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| Not Ranked : 0 score If were you. Check all fuses first could be as simple as that. Verify that you have power at the starter. Don't laugh but if it has power hit it with a hammer a couple times. Then try to start. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score When my OEM battery died it went dead dead. It wouldn't charge, couldn't be jumped, and did all sorts of funky things (including power steering cutting in and out while I was driving it to the shop after I got it push started). It cranked at first with no start, then eventually wouldn't crank. As for your clicking, CX-7s have known issues with bad A/C pumps and bad VVT Actuators. Both the clicking and the starting issues could be caused by either as well. It's kind of hard to diagnose problems over the internet, especially with no video/audio to go by. When you turn your key to ON without starting, do you hear the fuel pump prime? Are there any loose wires or holes/plugs that look like they should have things attached to them anywhere near the area that was worked on? Does the engine crank by hand? Does the AC pulley spin? |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score i do appreciate the replies. thank you all for chiming in. i am 100% sure the starter is working b/c i can hold the key in the start position and the starter continually tries to start the engine. there are no clicks or anything. of course this is only true until i have drained the battery, which i just charge back up to reading about 12.65 volts. i do know that if the clicking is still present when i get the car running it will likely be the VVT actuator. presently will all new parts installed in a getting around 500 psi fuel rail pressure and the injectors are shooting over 120 mg/cyc (i think the last log i did showed about 170 mg/cyc). its like the car cannot get passed the initial start up b/c it will not run. replaced all blade fuses in engine bay and most of them in driver dash. all fuses were checked and good. just as a side not, what is the green wire which connects on the bracket which bolts onto the TIP bracket which bolts onto the HPFP??? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What is the voltage on the battery while cranking? Needs to be at least 10v-ish to start. How are you measuring rail pressure? These cars flow ~75psi to the HPFP when cranking (before its sent to the rail).
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Solarsurge For This Useful Post: | danb (06-21-2018) |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score i believe it is a ground wire but i was wondering what it grounds. the connector on wire came apart and i had it rigged for a little while but now it has come completely off of the wire and the garage floor ate it. if i try grounding that wire to the engine i blow the 15 amp engine fuse in driver dash and the car will not start or crank (gives error code for no communication between dash and PCM) but if i connect the wire to the thing it connects to using a gold plated female electrical connector the car will crank but it will not start. here are some pics to show what i am talking about. let me know if this will not work. is there some way i can test this connection in KOEO scenario with a multimeter??? |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I am measuring all parameters with versatuner. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Rather than taking a picture of a random wire and a random bracket over two different sections of your engine bay, how about taking a picture of where you disconnected that so I can actually see where it came from. Our cars have the same engines, but not always the same exact connections and wire colors. On a Mazdaspeed 3, the ground wire I'm referring to is in the picture below. It's on the bracket right in front of the HPFP and the bolt next to it where the finger is pointed is where it should be fastened. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score i hope these pictures help. sorry for not being more informative with the previous photos. IMG_20180622_111408659.jpg pic. 1: this pic shows the ground solarsurge depicted. area has been cleaned and ground seems good. thoughts?? IMG_20180622_110803939_LL.jpg pic. 2: this pic shows the bracket/connector(i believe is a ground for something) i mentioned that the connector on the wire for came apart. IMG_20180622_110928147.jpg pic. 3: this pic shows the connector with rigged attempt to connect green wire to the bracket connection with a gold plated female wire connector. thoughts?? IMG_20180622_110949532.jpg pic. 4: this pic shows where the bracket connector with green wire bolts to the TIP bracket on the side of the fuel pump. i am adding a pic in that shows the same pic with the bracket connector bolted in. IMG_20180622_111035260.jpg thoughts?? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This is apparently one of those differences, unless it was just put back in the wrong spot at some point. My Gen2 Speed3 doesn’t have anything there, so I’m gonna defer to someone more familiar with the CX-7. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score im gonna do a tear down to the fuel rail and post pics. solarsurge, if you would look at them after posted and tell me your thoughts. two heads are better than one...the more the better... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Actually, after digging a little deeper, I found an image of the side of a Gen1, which should be the same as the CX-7, and it's in the same harness as the Coolant Temp Sensor. I believe that's the Gen1 Coolant Temp Sensor ground. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Either way, that's a part of the ignition electrical system and a very good reason why your car won't start. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just and FYI. The ground on the HPFP is for the fuel injector harness.
__________________ 2007 MS6- H&R Coilovers/ C-PE Catted DP/Corksport HPFP Internals/ AEM CAI/ ETS TMIC/ CPE Austenite Dual CBE/ CPE TIH/ Synapse Synchronic/ Freektuned/ AP Short Shifter/ AWR RMM and OEM TMM with CS Inserts/ Southbend Stage 2 Endurance/Stop Tech Slotted Rear and DBA T3 4000 Series Front with EBC Reds/CPE xFlex Rear Diff Mount/ Whiteline Rear Sway Bar/DSS Level 2.9 Rear Axles |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score new developments. with MAF sensor unplugged the car starts. no start with MAF connected. thoughts on this issue?? going to start a VVT replacements how to for CX7 as soon as parts come in. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Your MAF is shot. Get an OEM one.
__________________ 2007 MS6- H&R Coilovers/ C-PE Catted DP/Corksport HPFP Internals/ AEM CAI/ ETS TMIC/ CPE Austenite Dual CBE/ CPE TIH/ Synapse Synchronic/ Freektuned/ AP Short Shifter/ AWR RMM and OEM TMM with CS Inserts/ Southbend Stage 2 Endurance/Stop Tech Slotted Rear and DBA T3 4000 Series Front with EBC Reds/CPE xFlex Rear Diff Mount/ Whiteline Rear Sway Bar/DSS Level 2.9 Rear Axles |
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I believe there was a TSB regarding MAF ground. My memory isn’t that good I can recall off the top of my head, but you might want to look into it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score new MAF sensor, crank position sensor, full VVT replacement kit, and all washers, seals, and gaskets are in the mail on the way. spark plugs have been removed, cleaned, and re-installed. also cleaned coil pack springs. i cannot find anything about a MAF sensor ground. i will continue to look. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score IIRC, I think it was a pin on either the MAF or ECU harness. If the new MAF doesn’t solve your problem that is. Don’t go messin with harnesses until you know you have to. lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by Solarsurge; 06-27-2018 at 01:08 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score When my MAF went out on me I did a continuity check from each pin on the connector in the engine bay to the ECU connector. Might be worth checking to ensure you don't have a broken wire in the harness. Make sure its an OEM MAF you install.
__________________ 2007 MS6- H&R Coilovers/ C-PE Catted DP/Corksport HPFP Internals/ AEM CAI/ ETS TMIC/ CPE Austenite Dual CBE/ CPE TIH/ Synapse Synchronic/ Freektuned/ AP Short Shifter/ AWR RMM and OEM TMM with CS Inserts/ Southbend Stage 2 Endurance/Stop Tech Slotted Rear and DBA T3 4000 Series Front with EBC Reds/CPE xFlex Rear Diff Mount/ Whiteline Rear Sway Bar/DSS Level 2.9 Rear Axles |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score new denso OE MAF arrived today along with the new crankshaft position sensor, cam timing plate, TDC pin, and voltage gauge. the rest of the parts should be here soon, think the VVT kit will be next week. going to test MAF connections to wiring harness tomorrow before installing new MAF sensor. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score all new parts are in. timing set correctly. new MAF sensor. still have ticking sound from engine. believe it now to be the passenger side top engine mount (noticed some out of place looking fluid when working on installing timing parts, could be hydraulic fluid). also have same issue with no start (but cranks/turns over) when MAF plugged in, but with MAF unplugged the car starts and runs continuously unless turned off or i plug the MAF in while the engine is running. did testing on MAF connector with a multimeter. using the black wire as ground, i get a 12v reading from one wire, a 5v reading from another, and around 0.05mv readings from the other two wires. pls help.... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hey first post here gents I really need help my MS3 wont start no turning over no thing.... already changed the clutch safety switch, the relay in the fuse box, the battery, and today just changed the starter I've spent buco bucks trying to get it started I'm losing hope here any suggestions? I checked the starter fuse also and that is fine |
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