Punctured A/C hose, looking for a quick answer from someone familiar

[SpeedThrills]

So the usual, my FMIC piping appears to have rubbed a hole into my AC discharge line. Going to order a new one and I know I need to have a full evac and recharge done. But I'm seeing a lot of conflicting info on whether or not I need to replace the accumulator AND the expansion valve. All searches just lead to condenser replacement threads.

Any help is appreciated

[SaveMelMac]

Shouldn’t need to. It’s highly recommended you replace those other parts when the ac compression blows.

[SpeedThrills]

Originally Posted by SaveMelMac Shouldn’t need to. It’s highly recommended you replace those other parts when the ac compression blows.

Well people keep saying that because the system has been exposed and has become "open" that there is likely moisture or possible debris in the system, I must replace the drier. the instructions on the replacement part on an Ebay listing say the valve must also be replaced, but then people say otherwise so i'm not sure.

[SaveMelMac]

Originally Posted by SpeedThrills Well people keep saying that because the system has been exposed and has become "open" that there is likely moisture or possible debris in the system, I must replace the drier. the instructions on the replacement part on an Ebay listing say the valve must also be replaced, but then people say otherwise so i'm not sure.

Anytime the ac system is opened you should put the whole system under a vacuum to remove the moisture. The drier does like to absorb moisture, if we are talking just a pin hole leak I wouldn’t worry about it. If you are going to have the complete ac system torn apart and sitting for days, then yes replace the drier. Just swapping the hoses, then don’t worry about it. As far as the valve, not necessary at all.

[SSinstaller]

If your compressor didnt eat itself you shouldnt have anything to worry about in the lines. Id always recommend replacing the dryer, but wouldnt bother with anything else.

[SpeedThrills]

Thanks guys, really appreciate the responses. Spanner in the fan... got antsy and removed the IC piping to take a look at the ac line before ordering a new one ( I could see from the top that it was rubbing and the insulation was torn and there was clear rubbing damage, and i suddenly didn't have a/c so.... fair estimation I felt).. can't see or feel a hole or crack for the life of me. IC has only been on for about 3,000 so the rubbing is still surface deep. So it appears... I'll be finding a place to have the system tested.

I pushed in the valve pins in the ports and no freon released so... either I lost all pressure for some reason or have a leak somewhere else. But I swear a few weeks ago I had ice cold A/C. This is going to become very frustrating..

[GroceryGtr]

could always recharge yourself with some 134 with leak detection in it. Kits are around $40 on amazon and come with the light and glasses. Certainly cheaper than taking it somewhere.

[Shwaykid]

I just had to replace the compressor, rec/dryer, and condensor on my old B14 SE-R.

After calling a few shops, they all wanted around $200 for a simple vacuum and re-charge...

For $140 or so, I bought all this stuff off amazon and did it myself:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


To my surprise, it all actually worked great. Bought some cheap freon from Autozone and was off to the races.

[SpeedThrills]

Actually around here most of the chain auto places will pressure check for free and do a leak check for about $30 so that's the route I'm going to go before I started blowing through $40 cans of r-134a. After over two years trouble free with this car, the past month or so has made me want to start walking to work.

I also can't open my hood at my condo without getting ratted out by a neighbor and subsequently fined by management so most of my DIY work is limited.I had to go across the street just to do my wipers lol. Gotta love it

[Thor Hammer]

Originally Posted by SpeedThrills Actually around here most of the chain auto places will pressure check for free and do a leak check for about $30 so that's the route I'm going to go before I started blowing through $40 cans of r-134a. After over two years trouble free with this car, the past month or so has made me want to start walking to work. I also can't open my hood at my condo without getting ratted out by a neighbor and subsequently fined by management so most of my DIY work is limited.I had to go across the street just to do my wipers lol. Gotta love it

If you put any can of refrigerant on your own that has dye or oil in it AC shops wont touch it. When they evac the system with that shit in there it fouls up their valves in the machine. That's what they all told me. I'd just take it to an AC shop. Good luck!

[Shwaykid]

It's only $8 a can:

https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-ga...ssors/3275_0_0

I'm lucky I guess, my neighbors in my complex don't care if I work on my car. In fact, some of them see me wrenching and ask for help with their cars.

The chain places here in Austin are the same. Free A/C check, then if something is wrong, they charge a minimum hour of labor, then the marked up cost of freon. which is how the all end up around $200.

[SpeedThrills]

You gents have been incredibly helpful and i;m hoping that can continue! So I'm clearly no expert on how A/C systems really operate, I understand the rudimentary but not how to really troubleshoot. So heres the update:

I caved and bought a can of r-134a with UV dye and a set of UV glasses and a light. I added the can when I went to one of my job sites, the compressor kicked on for about 4 seconds and then cut back off. So I atleast know the compressor and clutch aren't smoked. Adde the full can, compressor never came back to life... (can was 10.25oz btw) went back to Walmart and got a can with a pressure gauge (this can is 18oz)

So i'm filling it and the clutch kicks on, ac line gets cold to the touch.. shuts off... I add more, same thing again. All in, it kicked on three times, but by the end it was off and not coming back around. Thing is, the gauge only shows pressure when I'm adding freon, the second I stop depressing the button, the needle slowly drops to zero. That may be normal operation, don't know. But then when I start dispensing again it starts back at around 20psi, climbs to 45, I stop, gauge drops to zero, and then I start again at 20psi..

Seems the system isn't pressurizing. I put the dye in and have run the car for now a couple of hours, still not spotting any leaks. No wet carpets, no funky smells. I'm at a loss. What would cause the system to REFUSE to BUILD pressure? At this point i've added 18oz of freon and I'm not trying to overcharge it but I have no idea where things stand.

[crankshaft]

I read on another site that 17.8 ounces is approx the volume. My first guess is that it's still leaking.... The can has enough pressure to satisfy the low pressure switch..but it sounds like it's pumping out the high side. I recommend you get some proper gauges so you aren't making guesses. Those cans with the gauge only show low side pressure. It's a gamble....or a minimum doesn't give you the whole picture.

[SpeedThrills]

Im just bringing it to a shop. Can't find a leak, don't want to waste anymore money on this shit.

[SpeedThrills]

Was the condenser, punctured on the back side, I checked there after adding to the system myself and couldn't detect anything. Shop fed it some refrigerant and it pissed right out the condenser so there you go. Replacing that then having the system vac'd and charged. All in all, couldn't escape paying about $200 total. Albeit $30 of that was wasted on my can of freon and the UV light kit.

[greg08]

Yea, when it comes to AC it's best to just bring it to a shop. The machine makes it so easy to find leaks, vac the system and recharge it, and they add a little lubricant to the system to keep it running smooth.. I'm happy you got it figured out.

[SpeedThrills]

So, do I really need to drain and remove the radiator to get to the condenser? Can't find any write-ups other than 2010+ mazda3's and a couple of speed6's, assuming its the same but quietly hoping not..

[Hoyoman]

replace line evac refill and you're good to go

[SpeedThrills]

Originally Posted by Hoyoman replace line evac refill and you're good to go

May have missed the rest of the thread, turned out to be the condenser not the line.

[greg08]

I have no idea, but removing the radiator can't be all that hard, and refreshing the coolant system is never a bad idea

[SpeedThrills]

Originally Posted by greg08 I have no idea, but removing the radiator can't be all that hard, and refreshing the coolant system is never a bad idea

You're not wrong sir. Replacing the condenser tomorrow.