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 Old 02-10-2017, 12:45 AM   #1
 
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Default Gas in oil

Greetings! I am at wits end. 2.3 ltr is getting gas in the oil. not just cold running, in 1000 miles I am a quart overfull at least. next thing it triggers timing crank to cam code, most likely due to the thin oil. Using syn oil. I enjoy the car but this is frustrating. I have installed a new high pressure pump hoping it was leaking past the cam side of pump, no change. Pulled the plugs and compression tested. #1 165 #2 165 #3 135 #4 155. Oil in cyl #3 came to 150.
Car runs fine starts fine no smoke or issues to notice except get overfull on oil. The plugs all looked ok put in new while out. Color was good. I am not that familiar with high pressure gas fuel injection, is it possible the lower compression cyl is letting that much gas past the rings?? My only other thought now is INJ? I am a diesel truck mechanic for many years.
Thanks for any help that may be out there. Seems when I try to research nothing comes up.
Last note car is all stock.
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 Old 02-10-2017, 08:15 AM   #2
 
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Are you sure its fuel thats getting in the oil (did you smell it)?

The only way fuel can get in the oil is by the cam side of the HPFP and pass the piston ring (like you stated)

HPFP is out of the equation since you changed it...piston 3 is only left option...unless its not fuel that gets in the oil!

Coolant may get in the oil if the head gasket is worn out...
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 Old 02-10-2017, 08:36 AM   #3
 
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Default Gas in oil.

definetly gas. coolant level is steady. I dumped 10 qts at work and passed the oil dump later, yes it is gas. So it is feasibley the lower compression cylinder? I was afraid of that. Since it came up with oil not a valve issue. rather costly changing oil every 1500 miles.
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 Old 02-10-2017, 10:02 AM   #4
 
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This engine is known to have a lot of fuel washdown and oil dilution, but a quart high in 1000 miles is a problem of a whole other magnitude. I'd have to imagine the oil film is not that great even after a few hundred miles with that degree of dilution.

Is the PCV system operating correctly? What does the usage of the car look like, is it 1000 miles that takes a year to accumulate at 5 miles a day or something?

Where are you located? Arizona vs. Alaska might make a difference too.
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 Old 02-10-2017, 10:37 AM   #5
 
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Did you change the whole HPFP or just the o-ring?

New or rebuilt pump?

Ill check on the forum if low compression in one cylinder can have this much of an effect on the oïl level!
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 Old 02-10-2017, 10:58 AM   #6
 
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Could'nt find a link to heavy fuel dilution because of low compression in one cylinder...a bad screw-seal in the HPFP is the most probable cause...
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 Old 02-10-2017, 01:29 PM   #7
 
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Default miles usage

wife drives to work about 5 miles round trip. Central Minnesota for weather. It is was a new hpfp fuel pump I installed. need to decide if I fix or get it gone? Trouble is owe too much. How are the 6 cylinders in cx9?
We have had the car 1 1/2 years and seems to be getting worse. Much worse than cold operation.
Alright I just went out and checked when we I had the 1000 mile number we had made some longer trips like 1 hour one way. took 1000 miles to make the oil.
I just went out and verified, 1-19-17 changed oil and filter at 88944 now at 89029 I am at least 1/2 inch over the full mark on dipstick. I am careful to check it the same each time, cold, wipe stick and recheck level. So that said only 85 miles in town and it is over full . I put in about 5 1/2 quarts of a little better with filter. was careful to be on the full mark not over at change. Yes it smells of gas. Appreciate the input
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 Old 02-10-2017, 01:45 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by trucmech View Post
wife drives to work about 5 miles round trip. Central Minnesota for weather. It is was a new hpfp fuel pump I installed. need to decide if I fix or get it gone? Trouble is owe too much. How are the 6 cylinders in cx9?
We have had the car 1 1/2 years and seems to be getting worse. Much worse than cold operation.
Alright I just went out and checked when we I had the 1000 mile number we had made some longer trips like 1 hour one way. took 1000 miles to make the oil.
I just went out and verified, 1-19-17 changed oil and filter at 88944 now at 89029 I am at least 1/2 inch over the full mark on dipstick. I am careful to check it the same each time, cold, wipe stick and recheck level. So that said only 85 miles in town and it is over full . I put in about 5 1/2 quarts of a little better with filter. was careful to be on the full mark not over at change. Yes it smells of gas. Appreciate the input
5 miles round trip? car never gets warm and fuel dilution will be horrible as enrichment is the highest when cold and evaporation to intake doesn’t have a chance to fix it.. not sure if it would be 1 qt in 1k miles but it will be higher than normal... this is true even for non-DI cars... I hate to say this but I would have/let her warm it up in the driveway before taking it to work and/or ask her to take a longer route.... if she doesn’t drive it at least as long as the ‘cold’ light is lit (for mine in Colorado it is almost three minutes before it shuts off) there will be a lot of fuel in the oil...


If you can’t... keep the OCI at 3k and use something like Rotella T6... it helps.
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Last edited by Yatta; 02-10-2017 at 02:09 PM. Reason: added ‘If you can’t'
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 Old 02-10-2017, 02:07 PM   #9
 
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Fuel dilution tends to be worse on DI gasoline engines. I guess you need to get the oil up normal operating temp for the fuel to flash off. At least take it onto the highway once a week for at least 15 minutes.
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 Old 02-10-2017, 03:36 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Yatta View Post
if she doesn’t drive it at least as long as the ‘cold’ light is lit (for mine in Colorado it is almost three minutes before it shuts off) there will be a lot of fuel in the oil...
You need a lot more than that, frankly. Based on my daily monitoring, the "I'm coooode" light turns off when ECT hits 130F. Normal running temp is like 180F+. The light typically goes off for me around the time I'm leaving the subdivision, within like a mile of driving, but it takes at least another ~4 miles to get the ECT up to temp. And I'm not sure about the oil temp but I wouldn't be surprised if it took several minutes more.

If she's got that short a daily drive, you changed the oil 1/19 (22 days ago), and you're a half quart high then it sounds like you get nearly as much gasoline in the oil as you burn running the damn thing.
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 Old 02-10-2017, 06:15 PM   #11
 
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Default cold run

I know cold running is an issue but she has never driven more than 2 1/2 miles to work for any job for a lotta years and a number of vehicles. This is worse than cold running. she has instructions to use the auto start and has been. I drove it for a week and ran it hard, manually shifted etc ran higher rpm to get it warmed up. May be my imagination but I think that was actually worse! It was like if I kept the inj pressure higher it made issue worse.
Next step I guess is to try a bore scope in cylinder. Are these aluminum cylinders? May have had an injector injecting too much and washed cylinder wall?
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 Old 02-11-2017, 08:15 PM   #12
 
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Used bore scope today inconclusive. Hard to see any real issues. Used a smoke tester to try and determine where compression is going. It is going to crankcase. using the flow meter and pressure diffrential changes. # 3 has the least pressure change and the highest flow when tested. Also the smoke from the oil fill streams out more than the other cylinders. Changed oil again. will drive about 140 mile tomorrow, sunday, see what happens. thanks for letting me vent! Still not sure how to fix. Or if i will fix...
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 Old 02-13-2017, 10:48 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by trucmech View Post
I know cold running is an issue but she has never driven more than 2 1/2 miles to work for any job for a lotta years and a number of vehicles. This is worse than cold running. she has instructions to use the auto start and has been. I drove it for a week and ran it hard, manually shifted etc ran higher rpm to get it warmed up. May be my imagination but I think that was actually worse! It was like if I kept the inj pressure higher it made issue worse.
Next step I guess is to try a bore scope in cylinder. Are these aluminum cylinders? May have had an injector injecting too much and washed cylinder wall?
OK, if running it hot and long results in more fuel in oil... you might be leaking from HPFP (fuel))to cylinder head).... I don’t think this is cold start or ring issue, though, a compression check would be a good thing...
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Here is what you need to do. Remove the hex plug on the side of the fuel pump. Does fuel spill out? Bad screw seal o-ring. New pump or not, that is the issue.

No fuel spills out? Possible leaky fuel injector after motor is off. Start the car and run for a short time. No need to come up to temp. Immediately pull the plugs and see which one is wet with fuel. Or use your bore scope to look around.

I have the screw seal O-rings or Wes3id has an entire rebuild kit. just do a search for HPFP rebuild kit.
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 Old 02-14-2017, 04:16 PM   #15
 
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thanks for additional ideas. hopefully new pump is ok. i have wondered on injectors. But it does start fine and as I say that it did stutter today when i started it. stumbled on start had to crank again slightly longer crank?
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