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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score 07 ms3 80k on it.
__________________ 07 ms3 silver hks turbo timer / cobb turbo inlet / mazdaspeed cai / motegi 18's / Cobb v3 / steel brake lines / stuffed giraffe |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score how do i check if they are bad?
__________________ 07 ms3 silver hks turbo timer / cobb turbo inlet / mazdaspeed cai / motegi 18's / Cobb v3 / steel brake lines / stuffed giraffe |
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__________________ 2007 True Red MS3 Koni Yellows || H&R Springs || JBR RSB || JBR Dogbone RMM || Centric Blanks || CS Pads || Goodridge SS Brake Lines || CS SSP || Hella Supertones || 55w 5000k HIDs/35w 3000k fogs || eonon D5151 HU/Nav/PS2 || 17x8 RPF1s || 235/45 DW || CS BPV || CS Intake/TIP || CXRacing/Godspeed FMIC || Ultimate Racing TP || Autotech Internals || AP v3 |
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__________________ 07 ms3 silver hks turbo timer / cobb turbo inlet / mazdaspeed cai / motegi 18's / Cobb v3 / steel brake lines / stuffed giraffe |
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__________________ Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool or a coward. Whoever cannot take care of himself without that law is both. For a wounded man shall say to his assailant, "If I Die, You are forgiven. If I Live, I will kill you." Such is the Rule of Honor |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score yeah i have been thinking about going that route, just dont have cash for it. i still need to buy a rmm.
__________________ 07 ms3 silver hks turbo timer / cobb turbo inlet / mazdaspeed cai / motegi 18's / Cobb v3 / steel brake lines / stuffed giraffe |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I don't think the smell is gonna get better
__________________ Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool or a coward. Whoever cannot take care of himself without that law is both. For a wounded man shall say to his assailant, "If I Die, You are forgiven. If I Live, I will kill you." Such is the Rule of Honor |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You have a CAI, have you gone through any hard rain lately. If the maf gets wet, or dirty, it causes the engine to run poorly and the Cat's have to work overtime to clean the exhaust. And that will cause that smell.
__________________ 2010 Speed3-PTE5858 Freek built/Freektuned 510hp420tq 11.321@129.93 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Is this only when you first drive the car? After a hard drive? If you are running richer or the fuel mixture at the pump has changed it can cause these kind of smells. Has the performance or spool changed at all?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I Havant felt any performance difference but it has rained hard here lately Nc so it rains almost everyday. So if I clean the maf and its housing pretty well that may help out? And its like this when I first start driving and either stays the same after a short drive or gets slightly better but always smells bad during then first time I drive it. I do have a cai and I wanna trade it out for a sri I just dont have my stock air box to put in while I post my cai for trade.
__________________ 07 ms3 silver hks turbo timer / cobb turbo inlet / mazdaspeed cai / motegi 18's / Cobb v3 / steel brake lines / stuffed giraffe |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Before taking apart the exhaust, clean/dry the MAF (do not touch the 2 recessed resistors) and see if this still happens.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I'll do it tomorrow during my lunch break. And if anyone doesn't want their stock air box I could use one......
__________________ 07 ms3 silver hks turbo timer / cobb turbo inlet / mazdaspeed cai / motegi 18's / Cobb v3 / steel brake lines / stuffed giraffe |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score get a new feline |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You should sell the turbo timer and get a RMM. You're welcome.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Cleaned my maf sensor today with some cleaner I picked up Car did seem to idle better and drive smoother, will check the smell when I drive home from work today. *edit* still smells like the eggs.
__________________ 07 ms3 silver hks turbo timer / cobb turbo inlet / mazdaspeed cai / motegi 18's / Cobb v3 / steel brake lines / stuffed giraffe Last edited by speed3codes; 08-06-2013 at 03:40 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score are you getting a check engine light? When I had the rotten egg smell it was due to my catalytic converter going out. I was getting the error code "catalyst efficiency below threshold". You might need a new cat in the future, I would recommend a tabby or a callicoat. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I don't have a check engine light. And I'll look into those cats man.
__________________ 07 ms3 silver hks turbo timer / cobb turbo inlet / mazdaspeed cai / motegi 18's / Cobb v3 / steel brake lines / stuffed giraffe |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score From what I know that smell doesnt mean your cats are bad. The smell comes from using gas with high amounts of sulfur. When this gas is burned there is a chemical reaction with the cats which lets off the rotten egg smell. If everything is running as it should dont worry about it. But if you want to get rid of it change what gas your running or better yet, go catless! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Your cats are in the way out. You'll get a cel eventually once they die. Just keep driving. Tappin from S3
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i did get better gas milage by cleaning the maf, and i guess ill just drive them till they die and go catless. by then i should have enough cash for some exhaust parts.
__________________ 07 ms3 silver hks turbo timer / cobb turbo inlet / mazdaspeed cai / motegi 18's / Cobb v3 / steel brake lines / stuffed giraffe | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Bumping this because it’s relevent to me right now... I’ve been getting a “rich at idle” code that won’t go away and my exhaust smells of sulfur. I have yet to get a “catalyst” code though. I’ve already had the oxygen sensor replace and the MAF sensor cleaned and still have the issue. I do have a CS SRI and TMI, but I’ve had those for a number of years before ever having this issue. I’ve been suspecting bad cats but the shop is suggesting checking the wiring to the sensors and ECU and wanting $250 to do so... should I have them inspect those, or should I just have the cats replaced? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
__________________ Cobb AP | CS HPFP Internals | CS TMIC | CS SRI | CS Cold Air Box | CS TIP | CS RMM | CS SSP Still need: Cobb TBE | Proper tune |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Your cats are on the way out because you're running rich. Do you have a boost leak somewhere? Perhaps the intercooler couplers.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Coupler is definitely ok. I can’t say for certain I don’t have a leak though (haven’t had it physically tested), but I’ve never shown any dips on the AP either.
__________________ Cobb AP | CS HPFP Internals | CS TMIC | CS SRI | CS Cold Air Box | CS TIP | CS RMM | CS SSP Still need: Cobb TBE | Proper tune |
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Dips in what? What is your LTFT at idle?
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At idle I sit at -0.2 and -20.4 at load... so a bit off.
__________________ Cobb AP | CS HPFP Internals | CS TMIC | CS SRI | CS Cold Air Box | CS TIP | CS RMM | CS SSP Still need: Cobb TBE | Proper tune | |
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__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Would that account for idle as well? Rich at idle has been an issue for some time, whereas at load is new (code-wise.)
__________________ Cobb AP | CS HPFP Internals | CS TMIC | CS SRI | CS Cold Air Box | CS TIP | CS RMM | CS SSP Still need: Cobb TBE | Proper tune |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The STFTs go crazy in open loop, so you need to look at the commanded and actual AFR to determine if it's rich or not. If the exhaust smells like rotten eggs most probably your cats are shot. There is no problem (having the smell as a symptom) with your car. If the car ran rich the exhaust smell was pure gas.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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__________________ Cobb AP | CS HPFP Internals | CS TMIC | CS SRI | CS Cold Air Box | CS TIP | CS RMM | CS SSP Still need: Cobb TBE | Proper tune | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Check your tyre pressure as well, because that is as likely to contribute to your issue as it's your closed loop fuel trims. Oh, and also wash the car.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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![]() So, ran a couple logs as best I could tonight (a mostly warmed idle for reference and 3rd gear pull on a not-so-smooth on-ramp)... Gunna try to check things over this week and hopefully pinpoint something. Read through the linked thread and everyone seems to be all over the place. Thanks for all the help so far!
__________________ Cobb AP | CS HPFP Internals | CS TMIC | CS SRI | CS Cold Air Box | CS TIP | CS RMM | CS SSP Still need: Cobb TBE | Proper tune | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 3rd gear WOT log looks fine, the idle log doesn't. The AFRs at idle are around 13.1-13.2 and they should be somewhere between 14.5 and 14.8 depending on various things, or steady at 14.7 with no AC, heating, and a warm engine. So 3rd gear kind of confirms the primary O2 is fine, the idle log may show a vacuum leak. Or the MAF cal is not right in that area, but as the STFTs tell the deviation is more than 25% from target. Also, you never told us what mods are on the car, mostly the intake is important here.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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Let me know if I missed anything. And thanks again!
__________________ Cobb AP | CS HPFP Internals | CS TMIC | CS SRI | CS Cold Air Box | CS TIP | CS RMM | CS SSP Still need: Cobb TBE | Proper tune | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Would you mind sharing your MAF cal table? Attach the file here as a .csv file (coma separated).
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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Even updated the software. But again, even with running stock I still get rich at idle (same -25%)Definitely not getting around to toying around with anything this week though... will have to revisit after the weekend
__________________ Cobb AP | CS HPFP Internals | CS TMIC | CS SRI | CS Cold Air Box | CS TIP | CS RMM | CS SSP Still need: Cobb TBE | Proper tune | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok, just to be sure check your oil level too and see if it's not way above max.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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