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 Old 03-25-2008, 03:24 PM   #1
 
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Default Price quotes please Synapse Eng and Vibrant

Hey I was wondering how much the Synapse BOV goes for set up to VTA on a speed 3 that currently has an HKS.

And I think you can get Vibrant components so the 2.5" OD aluminum induction tubing, if they have non-polished that would be preferred.
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 Old 03-25-2008, 04:14 PM   #2
 
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Originally Posted by CraigHJr View Post
Hey I was wondering how much the Synapse BOV goes for set up to VTA on a speed 3 that currently has an HKS.

And I think you can get Vibrant components so the 2.5" OD aluminum induction tubing, if they have non-polished that would be preferred.
I can do $230 shipped for the Valve with the HKS adapter and VTA/Anti-stall kit.

And for the Vibrant what are you looking for just straight pipe?

Straight I can do $22 per 18" shipped to you.
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 Old 03-25-2008, 05:09 PM   #3
 
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Cool I will take them both. I will call now.
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 Old 03-26-2008, 09:41 AM   #4
 
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Synapse has a kit for the speed3 now?!
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 Old 03-26-2008, 10:24 AM   #5
 
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According to the Synapse Forum a kit was in the works, for me I had a HKS flange from CP-E so I will reuse that.
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 Old 03-26-2008, 11:25 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by Jesse MS3GT View Post
Synapse has a kit for the speed3 now?!
no you have to use the HKS adapter which I can do for you for the same price I quoted Craig minus the VTA adapter if you plan to stay recirc.

Nypest just ordered one actually.
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 Old 03-26-2008, 11:59 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by redrocketz View Post
no you have to use the HKS adapter which I can do for you for the same price I quoted Craig minus the VTA adapter if you plan to stay recirc.

Nypest just ordered one actually.
yup yup but i thought it was the ATP flange ? lower profile ?????
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 Old 03-26-2008, 12:04 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by NYpest View Post
yup yup but i thought it was the ATP flange ? lower profile ?????
yeah he already had a flange that's why
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 Old 03-26-2008, 12:31 PM   #9
 
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oh sorry i read it like you were packaging the hks flange in ........ Cant wait for this thin and my FP is here tomorrow
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 Old 03-28-2008, 10:39 PM   #10
 
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Ok the Synapse valve is installed. It was a pain it the ass.
1. You have to remove your turbo inlet to get a clear shot at the boost source for the 3rd port.
2. The HKS base is a rediclously tight fit with the CP-E HKS flange.
3. The set screws are 1.5mm not 1/16". They only give you one 2.5mm allen key for the recirc nipple. I didn't have any allen keys this small at work so I had to make one, which sucked.
4. My biggest bitch, The threads on my valves piston looked marred and there was a chink in the flat machined surface of the end (where the anti-stall kit seats). I think the anti-stall kit didn't screw in all the way. It says to go hand tight and put your finger in the valve to hold the piston which did nothing. I think this is being backed up my the fact that occasionally the valve doesn't seat well and althought I can drive without stalling I am seeing AFR's in the 17-19 range.

Was this one a return or something?
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 Old 03-28-2008, 11:26 PM   #11
 
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BOOOOO! It doesn't sound like something to look froward to......The Synapse forum says its almost too easy on the Mazda Speeds and when i talked to PG they gave me the same impression...
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 Old 03-28-2008, 11:29 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by CraigHJr View Post
Ok the Synapse valve is installed. It was a pain it the ass.
1. You have to remove your turbo inlet to get a clear shot at the boost source for the 3rd port.
2. The HKS base is a rediclously tight fit with the CP-E HKS flange.
3. The set screws are 1.5mm not 1/16". They only give you one 2.5mm allen key for the recirc nipple. I didn't have any allen keys this small at work so I had to make one, which sucked.
4. My biggest bitch, The threads on my valves piston looked marred and there was a chink in the flat machined surface of the end (where the anti-stall kit seats). I think the anti-stall kit didn't screw in all the way. It says to go hand tight and put your finger in the valve to hold the piston which did nothing. I think this is being backed up my the fact that occasionally the valve doesn't seat well and althought I can drive without stalling I am seeing AFR's in the 17-19 range.

Was this one a return or something?
nope it was brand new. the anti-stall is a pain in the ass to install I had to physically hold the piston with some force to keep it from moving while threading in the anti-stall it was harder then the instructions made it seem.


When are you hitting 17-19 afr's?
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 Old 03-29-2008, 04:47 PM   #13
 
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I put a rag on the aluminum and pliers and I don't thing the O-ring fully seated still. It was pretty darn tight. The lean spot happened after two 1-2 shifts and one 2-3 shift. I was snowboarding all day and going to a concert now so I will dick with it tomorrow now.
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 Old 03-29-2008, 04:58 PM   #14
 
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You will always have some problems running VTA on a car designed to recirc sadly. I would say try using that and see what happens if all else fails.
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 Old 03-29-2008, 09:46 PM   #15
 
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Was the Anti-stall kit the hard part to install or the bov itself?

I want to order this instead of the HKS I was planning on. Should I just put the HKS plate thing in the cart with the Synapse to make this "kit"??
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 Old 03-30-2008, 09:36 AM   #16
 
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Due to the size of the bov and the angle of the Turbo XS hot pipe recirc will not happen. In truth that will only mask the problem of the anti stall kit not sealing while driving because in recirc the valve will act normally.

The whole valve was a pain in the butt to install for the reasons I said in post one. If you have no BOV now you need the HKS to Mazda flange to install it yes.

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 Old 03-30-2008, 09:55 AM   #17
 
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where do the instructions say to tap boost only?
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 Old 03-30-2008, 11:21 AM   #18
 
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On top of the box there is a sticker. The dirrections book makes no mention of the 3rd port on the side of the valve.

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 Old 03-30-2008, 03:14 PM   #19
 
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hmmmmmm when i spoke to them they said you can run it to the top of the waistgate actuator...
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 Old 03-30-2008, 04:21 PM   #20
 
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Yeah the wastgate is down pretty far and low. To do a solid leak free install I choose to take stuff appart instead of blindly reaching down to a line that you can only see 2 inches of. I chose to put the bov line between the turbo and wastegate not the wastegate and electronic solenoid.
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 Old 03-30-2008, 05:24 PM   #21
 
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ahh now i see why you had to take the inlet out..
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 Old 04-13-2008, 10:36 PM   #22
 
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Thank you PG for getting this to me so quickly. As I posted in another forum I will post something useful after a visit to the dealer for the update.
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 Old 05-12-2008, 07:10 AM   #23
 
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I received mine but I am still waiting on the flange.
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