Why can't I get my air intake off?!?!

[horn4life]

Well I have a #2 injector that I need to replace and for some reason I cannot get the intake manifold to budge much at all. I can't wiggle the PCV(?) metal tube inserting connection on the lower driver's at all, and wonder if that is my main problem? Not sure how to loosen the tube without more movement in the intake manifold.

I have removed all 7 bolts and get some movement on the passenger side next to the power steering pump. I still need to pull the hose underneath the power sterring but the lack of movement is on the right side. Almost seems like there is a bolt I did not disconnect but I do not believe that is the case from the video I watched on YouTube.

I don't want to break anything and create a new problem. it's a PITA to remove a intake manifold to access the dang fuel injectors. I figured I's save $800 doing it myself. I had the number 3 injector replaced less that a year ago, and I may just replace all three old injectors.. but I have to get this darn manifold loose! I guess I can go to the hammer underneath but I am only getting about 1/8 inch movement on right hand side.My shop got in here a year ago, so I know it's possible.

Any ideas? It's the kid's car and I don't want to drop a bunch of cash into it. The intake looked tough because of access, but without much wiggle I am at a loss...

Thanks in advance, it's my first post on the forum!

[Vansquish]

It sounds like you haven't loosened up the EGR tube. The EGR tube runs from the driver's side of the block beneath the turbo inlet pipe to a port on the intake manifold (metal tube with a nut on it located at the bottom towards the driver's side of the intake manifold). Without loosening and/or removing the EGR tube, you will not be able to remove the intake manifold from the head.

[horn4life]

I removed the Nut that connects into the intake, but you are saying I need to loosen the other end?

I was trying to trace that and it was hard to see where the connection away from the intake was. I'll guess I need to
hunt that down and say a prayer...

Thanks for the reply, especially so quickly!!!

[Vansquish]

Yes. There is a small flange at the other end. The flange is attached by two small bolts and a very thin (and easy to drop) metal gasket.

[horn4life]

So I see one bolt that looks like it is holding the tube on the top side, with a very tight fit. Is that the only one? I think I can get to it with a box wrench, but I am guessing there may be another boltt on the other side.

If another bolt is on the other side it looks like my only potential access is from the wheel well on the driver's side? Yes?

I am saying a tiny prayer that it's only one bolt
!

[Vansquish]

If you remove the intake tube, it'll be much easier to access everything down there.

[Fstrnyou]

There is another bolt near the bottom of the manifold going into the block, not far from where the EGR tube connects.

I believe there should be a cast metal cover over the fuel rail that also needs to be removed? I don't recall if this cover attaches to the manifold or not.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou There is another bolt near the bottom of the manifold going into the block, not far from where the EGR tube connects. I believe there should be a cast metal cover over the fuel rail that also needs to be removed? I don't recall if this cover attaches to the manifold or not.

I'm pretty sure that the cast metal cover over the fuel rail does not need to be removed to remove the intake manifold.

Of course, if the goal of this whole thing is to replace injectors, then the cover will have to come off in order to remove the fuel rail and gain access to the injectors.

Originally Posted by horn4life So I see one bolt that looks like it is holding the tube on the top side, with a very tight fit. Is that the only one? I think I can get to it with a box wrench, but I am guessing there may be another boltt on the other side. If another bolt is on the other side it looks like my only potential access is from the wheel well on the driver's side? Yes? I am saying a tiny prayer that it's only one bolt !

There are two bolts holding the flange for the EGR tube onto the block. Like I said, if you pull the intake piping, you'll be able to see and gain access to the second bolt fairly easily.

[horn4life]

Thanks guys! Of course there was a reason that it felt like it was bolted in place. I did not remove the bolt above the EGR tube... Duh... As long as I don't drop the little screws putting the EGR tube back on I think all will be well in the end.

As a newbie here I really want to say thanks!

The EGR tube looks to be caked inside in soot, I assume I should just leave that alone and not clean it? I was just going to wipe out the throttle body. Any suggestions of things to look at while I am in here?

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by horn4life Thanks guys! Of course there was a reason that it felt like it was bolted in place. I did not remove the bolt above the EGR tube... Duh... As long as I don't drop the little screws putting the EGR tube back on I think all will be well in the end. As a newbie here I really want to say thanks! The EGR tube looks to be caked inside in soot, I assume I should just leave that alone and not clean it? I was just going to wipe out the throttle body. Any suggestions of things to look at while I am in here?

It's actually not a bad idea to clean out the EGR tube. If it gets restricted enough, then the car will throw a code. I wouldn't spend too much time on it though.

Just out of curiosity, why are you replacing injector #2 ? What are the symptoms you're trying to address?

You may also need to install new injector seals for both the rail and head connections in order to prevent leakage, knock, and the like.

[horn4life]

actually had it towed to shop, where they did compression check on all cylinders and switched pulgs and coils, and misfire still on #2 spark is there. They were going to replace #2 and I was considering all three remaining injectors. Im sure my daughter has been hauling ass for a year. (the 96 mph ticket verifies this) I'll replace injector and hopefully that works. I am going to try and be VERY careful removing the fuel rail.

I did run the car out of gas by pulling the fuel pump relay, so I am hoping I don't have too much fuel spillage to deal with. I opted to buy the part locally for $166 just to get the kid up and going. Normally I would have ordered all three online and waited a few days, but we really need 3 cars right now due to some family health issues from my inlaws.

SOOOoooooo - does it matter if I disconnect fuel rail at top where blue clip is or at bottom where the two bolts hole the line into the rail? I was going to to the bolts as easier access and I think the line should be fairly empty. Doesn't look crazy hard now that I can see everything. But a lot of work to get to injectors...

Again THANKS!!!!

[Vansquish]

@horn4life; just as a sanity check, did the shop (or you) verify that there is actually spark at the #2 plug? I know you pulled plugs/coils and swapped stuff around, but it could be that part of the ignition harness is messed up. I know it is possible because #3 on my car started having a misfire after I pulled the intake manifold to replace the PCV. The reason was that one of the wires running to the cylinder 3 portion of the harness had pulled out of the pin to which it had formerly been attached.

Long story short, it might be worth taking a look at the harness and/or verifying that there is actually spark at #2 before going all the way with the injector replacement (though you're pretty deep at this point).

I haven't had the joy of pulling the rail on my car yet, but based on other people's writings here on MSF:

"What I found is that some people pull the rail with the crows feet already removed so they don't have to risk trying to pull the injectors out of the head. Some people pull the rail before they pull the crows feet because their injectors will just pop out of the head after they remove the crows feet. There is no right or wrong way to remove it, just preference. However, I would strongly advise pulling the bolts from the fuel line and vacuum hose first in order to prevent bending the lines."

Also Corksport has a great how-to that is quite detailed:
https://corksport.com/support/instru...-6-991-WEB.pdf

[horn4life]

Shop tested for spark before switching the coils/plugs around. The rail is not popping off easily and I am wondering if I should remove the Torx bolts that hold the injectors in and just pull out everything?

I just don't want to force and break anything, any ideas on how to remove the rail? I can't figure out how to access the clips so I am guessing torx bolt removal is my only way. But I really wanted to only remove the one injector if possible...

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by horn4life Shop tested for spark before switching the coils/plugs around. The rail is not popping off easily and I am wondering if I should remove the Torx bolts that hold the injectors in and just pull out everything? I just don't want to force and break anything, any ideas on how to remove the rail? I can't figure out how to access the clips so I am guessing torx bolt removal is my only way. But I really wanted to only remove the one injector if possible...

Take a look at the link I left in my last post. It may help.

https://corksport.com/support/instru...-6-991-WEB.pdf

[horn4life]

well project completed! Thanks guys for the input, the links and suggestions. I was a little worried at first, as it was hard starting and ran rough at first. I thought I had primed the fuel pump enough, switching car on and off about 8 times letting fuel pump engage.

Taking off the fuel rail was just more a matter just putting some effort into taking it off. Remove from the driver's injector and move toward passenger side.

I only ran car for a few minutes but it sounded great. Make sure and look into the tube on the fuel rail as I has a couple O rings and the small plastic washers come off in the tube. I did use vasoline on all the seals, washers, and inside the fuel rail tube when I was reassembling to get help ease everything back into place. I did screw up in that I did not put all the lines back together before popping the air cooler back on, and had to take it back off to reroute the lines properly.

thanks again guys, tomottow is replacing the window motors, where I think the secret is doing it carefully and keeping everything aligned while changing out the motors.

I will lift a Jack to all of you shortly!

[Vansquish]

Congratulations! I'm thrilled to hear that the car is running better now. Here's to many more motoring miles of happiness.

I know that window gremlins have been addressed on this forum before as well, but I'm not sure how many of them involved MS3s versus the MS6 (which is known for a window switch learning issue).

Just as an FYI, the full shop manual for the MS3 is available in the VIP portion of the forum. The VIP section is accessible via a small donation.

Enjoy that Jack!

[MSMS3]

Sometimes the window issue is just the old rubber seals sticking to the glass. If you can lubricate the rubber they might work.

Of course, if the window is down and won’t raise, it’s something else, either electrical, or the cables or motors.