ALL NEW SSP Oil Catch Can Kit!!!! Ready to ship!

[btstarcher]

I can't find where to mount this thing...

[btstarcher]

I only received instructions for the Pu....

[Mikey]

You are in the right spot. I have mine tilted a little with the bottom screwed in around that area and zip tied the top..

[Doucems6]

Hey guys, I've recently set up a vented catch can (not SSP) that has a single line with both the cc and vc tee'd into one port on the can (capped mani and TIP pipe). and run into some smoking issues, and decent amount of oil consumption.

I have an original ko4 that has rarely ever smoked with 150 000kms, until the installation of my vented catch can. Heres what I have noticed. I deleted the vtcs , blocked the egr , cleaned the valves and installed this can all at once so there's many variables. But all I can say is the car has never run smoother or felt healthier! AND NO TAILPIPE SMOKE for about a week and tons of idling and wot runs. The vta filter did however smoke alot... but the car ran absolutely flawless. Until -20*C ... which I believe has started causing most of these problems, (anyone not seeing below freezing temps may have pooling issues in the lines causing a blockage?)


The can had filled up in less then a week due to condensation, oil,fuel...and had frozen solid. The car puked so much smoke I knew there had to be something wrong. Assuming my ko4 had 150 000 km those seals would be the leakage point( no visable signs of oil leakage under the car or around other major gaskets) . After dumping the can and insuring that there wasnt a pooling area in the lines leading to the can and temps rasied again, the car had stopped smoking, and stopped consuming oil. Ive been running a small amount 25% of the cans capacity with antifreeze to ensure the contaminants wont freeze and dumping it every few days.

I will also be switching to a BNR 3 with all supporting mods in about 2 weeks , due to both excessive shaft play and "pooling oil in my throttle body and intercooler. but im convinced that most of these smoking issues are due to pooling/freezing in the lines or a full/frozen cc.


Taking into consideration that the stock pcv hose runs on almost a 45* angle i think the choice of can/line positioning may be crucial.


heres a picture of my set up.


Thanks ,

Evan

[btstarcher]

The mounting bracket lines up perfectly in that first photo; it's hard to believe that isn't where it was designed to go. But the filter interferes with the headlight. If only it was just a hair lower...

[Mikey]

damn my axle went out today so my car is at a buddies garage or I would take my bumper down for you and show you how i have it. Same spot but tilted toward the back of the car if that makes since. I use that bottom bolt that is right there.

[btstarcher]

Yeah, I have a picture of mine somewhere; it sounds like what I ended up doing.

[pwned]

Has anyone had oil burning issues other than @kpsoerensen; Im thining of going this route very soon.

[pwned]

Originally Posted by JP@edgeautosport.com Hey guys, I asked David @ SSP to give us clarification. Here's his answer. Ok, let me explain this a bit. Yes, we are cutting off both sources of vac on the crank case. Now, let me explain why, I will use the example of the EvoX as it has an identical PCV system as the MS3, even down to the hose size. During Idle and cruise (out of boost, meaning less than 0psi). Both hoses are pulling a VAC on the crankcase, which is what they are supposed to do. Now, the second you hit any positive pressure in the intake manifold, the PCV Check Valve (located in the green fitting on the block) closes. Now, you have only the intake to valve cover PCV hose doing any work at boost pressure over 0. Now, we can relate this to the MZR platform with our testing from the Evos...During a wot pull the intake pcv hose is simply NOT ENOUGH. On my testing car here, I welded a 1/8" npt bung on the valve cover and installed a boost reference (pressure logger setup), at a wot pull on STOCK TURBO on e85 (around 330whp on our mustang dyno) the crank case still has 5 psi of POSITIVE PRESSURE in it. Positive pressure = loss of power. Now, lets do some reviewing here. Do you buy this product solely for performance gains? NO. What you buy this product for is for the job it is made to do, catch crap. Notice how the hose back into your intake "bleeds" alot of oil and contaminates back into your turbo? Now it cannot possibly do that. Ever take your throttle body off and notice all that amazing sludge in there? Yeah, 90% of that is from the PCV, 10% is probably EGR related. Take the intake manifold off and look at those valves? Ewwwww. So, what you do? I would purchase this kit that will allow for 0psi (out testing showed less than .1psi in the crank case with the kit installed, the evo kit is identical in overall design and hose inner diameter) in the crank case at WOT (making more power as a bonus, how much? not sure as I have yet to do the testing on the MZR platform. On a 330whp evoX on e85, around 10whp. At 450whp, 22whp gains) as well as an EGR delete kit (We offer 2 different kits unlike most on the market) and clean your valves while you are in there. A nice set of thermal spacers to top it off and maybe injector seals if on BT. Put some miles on the setup, some real miles, 20K+ go back in there rip off the intake manifold and notice how clean everything still is (assuming your turbo isn't shot and spitting oil in the IC piping). I can understand how it is hard to grasp the concept, but we have done enough testing to back the product, I promise. Our evo kits are the number one catch can kit on the market, best seller, results, quality, etc hands down. Please note: The more crank case pressure you are developing and now venting into the can, the more power you can free up. We have noticed that on the Evos around the 300-350whp range, they are running around .2-.3afr leaner up top (yes, that means the can is working). On larger turbos, even more. What does this mean to you? Install, proceed with pulls in caution, tune accordingly if needed. I hope this clear up some of the doubtfulness of the effectiveness on the product. Feel free to give me a call directly here at the shop if you have any further questions.

Does the pcv have to be gutted? What if it is not?

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by pwned Does the pcv have to be gutted? What if it is not?

No PCV doesn't have to be changed.

[btstarcher]

My OCC is constantly smoking. It smokes at idle and on the highway. I drained it after 150 miles and got a pretty good sized puddle of crap. Is this normal?

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by btstarcher My OCC is constantly smoking. It smokes at idle and on the highway. I drained it after 150 miles and got a pretty good sized puddle of crap. Is this normal?

It's not too uncommon with vented catch cans to get a little smoke at idle because when the oil pressure descreases at low rpms, the seals in the turbo aren't getting sealed so tight so it has the possibility to be slightly leaky but once pressure hits it, it should be fine. It might mean your turbo was a little weak before you put it on and now the lack of vacuum has exposed its leaky seals. I'm not saying that you need to buy a new turbo to fix it but I wouldn't be surprised if that fixes it. That's just an idea. Is it smoking just cruising on the highway or smoking through the RPM range at WOT?

[btstarcher]

Turbo is brand new. Also I'm using my old Bnoon bolt from my old turbo. When it's cold, I see lots of black smoke in my rearview during hard acceleration.

The catch can smokes while cruising and at idle.

[dot584]

I don't know what his screen name is off hand but Jason and I talked about his plan for a occ setup that had 4 ports and also some valve cover modifications. The way he described it made it seem like it would solve all these problems and he has been doing it on his drag cars for years with 1000+ hp, so he knows it works. If someone can mention him he may share his idea, I think it's like SFWDxxxx, not sure of the numbers.

Sent from my Incredible 2 using Tapatalk 2

[btstarcher]

Drained the can again after another 1400 miles and got about a half quart of yellowish nastiness...guessing it's watery oil? With some fuel too probably. Why am I getting so much in there? I've seen people say they didn't have anything after 3k miles.

[dot584]

Originally Posted by btstarcher Drained the can again after another 1400 miles and got about a half quart of yellowish nastiness...guessing it's watery oil? With some fuel too probably. Why am I getting so much in there? I've seen people say they didn't have anything after 3k miles.

It has to do with temperature I'm pretty sure. When it's cold outside the hot oil travels down the tubes and somehow separates into those layers you are seeing. I was getting the same thing. I moved my catch can into the engine bay where it is hotter and I get more black sludge now than I get orange/clear liquid because less of it is separating. I don't really think it matters that much tho, my main reason for moving my can was shorter tube routing. I hardly get half a water bottle of fluid from my catch can over 3.5k miles when I change oil btw. Only 32k miles on the car, catch can has been there since 14k.

Sent from my Incredible 2 using Tapatalk 2

[wettoast]

Im in the market for an OCC for my 2007 Speed 6, when can i expect this to be available?

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by btstarcher Turbo is brand new. Also I'm using my old Bnoon bolt from my old turbo. When it's cold, I see lots of black smoke in my rearview during hard acceleration. The catch can smokes while cruising and at idle.

This doesn't concern me that much. All these cars do that with varying amounts of black smoke from running richer when you got WOT, as do many other cars. But the actual catch can smokes you say?

Originally Posted by btstarcher Drained the can again after another 1400 miles and got about a half quart of yellowish nastiness...guessing it's watery oil? With some fuel too probably. Why am I getting so much in there? I've seen people say they didn't have anything after 3k miles.

I wouldn't say that's a ton of fluid but at least you know it's working. All that would be in your intake. If you don't have ANYTHING after 3k that would concern me maybe even a little more.

Originally Posted by wettoast Im in the market for an OCC for my 2007 Speed 6, when can i expect this to be available?

Unfortunately, I don't believe SSP will be making a specific kit although I'm sure you could buy an MS3 kit and find a way to mount it or build slightly different brackets.

[btstarcher]

Yeah, the OCC smokes at idle and while cruising.

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by btstarcher Yeah, the OCC smokes at idle and while cruising.

David from Kozmic is calling me tonight and I'll bring this up and see what he says.

[btstarcher]

Thanks. I'm thinking it's normal, but it's kinda aggravating; looks like smoke pouring out from under the hood. I've caught a few concerned stares.

[EdgeAutosport.com]

We have 3 Gen 2 Kozmicmotorsports/SSP catch cans in stock. They are boxed up and waiting to be sent to their new home. Who wants provide them that home?

[deadlandxtreme]

Originally Posted by EdgeAutosport.com We have 3 Gen 2 Kozmicmotorsports/SSP catch cans in stock. They are boxed up and waiting to be sent to their new home. Who wants provide them that home?

Would you suggest running the SSP can with say a sealed JBR can system and a PERM plate?

[btstarcher]

I'm not sure that's necessary, but it might be nice to have the extra insurance. After reading that article on Perm's site I'm not completely sold on the 2-OCC idea. Why wouldn't a single vented can work just as well? Or almost as well?

[EdgeAutosport.com]

A single vented can will work fine as will a single non vented can. However, when you run a vented can, you will be losing vacuum. Running the PERM PCV plate and two cans (one vented, one not) is the best of both worlds. You will keep vacuum the same as well as provide your care with adequate crankcase ventilation.

[btstarcher]

I still had plenty of vacuum cruising; it was slightly lower than stock, I think 18.7 mm/Hg (not sure what the conversion factor is, but IIRC stock was somewhere around 20).

[deadlandxtreme]

Originally Posted by EdgeAutosport.com A single vented can will work fine as will a single non vented can. However, when you run a vented can, you will be losing vacuum. Running the PERM PCV plate and two cans (one vented, one not) is the best of both worlds. You will keep vacuum the same as well as provide your care with adequate crankcase ventilation.

Well damn. Time to spend more money.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by btstarcher I still had plenty of vacuum cruising; it was slightly lower than stock, I think 18.7 mm/Hg (not sure what the conversion factor is, but IIRC stock was somewhere around 20).

That is manifold vacuum. You really need crankcase vacuum as well or seals will start to leak. With just a single vented can there is actually about 2psi of positive pressure in the crank case at cruise, where as if you run a standard MD can or JBR can you can keep vacuum on the cc at idle and cruise.

I have run several setups and 2 catch cans is the way to go.

Sent from your couch

Originally Posted by deadlandxtreme Would you suggest running the SSP can with say a sealed JBR can system and a PERM plate?

To add to this, the perm plate or an extra port in the VC is the way to go. The pcv valve acts as a restriction in a vented can setup, if you use the plate, or extra port, you have the best of both worlds

Sent from your couch

[btstarcher]

Thanks for the correction; I guess I never thought about crankcase pressure vs. manifold pressure. How can you measure the vacuum in the crankcase? Where do you get that number from?

[btstarcher]

Originally Posted by atvfreek That is manifold vacuum. You really need crankcase vacuum as well or seals will start to leak. With just a single vented can there is actually about 2psi of positive pressure in the crank case at cruise, where as if you run a standard MD can or JBR can you can keep vacuum on the cc at idle and cruise. I have run several setups and 2 catch cans is the way to go.

One other question: since I was running this single vented can setup while breaking in a new motor, could that have possibly caused any issues? I'll probably be getting a sealed can soon, but I don't know if it will be before my engine is fixed or not.

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by btstarcher Thanks for the correction; I guess I never thought about crankcase pressure vs. manifold pressure. How can you measure the vacuum in the crankcase? Where do you get that number from?

You would have to run a gauge to a tap at the PCV plate

Originally Posted by btstarcher One other question: since I was running this single vented can setup while breaking in a new motor, could that have possibly caused any issues? I'll probably be getting a sealed can soon, but I don't know if it will be before my engine is fixed or not.

I wouldn't think that it would cause any major issues, but supposedly the CC vacuum does help with ring seating.

[btstarcher]

That's what I was wondering; even my "good" cylinders weren't that good. Dan was seeing over 200 on his, maybe closer to 210. I was still around 182.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by btstarcher That's what I was wondering; even my "good" cylinders weren't that good. Dan was seeing over 200 on his, maybe closer to 210. I was still around 182.

You also have to consider that there is a difference between compression tester guages. If you are not using the same one, his might read higher. What is important is how close your compression of each cylinder is. I think anything above 170 is okey dokey.

I also had a lot of crancase fumes pouring out of my SSP can when I was running mine. If I were to do it again, I would run a check valve on each line going to the can to prevent crancake gasses from just spewing the entire time the motor was running. I am trying to figure out how to redo my setup with the PERM PCV Plate so that I can also have vacuum in the crancase while uitlizing my SSP Can.

[btstarcher]

LMAO! Yeah, my three "good" cylinders were 182, 185, and 195. Since it's a new engine with 10.5:1 CR pistons they really should be higher. I verified these numbers with 2 other guages.

If I see 170 on all 4 cylinders when I get it back I'm taking it back to get it done right, and that motherfucker will pay for all of it.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by btstarcher LMAO! Yeah, my three "good" cylinders were 182, 185, and 195. Since it's a new engine with 10.5:1 CR pistons they really should be higher. I verified these numbers with 2 other guages. If I see 170 on all 4 cylinders when I get it back I'm taking it back to get it done right, and that motherfucker will pay for all of it.

I don't know what to say bro. If my bad luck was anywhere close to yours, I would probably go buy a mid 90's civic dx with low miles and just say fuck it.