Ziggo's 1993 Miata

[Ziggo]

It finally happened, the deal was too good so I came out of the closet.

Its a 1993 Base Model with 180,000 miles. Has been plastidipped black but is red underneath Has a loud engine clack, and came with no wheels. Paid $1000 for it as is. I offered less but seller wouldn't budge and I am reasonably sure the noise is just a failed HLA. There isn't any rust to speak of on the car, one of the frame rails is pretty beat up which is kind of weird.



Video Of Noise

1993 Miata HLA failure or Rod Knock - YouTube

1993 Miata HLA failure or Rod Knock - YouTube

Top Seems to be in decent condition, ignoring the stickers


MOAR stickers, (5hp each)


Some brand of bolt in rollbar: (will need to be replaced with a proper unit)


Also came with a sweet crown royal bag shift boot, a headunit that plays DVDs and my favorite bit, a NRG quick release hub its blue anodized, and while I would prefer just black I can live with it. The steering wheel glows in the dark and will be replaced with a deep dish wheel with an extender at some point


Looks like megan racing lowering springs, which apparently were not low enough...


Has a racing beat 4-1 Header, not a bad get if I end up keeping the 1.6 NA for awhile


Some sort of aftermarket all aluminum radiator, one of the mount brackets is broken tho




Its also dripping coolant from this hose and there was a fair amount of oil on the passenger side of the block, but he did say he just changed the oil, and with that filter location I can't see how you can remove it without getting oil everywhere. Probably easiest to fix with a coolant reroute

[spals]

What's the plan? Turbo? V8? Ev? Congrats on finally getting one!

Also, rofl about the springs

[Neverlift]

'bout time.

[Ziggo]

So I made the previous video really creepy by slowing it down to 1/8th speed, but you can clearly hear and count the ticks and based on some maths (in the youtube description) its looking very very likely that its a stuck HLA.

1993 Miata HLA Failure or Rod Knock (Part 2) - YouTube

1993 Miata HLA Failure or Rod Knock (Part 2) - YouTube

[Code Monkey]

Put Rotella in that bitch, my 1.6 has been running super smooth and quiet since I did it.

[beachshoer]

You gonna try to get it unstuck with fluids or take it apart and clean all of them?

[pzr2874]

SF and t6

[Ziggo]

I am going to take it apart and clean. Replace timing belt & water pump at the same time. Need to sort out that coolant leak/replace that hose anyway.

I tried measuring the valve lash, thinking that if the noise was as bad as I was hearing, one of the lifters had to be collapsed but no dice. Couldn't even get a .002 feeler in between any of them. Tested compression since I thought that maybe one might be over full and the noise was a valve, but compression was good across the board. 200-203-206-210

[Tyhackman15]

Get some frame rail braces. On Lowered cars they take a beating. Cheap insurance and stiffens up the body nicely.

[thehead]

damn, that's a hell of a deal, even with the stickers. I've been looking for something like this as well so I can race it or my ms6, having one or the other as a backup. Nice find!

[Ziggo]

Noticed a couple more things

This connector back by the battery is unplugged, anyone know what it does?



This connector is just dangling near the front of the motor. Is this the ECU's coolant temperature sensor? The connector seems to be a single lead. Appears to be the right length to plug into something located on top of the coolant housing..



A loose vacuum line was confusing me till I realized it used to connect to the obviously broken nipple on the solenoid, leading to the charcoal canister. I guess I can just delete this whole apparatus, though I am concerned about leaving the fuel tank with no vent.

[beachshoer]

The joys of picking up a used modded car.

[aaronc7]

Not sure on the electronics stuff. On 1.8s, the coolant temp sensor is on the back of the engine, I'm not too smart on the 1.6s. FWIW I ran no vent on my tank for quite some time and it seemed fine. Vented gas cap maybe?

[Code Monkey]

Looks like the dangling connector in 2nd picture is for the temperature sensor on top of the thermostat housing, here is a picture from my 1991, sorry for the mess, I am in the middle of doing the TB/WP.

[Code Monkey]

Another thought, check the timing, if it is set to 16 or 18 you need to run premium gas, otherwise the engine will ping. The stock timing is 10 degrees, some bump it to 12 or 14.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by Ziggo It finally happened, the deal was too good so I came out of the closet.

I always thought there was something not quite right about ya ... congrats on the new toy... guess the speed will run on 3 cylinders for a while now... huh?

[Ziggo]

Originally Posted by Dano I always thought there was something not quite right about ya ... congrats on the new toy... guess the speed will run on 3 cylinders for a while now... huh?

Well its running on ~3.8 cylinders or so. Its not THAT bad, will probably just monitor it and make sure it doesn't keep going south. Hopefully it lasts long enough for me to get this thing in shape.

I think I found the source of the noise:

1993 Miata HLA failure or Rod Knock (part 3) - YouTube

1993 Miata HLA failure or Rod Knock (part 3) - YouTube

[Chief_Wiggum]

Dibs on glow in the dark steering wheel!

[SpencerC]

It's a $1000 miata... clicks are normal.... mine cost me $600.... it clicks like that anytime I run low on oil. 3 years later... it still does it... one of these days I'll pull it apart and fix it, but it's pretty common. You should also check if new spark plugs help, the Miata plugs are known to fail really early, and it sounds like some of your sound might be plug related. On my 3rd Miata it made some nice clicking, I assumed it was the HLA also.... turned out to just be the plugs.

[Mazdazilla6]

Why not just swap to solid lifters?

Oh and welcome to the club!

Originally Posted by Chief_Wiggum Dibs on glow in the dark steering wheel!

No fuck you, I want that steering wheel!

[Ziggo]

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 Why not just swap to solid lifters? Oh and welcome to the club! No fuck you, I want that steering wheel!

Not worth the trouble or money. Trying not to spend any money on the 1.6, cleaning them was "free" (shop towels and carb cleaner)

Going to have to sort out the radiator next since it's mounting brackets are broken. Called the manufacturer who won't sell the brackets separately. It's a cheapo eBay radiator, seems like several "manufacturers" are selling the same China core (Godspeed, cxracing & Mishimoto) it's a $150 radiator so I won't feel too bad about tossing the whole bit, but I am going to try to find some OEM radiator brackets and see if I can adapt them to remount this thing.

[Mazdazilla6]

I've got the same radiator. Be happy it's not stock lol.

[Ziggo]

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 I've got the same radiator. Be happy it's not stock lol.

Yeah, the OEM looks pretty pathetic.

I bought a new thermostatic switch ($15) and OEM radiator brackets ($20) hopefully I can make them work to mount the radiator.

[Ziggo]

@Code Monkey; what's the story on the AC? Is is any good or should I just rip the whole thing out?

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by Ziggo @Code Monkey; what's the story on the AC? Is is any good or should I just rip the whole thing out?

No idea as mine never worked, needs a new ac compressor. With the top up and all the windows down it is still quite pleasant in 90* weather. I will probably yank the ac when I delete power steering but I am still undecided on both.

[rizzant]

Hows the Heater? Everyone I know that starts tracking their Miata ends up with a blown heater core, burning feet, and stinky carpets sooner or later. Might as well bypass it now and rip out that ducting if youre gonna nix the AC anyways. You just lose that extra way of cooling your car.

[UnknownSuperhero]

It's So Squishy!!


Did the cleaning take care of that HLA?

[pzr2874]

Replace that clutch master cylinder ASAP.

[Ziggo]

No idea about the HLA or the heater yet. Radiator is still out of the car. I don't think the new brackets will be here till next Monday unfortunately. I retimed the motor Sunday night (that should be a two man job) have to set the tensioner next.

I guess I will go ahead and put the accessory belt back on for now. The sight glass has been painted black so I think the car has been converted to 134a already.

[Ziggo]

Never mind about the sight glass it was just 21 years worth of grime. Low and High side fittings are still npt too. Will. Have to take it to a shop and have it drained, replace the drier and a few O-rings and have a shop pump it down and refill. All to find out if the compressor is any good.....

Looking more like it's better just to rip the whole system out.

[Ziggo]

Started it back up this morning and everything ran great. I cleaned out the overflow tank and lines, removing a bunch o brown gunk, however now I have a small leak in the overflow tank, probably from when I was smacking it trying to break loose the gunk.. Also found a small leak in the washer fluid tank around the pump. Removed the pump and the grommet there is hard as a rock and torn.

So I ordered a replacement Washer Fluid pump ($11) Radiator cap ($5) and OEM overflow tank ($45.. ouch)

I didn't want a salvage overflow tank since those have already seen some heat cycles, and prices are like $35 shipped on ebay. I didn't see any universal tanks that I liked for less than $80 and the OEM one lasted 20 years so why not.

Next task is pulling the steering rack. I think that is the source of the gunk on the drivers side of the motor, if it is leaking it makes up my mind on de-powering the rack.

[Neverlift]

I've seen your arms, you sure you have enough firepower to track a depowered NA on 225 or 245 R comps?

How is the tick?

[akurma]

subbed

[Ziggo]

Originally Posted by Neverlift I've seen your arms, you sure you have enough firepower to track a depowered NA on 225 or 245 R comps? How is the tick?

I'll grow the firepower. Not intending on doing any endurance races.

The motor is still ticking, but it much less loud and likely just needs some more time to pump up the lifters.

Power steering is definitely the source of my grime, lines were competely dry. Not going to stop there though, both side need new ball joints and tie rod ends, the boots are cracked and crumbling. Question is do I go ahead and do all new bushings at this point also.

[Neverlift]

No question there, rubber bushings aren't going to be doing you any favors now, or in the future.

[Ziggo]

So I quickly tapped on the schrader valve NPT fitting for the AC line and nothing came out, no pressure. So a) there is probably a leak somewhere in the system and b) if its been dry for long if the AC was turned on much the compressor is probably fried.

So... went racecar mode. If I just cant stand it without the AC I will reconsider later. Fuck the bracket that attached the PS pump to the block. whomever put a bolt BEHIND a feature on the bracket it attaches deserves to be shot.

[Ziggo]

A hard days work.. All the rubber from the front suspension is out. Was very impressed with the amount of rust for a texas car. The vertical bolt that holds the lower ball joint in was rust welded in place on both sides. Just had to twist the head off. Will need to replace those bolts. The rest of the hardware will need some time with a wire brush and die to clean the rust off the threads.

Ball joints were a bitch, had to make a HF run. This thing is worth every penny: 3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator

Tighten that up as tight as you dare, smack the end of it with a hammer and see how far you can make a ball joint fly.

Pressed all the bushings out with a 3 jaw puller, no torch or burning rubber required.

Also got the powersteering bracket off. The "feature" that was blocking the bolt is a bushing that allows the bracket to clamp down on the pump. Pounded that bitch towards the rear of the car so I could get to the bolt.

Other housecleaning, coolant leak on the red hose is resolved. Removed it, cleaned the bungs on both ends with some sandpaper. Then put some high temp RTV on the bung, reinstalled the hose and clamped down. It will hold for now, but I am eventually going to have to get a bunch of rubber hose of various sizes and replace all the lines on the car. They are all at the end of their lifetime

[Mazdazilla6]

If you're still hearing a noisy lifter there's a good chance one of em is leaking (ie can't hold the oil that comes into it as fast as it is draining out of it). Mine has a bit of lifter noise but I've just come to ignore it, it's really only comes around when oil pressure is lower.

[Ziggo]

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 If you're still hearing a noisy lifter there's a good chance one of em is leaking (ie can't hold the oil that comes into it as fast as it is draining out of it). Mine has a bit of lifter noise but I've just come to ignore it, it's really only comes around when oil pressure is lower.

I checked them all prior to reassembly with oil and they all sealed up nicely. The motor has only been idled for 20 minutes or so to get everything up to temp, which really isn't long enough I don't think. Was really just verifying that there are no coolant leaks and that the thermostatic switch was working right.

[Ziggo]

Gangs all here, but goddamn does it look like alot of work. Time to start using an impact on the puller to push bushings out, I didn't realize how many were on the rear.

Also on the to do is to install a zerk on every one of these except the end links and the diff mounts. Then repaint black with rattle can.