, in retrospect. I reported at the time about a 2 psi boost gain on the stock tune. But, there was also a pretty nasty boost spike in the 3,500 rpm range, running up to about 21 psi.

2. I did install the Hypertech tune based on "back channel" info from another trusted MS3 user on this board that it would actually eliminate the spikes while raising load limits, increasing timing, etc. It did, in fact, remove those spikes and proved to be a very effective tune if you are staying on the stock K04 turbo and running ordinary premium pump gas.

3. I learned later, fortunately before it was too late, that the high pressure fuel pump upgrade is essential to safety if running an exhaust this free flowing. I began monitoring (ScanXL Pro software and laptop) with the HT tune and discovered that fuel pressure was close to becoming unsafe and then did drop under load on a couple datalogs to unsafe levels. Of course this is well-known now, but perhaps not so back then. So, pump internals were installed.

Thanks, again for the excellent summary. Running a 3" catless dp and rp really wakes this engine up. But, for those who may be new to the issue and considering this exhaust upgrade, it is unsafe without both some sort of tune to kill the spikes and a high pressure pump internals upgrade.

[Raider]

Bumping this. Is this finished/ready to update to 2015 standards? People please check and give input, too

[Raider]

OP updated!

[okspeed]

Is there a consensus on the best catted downpipe ie: best value/performance/build quality? Maybe Cobb quality but better price/value? Have internals and intake, looking for best all around downpipe setup with cat.

[Inquisitive]

I have now included the TPs / RPs.

Originally Posted by okspeed Is there a consensus on the best catted downpipe ie: best value/performance/build quality? Maybe Cobb quality but better price/value? Have internals and intake, looking for best all around downpipe setup with cat.

Like the Wiki and my other threads, the order is given in descending Genpu purchase order with the UR DP being the most popular choice and the others less so. I think this is the closest to a broad consensus as one will find. Whether one wants to argue that Genpus have learned from their predecessors is up to you.

With threads like this it is often asked, “Which is the best?” This is difficult to answer as some consider best quality at any price, personal preference / bragging rights / street cred (popular brand), best value (quality at a good price), popularity (local Nator), cheapest price, etc.

It may not give you a competitive edge choosing the most popular option, but it should allow you to compete.

[theurgy]

My shortlist has always been Cobb, CP-e, and UR. But that's just me.

[okspeed]

Anyone have any luck with the ebay/Amazon test pipes?

[TurboSix]

Originally Posted by okspeed Anyone have any luck with the ebay/Amazon test pipes?

Some people have better success than other with ebay. Guess its luck of the draw. But go do some research. You can find a lot of information by spending a little bit of time

[Porterhouse07]

I just read all 8 pages and couldn't find what I'm looking for. Maybe my mind went numb from reading so much but....

I just got a deal on a CS catted DP with an 80mm flange. Is there any way to use this with the stock exhaust or do I need to leave the DP off until i can get an aftermarket CBE?

[Inquisitive]

Originally Posted by Flrdast2 I just got a deal on a CS catted DP with an 80mm flange. Is there any way to use this with the stock exhaust or do I need to leave the DP off until i can get an aftermarket CBE?

I see you got a response to this question posed at: The Official Gen 1/2 Mazdaspeed 3 Intercooler Thread. Firstly, I assume that you are not talking about a full / long CS DP. Therefore, you need to transition from 80 to 65 to hook-up to the OEM. Most members buy a TP / RP for this purpose. You could stay with CS to ensure fit or have a local shop make this and at the same time look at a custom resonated version depending upon your taste (and neighbours or your empathy to your neighbours - lol). With CBE, most recommend a minimum of 73 throughout to not limit future BT installation.

[Porterhouse07]

Originally Posted by Inquisitive I see you got a response to this question posed at: The Official Gen 1/2 Mazdaspeed 3 Intercooler Thread. Firstly, I assume that you are not talking about a full / long CS DP. Therefore, you need to transition from 80 to 65 to hook-up to the OEM. Most members buy a TP / RP for this purpose. You could stay with CS to ensure fit or have a local shop make this and at the same time look at a custom resonated version depending upon your taste (and neighbours or your empathy to your neighbours - lol). With CBE, most recommend a minimum of 73 throughout to not limit future BT installation.

That was a one off question that was off topic in that thread. Thought I'd put it where it needs to go. I just realized I put it in Gen 1 thread also but from what I understand, there is no difference. But I am talking about the long catted DP. Just trying to figure out what I need to do to go ahead and install the 80mm DP before I get a CBE

[CleanMS3]

You can get a gasket that tapers down from 3" to oem

Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk

[SpencerC]

All you need is a gasket that fills the extra space from 80mm to 65mm. A donut gasket might work. It is difficult though to prevent it from leaking since it is a bottleneck there so the potential for air leaks is much higher.

[Porterhouse07]

Originally Posted by Spencer@CorkSport All you need is a gasket that fills the extra space from 80mm to 65mm. A donut gasket might work. It is difficult though to prevent it from leaking since it is a bottleneck there so the potential for air leaks is much higher.

Thanks for the input. Is that something I can pick up at a parts store or do I need to order it? I've seen it on your website But if I can get one locally, it would obviously be faster. I was contemplating having a shop fabricate a resonator delete pipe from the DP to the stock muffler.

[SpencerC]

Originally Posted by Flrdast2 Thanks for the input. Is that something I can pick up at a parts store or do I need to order it? I've seen it on your website But if I can get one locally, it would obviously be faster. I was contemplating having a shop fabricate a resonator delete pipe from the DP to the stock muffler.

Some autoparts stores might have it, or an exhaust shop. Not sure what you mean fabricate a resonater delete pipe from DP to stock muffler... the DP if it is ours and 80mm has no resonater just a high-flow catalyst. If you delete that you are wasting the whole point of getting a high-flow cat in the first place, those reasons being no CEL, no smell, and backpressure acting how it is supposed to.

[Rommel043]

my question is, will any 3" long downpipe mate right up to the stock catback exhaust or will i have to get a donut adapter?

Thanks fellas

[aromig]

Originally Posted by Rommel043 my question is, will any 3" long downpipe mate right up to the stock catback exhaust or will i have to get a donut adapter? Thanks fellas

If the catback side flange tapers to 65mm, you're good. If it stays 80mm/3inch all the way, it won't work unless you can rig it somehow. Personally recommend against that though.

[GregScuba]

Not sure if this has already been mentioned, but I just stumbled upon this, and thought I'd throw it in the mix. Apparently Magnaflow makes a DP. No idea how it performs though.
Magnaflow/Catalytic Converter 51545 at AutoZone.com