ALL NEW SSP Oil Catch Can Kit!!!! Ready to ship!

[TWOptSL0W]

Im still a bit concerned about how this is going to work since nothing is actually going to be moving the air I.e. vacuum. Please post up results when you have them

[djuosnteisn]

My built motor has been without crank case vac it's whole life:






I simply replaced the pcv valve with a 5/8" elbow, and vented both it and my valve cover to atmosphere through filters. The crank case side routed through a catch can still, just cause it sees a fair amount of slosh, and i didn't want the filter to clog too quickly. For the IM, i just welded the port shut:




Since then, i've done away with the filters completely, and now just drag tubes off both ports (crank case side still through a catch can to help with drips). After several thousand miles (more than 5k miles i would say), my filters became fairly clogged, causing oil to leak past the seals on my turbo (filters really aren't that necessary when you're venting both ports). So, being the lazy sob i am, i just removed em.



Here's my $.02 on the crank case venting subject. The stock system is primarily there for emissions reasons. The IM pulls fresh air in through the valve cover (metered air, post maf), collecting all the yucky nastiez and sucking them into the motor where they can be combusted. This "positive flow" also helps reduce oil contamination. Yay, perk.

But, like David said, once you go into boost, you're now limited to a single port, all the way at the top of the motor, to evacuate any crank pressure that builds up. Hence the reason why some of the higher hp cars are forced to run springs on their dip sticks to keep em from popping out (also, think about those poor cars running the restrictor pills on their VC's to help with the smoking k04's. While the pill does help increase crank vac at idle, it's also choking off the sole vent under boost).

While the stock setup is probably sufficient for ~300-330 whp... once you start to push beyond that, it's a good idea to start addressing some of the littler things like crank pressure. It doesn't get much simpler than VTA'ing both ports. And with a catch tank, i bet clogged filters isn't much of an issue.


It's a great option imo.

[Tokay444]

Cool.

What's your idle vac?

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Cool. What's your idle vac?

Normal. The ecu seems to have compensated without issue. You can test it yourself if you have an OCC by simply disconnecting one of the tubes and plugging it. Or simply clamping it with a c clamp or something.

[EdgeAutosport.com]

bump bump bump bump

[btstarcher]

Any idea when these will be available for Gen1? And pardon my ignorance but what's the difference (as far as why this wouldn't work in a Gen1)?

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by btstarcher Any idea when these will be available for Gen1? And pardon my ignorance but what's the difference (as far as why this wouldn't work in a Gen1)?

Let me find out for you. This will work on a gen one I just think the mounting location is the only difference at this point and time.

[EdgeAutosport.com]

@btstarcher the Gen won kits are good to go they just needed different mounting brackets but they came in so they just need to weld them on and they are good to go!

[btstarcher]

Now all I need is a running motor to put this on LOL

[deadlandxtreme]

They do a damn good job on the welds. I have '69 Triumph I need to send them. Lol

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[deadlandxtreme]

The drain plug kind of sucks. So I suggest anyone getting this to come up with a valve system to drain it. I was lucky enough to find a solenoid at work and connect it to the can. So now I have an electronically controlled oil catch can (I know overkill).
**Update - Here is the current setup now that I have a few fittings. The switch will be mounted in the engine bay as per my girlfriends request. I was going to mount it inside the car but she said that I would end up dumping it on the highway and pretending Im in the old Spy Hunter video game...holy crap..now I feel old

[BigjohnB20]

So if I understand this correctly, both what SSP said and what DJ explained, is that they are basically saying you WILL have blow by, especially at WOT and the more power/boost you are making the more you will likely have. So this kit is simply taking the positive pressure output, running it through a catch can to collect, and then the catch can is wide open (with filter) to atm. Ultimately not allowing the blow by to build up as positive pressure. The flow of air is actually handled by the blow by pressure (pushing out), where as in stock form, you (try to) rely on vac, either from the IM or intake, to pull the blow by gases out.

So with this kit, you will basially never see vacuum in the crankcase, but should also never see positive pressure of any measurable amount. If this is the case I would be cautious as a K04 car to use this design catch can. You may still have some issues with oil drain and the infamous smoking turbo. For a BT car pushing lots of boost I can see how this would work. I guess I still don't see where any performance increase come from unless you really do have a lot of positive CC pressure under boost that the pistons are doing work against as they move.

[btstarcher]

Is anyone else running these? I'm considering it but it's difficult justifying the price...

[btstarcher]

Well I went ahead and bought it. Guess I'll be the guinea pig.

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by btstarcher Well I went ahead and bought it. Guess I'll be the guinea pig.

I will make sure this goes out today good sir.

[Oldturbonoob]

Originally Posted by BigjohnB20 So if I understand this correctly, both what SSP said and what DJ explained, is that they are basically saying you WILL have blow by, especially at WOT and the more power/boost you are making the more you will likely have. So this kit is simply taking the positive pressure output, running it through a catch can to collect, and then the catch can is wide open (with filter) to atm. Ultimately not allowing the blow by to build up as positive pressure. The flow of air is actually handled by the blow by pressure (pushing out), where as in stock form, you (try to) rely on vac, either from the IM or intake, to pull the blow by gases out. So with this kit, you will basially never see vacuum in the crankcase, but should also never see positive pressure of any measurable amount. If this is the case I would be cautious as a K04 car to use this design catch can. You may still have some issues with oil drain and the infamous smoking turbo. For a BT car pushing lots of boost I can see how this would work. I guess I still don't see where any performance increase come from unless you really do have a lot of positive CC pressure under boost that the pistons are doing work against as they move.

This may be a foolish question but what issues of oil drain are talking about. Do you mean oil drain from the PCV or the turbo return lines or the valve cover breather? And how would a setup like this one contribute to smoking turbo?

I am not being a jerk here, I just really want to know the specifics of what you are talking about if you don't mind wasting a little time to elaborate.

[BigjohnB20]

Originally Posted by Oldturbonoob This may be a foolish question but what issues of oil drain are talking about. Do you mean oil drain from the PCV or the turbo return lines or the valve cover breather? And how would a setup like this one contribute to smoking turbo? I am not being a jerk here, I just really want to know the specifics of what you are talking about if you don't mind wasting a little time to elaborate.

Im no expert either, but here goes from how I understand the problem. The stock oil drain from the turbo is a gravity drain back into the oil pan. The PCV system is supposed to evacuate the crankcase of blow by gases by sucking through the PCV valve into the intake manifold and the gases are burned. The crankcase includes the oil baffles in the valve cover and this is connected to the breather port and your intake.

The idea is that under light load, the system is under the same vacuum as the IM and is sucking air through the breather all the way down and into the IM. The crankcase is under vac and the turbo has no problems draining oil back down. However, in OEM form there is really litte vac in the crankcase and sometimes there can actually be positive pressure. When this happens, the gravity oil drain doesnt drain well and oil backs up at the turbo. It eventually seeps past the seals and into your exhaust and there is the infamous smoking turbo.

The way I understand this catch can is that the crankcase will never be under vacuum. It shouldn't see positive pressure either, basically at atm. Whether there will be an oil drain issue or not I can't say. Just that IMO this catch can is more suited towards the BT guys vs teh K04. I would run a traditional style catch can personally on stock turbo.

[Oldturbonoob]

Originally Posted by BigjohnB20 Im no expert either, but here goes from how I understand the problem. The stock oil drain from the turbo is a gravity drain back into the oil pan. The PCV system is supposed to evacuate the crankcase of blow by gases by sucking through the PCV valve into the intake manifold and the gases are burned. The crankcase includes the oil baffles in the valve cover and this is connected to the breather port and your intake. The idea is that under light load, the system is under the same vacuum as the IM and is sucking air through the breather all the way down and into the IM. The crankcase is under vac and the turbo has no problems draining oil back down. However, in OEM form there is really litte vac in the crankcase and sometimes there can actually be positive pressure. When this happens, the gravity oil drain doesnt drain well and oil backs up at the turbo. It eventually seeps past the seals and into your exhaust and there is the infamous smoking turbo. The way I understand this catch can is that the crankcase will never be under vacuum. It shouldn't see positive pressure either, basically at atm. Whether there will be an oil drain issue or not I can't say. Just that IMO this catch can is more suited towards the BT guys vs teh K04. I would run a traditional style catch can personally on stock turbo.

Ok, I have what your thinking down pretty well now. Positive pressure would cause a drainage problem, but no pressure shouldn't I would guess unless the drain line from the turbo is insufficient.

I am just trying to wrap my head around it. From what I know of much older N/A engines, the valve covers are vented via breathers to the atmosphere and vacuum is only important on the fuel delivery side of the house. If the PCV in a newer engine closed under positive pressure and with a turbo that would be most of the time, wouldn't it be better to vent it to the atmosphere and allow it to stay opened all the time.

The other day I cleaned my valves and when I was done with assembly I left the car on jacks and started it up and romped on it a few times to burn out any left over walnut media and carbon chunks that I might have introduced into the combustion chambers. I turned it off and layed underneath for a good two minutes looking for leaks or anything else(just bought the car used). I heard the PCV open and basically fart into the intake manifold well after the engine was shut down, meaning while it was running...the damn thing was closed. Maybe mine is defective or maybe the slight pressure caused by having a turbo keeps it closed when it should be open. Or maybe it was something else I was hearing, who knows. Either way it seems to me that zero pressure all the time is better than positive pressure most of the time. I guess it also depends on how you drive.

Thanks for the info.

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Bump who wants one?

[Oldturbonoob]

I ordered one. My plan here is that with both pcv and valve cover outlet bypassed to the can that I won't have to delete the EGR. I do a lot of highway driving and I am a bit nervous about deleting the EGR due to it's function at sustained rpms.

I would think that with a reduction of blowby on the intake side that a reduction of carbon on the exhaust side will be seen meaning that the EGR won't introduce much anymore (or at least I hope).

[Oldturbonoob]

So I just received the 2009 and prior version of the catch can. It has a very different bracket and no mounting hardware. I imagine that means I will be reusing some bolts in that location. Also the elbos that come with it are not elbows at all, they are U shaped routing the tubes over the top of the can.

Quality looks good as noted previously. I wouldn't mind some specific install instructions, but I'm sure when I get the chance to put it in it should be relatively obvious where it goes. The bracket extends off the side of the can an into an L shape with two mounting holes at the top and bottom of the L. By looking at pictures of mount beam with the bumper off another car I think it will sit lower than the 2010+ version but only time will tell.

[btstarcher]

Originally Posted by Oldturbonoob So I just received the 2009 and prior version of the catch can. It has a very different bracket and no mounting hardware. I imagine that means I will be reusing some bolts in that location. Also the elbos that come with it are not elbows at all, they are U shaped routing the tubes over the top of the can. Quality looks good as noted previously. I wouldn't mind some specific install instructions, but I'm sure when I get the chance to put it in it should be relatively obvious where it goes. The bracket extends off the side of the can an into an L shape with two mounting holes at the top and bottom of the L. By looking at pictures of mount beam with the bumper off another car I think it will sit lower than the 2010+ version but only time will tell.

Could you post a pic?

[Oldturbonoob]

here you go.

[Oldturbonoob]

Here's one that isn't cut off.

[btstarcher]

Dammit that's what I thought. They sent me a genpu one.

[anavrinIV]

just wondering, but for anyone who has one of these and can look inside it, is there any kind of filtering material or baffling in the can? From my research it seems to be unnecessary in a vented can but I'm wondering what this particular company did.
@btstarcher @Oldturbonoob @deadlandxtreme

[Oldturbonoob]

Here it is installed. This is the 09 and earlier version. It replaces the horn bracket or at least that is how I installed it since there were no directions for this version. No need to remove the bumper at all. Just undo the screws for the plastic cover on the driver's side and use a bungee cord to hold it out of the way.

[Oldturbonoob]

Also you will need to either bend or remove the welded on brace that juts out off the bumper beam. The only thing attached to it was a tie for the horn wire. I just twisted the brace off with some vice grips.

[anavrinIV]

Originally Posted by Oldturbonoob Here it is installed. This is the 09 and earlier version. It replaces the horn bracket or at least that is how I installed it since there were no directions for this version. No need to remove the bumper at all. Just undo the screws for the plastic cover on the driver's side and use a bungee cord to hold it out of the way.

did you happen to look inside the can before you installed it? is there any kind of metal mesh or anything (other than the grating just below the filter)?

[Oldturbonoob]

Just an empty can. It is large, so time between drain shouldn't be a problem. I warmed up the engine to normal operating temperature and raced it at around 4000 Rpm for one minute three times. I witnessed a lot of off gassing from the breather on the can which leads me to believe that there won't be as much material to drain since most of it escapes....but the smell wasn't pleasant...brings back memories of a much older engine bay

[Oldturbonoob]

One last thing I forgot to mention...you will need to remove a plastic shield from that area. You could try to work around it but it was too frustrating to me so I removed the pop washer, plastic fastener and one bolt. I didn't replace it. There is already a shield on the fenderwell and the underbody, so I don't know what it was there for and the passenger side didn't have a duplicate (I checked for piece of mind). It might also help me with pulling in cooler air when I decide what intake to go with. If I go with a CAI then the area is already opened up or I could tube from there if I go with a SRI...my car is mostly stock at this point...just an empty second cat and clean valves so far.

[Oldturbonoob]

This is the drain after all is put back together...very small hole and easy to access with the car down on four wheels...thought you would want to see that. Might help with the decision to get this or not.

[Oldturbonoob]

Oh and install difficulty isn't too bad...I did this all after dinner. I was full and happy so it went a tad slower than it could have. And Eric at Edge did what he could to try to get some instructions from SSP. I would definitely order from Edge again...and no they haven't asked me to say any of this.

[anavrinIV]

Originally Posted by Oldturbonoob Just an empty can.

gracias, exactly what I needed to know.

[randino69]

Hey guys,

I really appreciate all of your input about the OCC on this thread. I see that only a small few have installed it. I see quite a few JBR, MD and some other ones people have installed. From my own insignificant observations, it seems that an OCC is an OCC in the end. I have a 2010 GenPu going through getting tuned with @Lex at this moment, and am fully bolted outside of having a Manifold. I just want some way to see the level of crap in the OCC, and an easy way to drain that same crap sitting in it. JBR, with the black everything, seems hard to see anything, so what are your thoughts guys?

Thanks for your input on this thread as it helps a lot! Going WMI shortly too! Woot!

Randy

[anavrinIV]

Originally Posted by randino69 Hey guys, I really appreciate all of your input about the OCC on this thread. I see that only a small few have installed it. I see quite a few JBR, MD and some other ones people have installed. From my own insignificant observations, it seems that an OCC is an OCC in the end. I have a 2010 GenPu going through getting tuned with @Lex at this moment, and am fully bolted outside of having a Manifold. I just want some way to see the level of crap in the OCC, and an easy way to drain that same crap sitting in it. JBR, with the black everything, seems hard to see anything, so what are your thoughts guys? Thanks for your input on this thread as it helps a lot! Going WMI shortly too! Woot! Randy

the matt damond setup has a sight tube on the side of the can, but the rest don't. the way to really test how much you'll catch is to just drain it once in a while to see.

another option is to put your own together using a universal can with a built in sight tube or dip stick. The reason I asked about the can internals is that it's easy to just get a universal can, but I wanted to know if the vented cans have any kind of condensation material. It appears that they don't.

[Tokay444]

Sure's oil rig has a dip stick.

[randino69]

That SURE unit looks pretty nice. I cannot believe you have to add like 4 different pieces just to make it a complete unit. You have to make sure you buy enough hose, get the brackets, the can and the drain valve to make it easier to drain in the future. Kind of surprising to see it set up like that.

Thanks a lot guys for the input!

[Tokay444]

I just paired it with an MD instal kit.

[kpsoerensen]

So I just got under my car to install the SSP occ. I guess I can't install it with CAI. shit. Also...it seems near impossible to do the install without removing the IM?

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