06 MS6 - Stock Block/Internals Build - Pushing The Limits

[Juschiln19]

Update - fuel pump issues

So I replaced the fuel pressure relief valve. Now it goes into boost. And it hit 1800 to 1900 psi while in boost. But now it rough at idle. And I'm getting codes for lean at idle. And lean off idle.

When I do a idle log it shows the fuel pressure bouncing 10 to 15 psi. And the idle is also bouncing around. And when I'm driving and I hold the throttle to a certain position. It goes and then after a few seconds all the sudden it picks up like it use too like the fuel pump goes back to normal or something. And when u drive out of boost it still feels like it hesitates a little.

I pulled and re-oiled the hpfp and no change.... I'm lost. Is it the Autotech internals, the hpfp it's self and or maybe the in tank fuel pump... I have idle logs, 3rd gear logs, 4th gear logs.

On a side note I noticed in my logs my boost reading are off. Like I know I hit 17 psi and the log says 10psi. I know with versatuner you are supposed to change the settings for the map sensor. But I did that and at idle it's reading 5 lbs of boost. Ummm noo. I have to still figure this out..

[Juschiln19]

Here's a few logs of first start up after 2nd hpfp rebuild, couple idle logs, and a couple drive logs so I can try and see what changes from when I drives to when it picks up all the sudden.

start up after 2nd rebuild.zip

8 27 17 idle first drive 2nd hpfp rebuild.zip

8 27 17 idle after drive.zip

8 27 17 drive.zip

I'll upload the 3rd and 4th gear pulls tomarrow

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 I know with versatuner you are supposed to change the settings for the map sensor. But I did that and at idle it's reading 5 lbs of boost. Ummm noo. I have to still figure this out..

Did you also change the MAP sensor settings in the logging screen? Click the "Customize" option for the MAP PID and make sure you have the right MAP sensor configured there.

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by mituc Did you also change the MAP sensor settings in the logging screen? Click the "Customize" option for the MAP PID and make sure you have the right MAP sensor configured there.

I did, but the boost gauge reads -20 (vacuum) at idle and at the exact same time in versatuner the map sensor (set to bosch 3.5) reads +5(boost) at idle. But it makes no sense.

Because when u drive it, she will go into boost and will hit 18 to 19 lbs on the boost guage and besides a little hesitation it runs like it should. So I know it's just the logging part that is off... so I'm not sure at this point and when I last drove it, it is hitting air to fuel of 17 to19. Way rich. Which is so werid because I'm have a fuel issuse yet it targeting super rich air to fuel.

Ok so i tried a few things. So just to make sure I pulled the map sensor and cleaned it with maf cleaner, I also checked and drained the occ's (what was werid is the drivers side occ usely has more then the passenger side [passenger side usely don't have much at all] but it was opposite. The passenger side occ has more oil) just thought that was werid .

I also checked that the intake was on good. Just things that I may have not put back right when i did the hpfp and the pressure relief valve or anything like that.

But after all that at idle the fuel pressure is bouncing for like 415 to 430 psi at idle.. and its still not right.. I'm thinking in tank fuel pump.

I emailed the log to myself but I guess the battery died before it sent so I have the logs but I get them up asap

[Juschiln19]

Here's a few logs. 2 are of idle and the other one has the 4th gear pull and 3rd gear pull before I rebuilt the hpfp the last time but it has same symptoms..

VersaTuner Logs 8 29.zip

VersaTuner Logs8 29 2.zip

[mituc]

Phoken post the .csv logs if you want real help from all the community. There are quite a few people around here who can tell you wottaphok is going on but don't have VT or not the VT for MS6.

[mituc]

Ok, so back to your issue after anal-izing your logs: I see you're logging for the factory MAP sensor, is it also calibrated for the stock MAP sensor in the tune? I'm only trying to get a base for the whole problem and understand if we're just wasting our time here on a non-issue.

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by mituc Phoken post the .csv logs if you want real help from all the community. There are quite a few people around here who can tell you wottaphok is going on but don't have VT or not the VT for MS6.

My bad bro. Rookie mistake. Thanks for posting the .csv 's for me! Totally spaced.. lol

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by mituc Ok, so back to your issue after anal-izing your logs: I see you're logging for the factory MAP sensor, is it also calibrated for the stock MAP sensor in the tune? I'm only trying to get a base for the whole problem and understand if we're just wasting our time here on a non-issue.

So I went and changed the map sensor settings before that log was taken and the map settings are right. And I checked the tune. It all looks right... So is my versatuner messing up?

20170901_150425.jpg

20170901_161329.mp4

I actually went threw and tried each of the map settings to see which one would get me closer to the actual reading i normally see on my boost gauge sitting at idle. But all are off. The boost pressure reading is closest to guage while at idle but once you drive and hit full boost it says you only hit 2 psi. I evan pulled the map sensor and cleaned it. Same results. I checked the tune and its right.


So here is the original base tune.
Branden B BNR S4 Base Tune v1.00.zip

And this one is the same tune after I modified it. Changed: absolute rev limiter 7300rpm,(fuel cut)rev limiter 7700 rpm and fan control to turn on a few degrees colder on the coolant temp

Branden B BNR S4 Base Tune - $ v1.01.zip

When I hit the rev limiter. I had the same base tune but i changed: absolute rev limiter & (fuel cut)rev limiter to 6800 rpm and had the same fans settings..

I realize my mistake( changing both to a too low setting and having the same settings on both.) That's why I fixed it in the tune I posted.

So before I took the last log. I put the original base tune back on. Just in case it was something else I did that's messing with it. But it drive great before I hit the rev limiter ...

[Fstrnyou]

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 ...it is hitting air to fuel of 17 to19. Way rich.

FWIW: If you think 17-19 AFR is way rich, you need to take several steps back and do some reading.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 So I went and changed the map sensor settings before that log was taken and the map settings are right. And I checked the tune. It all looks right... So is my versatuner messing up?

Judging by the values you have in there versatuner is working ok. the CS 3.5BAR MAP sensor has the values printed on itself, there is absolutely no way you can get those wrong. However, somehow you did. Put these ones in:
- MAP Scale additive (all 3): 4.26:
- MAP Scale Base multiplier (also all 3): 210;
- MAP Scale Second Multiplier: 0.35

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 And this one is the same tune after I modified it. Changed: absolute rev limiter 7300rpm,(fuel cut)rev limiter 7700 rpm and fan control to turn on a few degrees colder on the coolant temp When I hit the rev limiter. I had the same base tune but i changed: absolute rev limiter & (fuel cut)rev limiter to 6800 rpm and had the same fans settings..

There is absolutely no way the factory pistons will withstand the heat of 7000rpm rev limit repeatedly, 7300 or 7700 is totally unrealistic because you don't have a built head with stronger valve springs and such (which are recommended when revving past like 7200).
I recommend leaving the rev limit at 6700, the BNR S4 will not do much past that anyway.

P.S.: I also checked your tune. I like seeing how the rev limiter is set to 7700, absolute rev limiter which has nothing to do with anything (maybe with some table scaling) set to 7300 and the knock retard MAX rpm is left at 6700. I mean, maybe you really don't care... but I thought I should mention that.
P.S.2: you also give it a lot of VVT in the upper RPM range... are you sure you know what you're doing? The boost control part is total shit as well, WGDC adjustments based on temp is totalled, and a few other things. Ignition and load are decent even if with a BNR the engine can do a lot more. The fuelling part is almost ok, if you left those knock tables alone.

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou FWIW: If you think 17-19 AFR is way rich, you need to take several steps back and do some reading.

Your right that's not way rich at all its leaning on the lean side of 14 afr

Your right tho. I don't know as much as I need to, to fully take on self tuning. That's why when I did the bnr s4 upgrade I went and got a base tune from a local tuner. And I was supposed to get a full dyno tune, but it didn't work out do to issues with getting the tuners pc to recognize the obd cable as a vehicle interface device. And I haven't had the funds to get back to the dyno and the cars been giving me hell recently..

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by mituc Judging by the values you have in there versatuner is working ok. the CS 3.5BAR MAP sensor has the values printed on itself, there is absolutely no way you can get those wrong. However, somehow you did. Put these ones in: - MAP Scale additive (all 3): 4.26: - MAP Scale Base multiplier (also all 3): 210; - MAP Scale Second Multiplier: 0.35

I don't have the cork sport 3.5 map. I have the Bosch 3.5 Bar Map Sensor. And with that said. When i looked it up i found these scalers for the bosch 3.5 here :
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...pgrade-128850/ (on post #12 )

Screenshot_2017-09-02-01-17-41-1.jpg

They seem to be right. But something is still not right. But it only seems to be on the logging side. If the map sensor was really reading that far off it wouldn't drive right at all, like spit and sputter on steroids!! Wouldn't it? I would imagine so. So that's why to me it seems it has to be logging related.


[/QUOTE]
There is absolutely no way the factory pistons will withstand the heat of 7000rpm rev limit repeatedly, 7300 or 7700 is totally unrealistic because you don't have a built head with stronger valve springs and such (which are recommended when revving past like 7200).
I recommend leaving the rev limit at 6700, the BNR S4 will not do much past that anyway. [/QUOTE]

You are absolutely right. The head and valves won't take it. I don't normally shift any higher then 6600 to 6800 rpm. I'm not planning on hitting the rev limiter at all. I just want the security of knowing if I get districted (going around people or whatever the case maybe) I want to know it won't go to deep in the red and cause exactly that the valves or spring to break.

That's why I wanted to move it down to 7000 ish. It's not set to 6700rpm like u saying. I know because I've gone in the red accidently twice since I've own it and I've gone to 7300 ish. That's the whole reason for trying to change it, so it would stop before I got too deep in red. Not sure what stock rev limiter setting is. Don't want to find out on the road.. that's why I set it to 6800 rpm originally. But that's right where I shift. I aim to shift at 6500 but by the time it happens it's more around 6700 to 6800 rpm... I was shooting for right above where I shift. But it was just a hair too low.

[/QUOTE]
P.S.: I also checked your tune. I like seeing how the rev limiter is set to 7700, absolute rev limiter which has nothing to do with anything (maybe with some table scaling) set to 7300 and the knock retard MAX rpm is left at 6700. I mean, maybe you really don't care... but I thought I should mention that. [/QUOTE]

I'm not gunna lie, I never looked up on how to change the rev limiter. I figured it should be pretty stright forward. But then again. Maybe not. Lol I figured the absolute rev limiter was the actual rev limiter(like you rpm would go to said point and bounce) and the one that just says "rev limiter" is the fuel cut one. So which one is the actual rev limiter that won't fuel cut? I'll look it up...

[/QUOTE] P.S.2: you also give it a lot of VVT in the upper RPM range... are you sure you know what you're doing? The boost control part is total shit as well, WGDC adjustments based on temp is totalled, and a few other things. Ignition and load are decent even if with a BNR the engine can do a lot more. The fuelling part is almost ok, if you left those knock tables alone.[/QUOTE]

I took a step back when I did the bnr s4. I'm not confident enough to self tune yet. Especially going big turbo so the few guides I would go off of are for stock get up. So once a big turbo steps in those write ups numbers and what not are off.

So I just called up a local tuner and got a base map($100. Deposit for base map and to hold dyno slot) and scheduled a dyno tune($350.). And I got the base map. I haven't touched it besides changing the rev limiter and the fan control. He told me it was basicly a Ap stage 2 map converted to versatuner. He said it was his go to for a safe big turbo tune to get the car to the dyno. I couldn't find a local tuner that uses versatuner. So the guy i used works at Edge Autosports. And the guy said when he started tuning he learned on load based tuning, so It wouldn't be a problem... so apparently I need to get to the dyno sooner then I think... fukkkkkk

Hey man, I appreciate you giving it to me stright. I just looked at the page again that has the bosch 3.5 scalers and where it shows the off set scaler. It says "-12.5 offset as a starting point" so i guess I'll mess with that and see if that fixes it.. lol I still think it's a logging thing because it drove great before I changed and hit the rev limiter... plus I still have a hesitation/fuel issue....

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 They seem to be right. But something is still not right. But it only seems to be on the logging side. If the map sensor was really reading that far off it wouldn't drive right at all, like spit and sputter on steroids!! Wouldn't it? I would imagine so. So that's why to me it seems it has to be logging related.

Ok, if it's the Bosch 3.5BAR MAP then the values are right.

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 That's why I wanted to move it down to 7000 ish. It's not set to 6700rpm like u saying.

The knock retard max rpm is set at 6700 like I said, while the rev limiter is set at 7700. Good luck with that.
Also, the cold engine rev limit and rev limit when not in gear (which most probably unkn 1 and 2 rev limits are) make no sense to be set that high.

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 I'm not gunna lie, I never looked up on how to change the rev limiter. I figured it should be pretty stright forward. But then again. Maybe not. Lol I figured the absolute rev limiter was the actual rev limiter(like you rpm would go to said point and bounce) and the one that just says "rev limiter" is the fuel cut one. So which one is the actual rev limiter that won't fuel cut? I'll look it up...

Have the car checked and make sure all is fine. Then hire an e-tuner and get it tuned properly, because now you;re on your path towards damaging the engine.

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by mituc The knock retard max rpm is set at 6700 like I said, while the rev limiter is set at 7700. Good luck with that. Also, the cold engine rev limit and rev limit when not in gear (which most probably unkn 1 and 2 rev limits are) make no sense to be set that high.

Ok I totally miss understood before. I'll scrap the tune i edited. So is the original base tune I have worse then a ap stage 2 tune?

[/QUOTE] Have the car checked and make sure all is fine. Then hire an e-tuner and get it tuned properly, because now you;re on your path towards damaging the engine.[/QUOTE]

I guess what little I did to the tune was wrong. So I'm not going to mess with anything else. But I'm going to be reading around to figure whats wrong with the car and the map readings. I go to the shop as a last resort now and I'm not there yet. So I'll let you know what I figure out..

Thank you for letting me know, I was still way off. I appreciate you bro!!!

[Juschiln19]

Ok, So I made progress. So when I cleaned and rebuilt the hpfp. I followed the how guide for the auto hpfp internals install. just for quick reference and reminder not to forget anything. In that guide it says to use chlorine free brake cleaner to clean all parts. And I did that the very first time when I initially put the Autotech internals in the hpfp. And its worked great until now, when I hit the fuel cut...

I cleaned it again with same cleaner. But this time I got in a little better then the first time and this time I cleaned the housing the hpfp piston goes in and slides thru. Well the second time I rebuilt the hpfp. I cleaned that housing more And I sprayed the brake cleaner in it and I noticed it has 2 what look to be rubber seals in the opened that the piston slide thru.. So I made sure I put some oil in the housing before reassembly.

So on a hunch and just to be sure, I took the hpfp apart again. (My hunch was that if those were rubber seals in the hpfp housing the piston slides thru. They probably soaked up some of the brake cleaner after three cleanings) So I pulled it apart and put that housing upside down in a cap full of oil And let it soak for half hour.

Now it doesn't have that hesitation. And it seems to be idling fine. Goes into boost good. But now I have a new problem.. bum bum bumm..... damn it so before this rev limiter problem. When it was driving good. It would hit 18 to 19 psi of boost. Now after I drove for 30 mile on the original base map (break in period) I hit boost and at WOT it hit 23 to 24 psi of boost OMG WTF!!! This car hasn't seen over 19 psi of boost period since I've owned it. Soo this is a new problem. So I re-downloaded the base map to be sure it was unchanged. And flashed it. And drove 20 miles and I hit boost just see if it changed and in a 3rd gear pull it hit 22 to 23 psi again... idk what happened now.

I also did a test to check the map sensor. Where you log for map readings and barometric pressure and they should be the same.. and it checked out. And what's werid is the boost in the log is reading right on point with what I saw on the actual boost guage. And before it was only saying I was hitting 10 psi when the actual boost guage said normal readings 18psi of boost. Now that's fixed ....

Here is a few logs from tonight and the map test
flashed original tune 1st start.csv

3rd gear pull HIT 24PSI BOOST.csv

IDLE COOL DOWN.csv

map sensor test.csv

Got those problems out of the way but now this.. Don't go CRAZY... Don't Go CRAZY

[Fstrnyou]

Boost tune or load tune?
And it's pretty easy to compare two tunes in VT. See what's different between the two and figure it out.

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou Boost tune or load tune? And it's pretty easy to compare two tunes in VT. See what's different between the two and figure it out.

Its a load tune versatuner doesn't do boost tune. And I know how to hover over a box and it shows the value of another selected tune.. but not anymore then that. But what I'm saying is I re-downloaded the original base tune. And flashed it. And I'm still having over boost all the sudden. And I had this same tune before, when I changed rev limiter and hit it. but it was running good on same tune. No over boost, it was good idk what happened. I'm thinking I need to check hoses for ebcs. I was around that area putting in the hpfp.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by mituc P.S.2: you also give it a lot of VVT in the upper RPM range... are you sure you know what you're doing? The boost control part is total shit as well, WGDC adjustments based on temp is totalled, and a few other things. Ignition and load are decent even if with a BNR the engine can do a lot more. The fuelling part is almost ok, if you left those knock tables alone.

You're not reading. So I'm quoting myself.

Originally Posted by mituc hire an e-tuner and get it tuned properly, because now you;re on your path towards damaging the engine.

Quoting myself again, just to be sure.

[Fstrnyou]

I'm pretty sure VT can boost tune, but I've never messed with that.

What gets me is that you've had VT installed for nearly a year now I think and it sounds like you know very little on how to use it. This is coming from someone who still has a lot to learn.

[mituc]

VT can boost tune but a load tune gives a bit more control. With a boost tune you're targeting/controlling the boost or manifold absolute pressure, while with a load tune you control the amount of air going into the cylinders no matter the weather and the only thing that may vary a bit more and generate more or less cylinder pressure (not significantly though) being the advance timing.

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by mituc You're not reading. So I'm quoting myself. Quoting myself again, just to be sure.

Yo, If I could run out and get a sweet dyno tune right now. Fuk yeah I would. But unfortunately I'm a little tight with money for a month or so.

Its not i didnt read it. But I don't know what makes the ap stage 2 map suck soo bad. It could be the same. That's why I asked if my map was as bad as a ap stage 2 bad or worse? Everyone says that the ap maps suck really bad. But people drive on them no problem. They may not get the most hp or be perfect but they work without blowing anything up. I just need to get by for a few weeks. I appreciate you bro

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by mituc VT can boost tune but a load tune gives a bit more control. With a boost tune you're targeting/controlling the boost or manifold absolute pressure, while with a load tune you control the amount of air going into the cylinders no matter the weather and the only thing that may vary a bit more and generate more or less cylinder pressure (not significantly though) being the advance timing.

Really, I thought I read somewhere that it's a toggle in the ecu, and versatuner acknowledges it exsits but doesn't allow access to this toggle....

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou I'm pretty sure VT can boost tune, but I've never messed with that. What gets me is that you've had VT installed for nearly a year now I think and it sounds like you know very little on how to use it. This is coming from someone who still has a lot to learn.

To be honest, I was all in on trying to learn to self tune. And I got down to business. But once I went big turbo, I didn't want to blow anything up. Since I'm no where near taking over tuning yet. But I intended on getting alot further in the learning process, but life got in the way and I've been just trying to keep it on the road. And keep my other car on the road. Just been too busy to keep up on learning it all. Honestly I feel like I should know alot more by now too. I just got bust man. Damn it, I really need to pick back up.

[Fstrnyou]

I prefer load tuning anyways.

If you are "overboosting" but your loads are in line with your targets, then you need to adjust your loads to bring boost down. Which means you are essentially boost tuning with your load tables.

FWIW: I've never loaded an "OTS" tune. I modified the stock tune when I was stock. Only when I installed the turbo and downpipe, I found some information here to help create a "base tune" which I merged with the stock tune. Under 1.0 load and before 2500rpm, it's basically the stock tune.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 Now it doesn't have that hesitation. And it seems to be idling fine. Goes into boost good. But now I have a new problem.. bum bum bumm..... damn it so before this rev limiter problem. When it was driving good. It would hit 18 to 19 psi of boost. Now after I drove for 30 mile on the original base map (break in period) I hit boost and at WOT it hit 23 to 24 psi of boost OMG WTF!!! This car hasn't seen over 19 psi of boost period since I've owned it.

The boost values you've seen can be easily explained by the amount of air needed to meet the load targets you've set, also considering that the throttle reduction and fuel cut limits are pretty high.

But that's not the main problem here, I was running almost 26PSI on the stock block and it was fine for a while (only for a while because I didn't have meth and I damaged it when I started revving to 7k). The problem is that ringland damaging knock that you've seen in that log... I've sent you a map on the VT forum, try that one and see if the lower timing gets you anywhere.

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by mituc The boost values you've seen can be easily explained by the amount of air needed to meet the load targets you've set, also considering that the throttle reduction and fuel cut limits are pretty high. But that's not the main problem here, I was running almost 26PSI on the stock block and it was fine for a while (only for a while because I didn't have meth and I damaged it when I started revving to 7k). The problem is that ringland damaging knock that you've seen in that log... I've sent you a map on the VT forum, try that one and see if the lower timing gets you anywhere.

Thanks Sooo Much!!! I flashed the new tune but I'm still overboosting like the ebcs is not evan hooked up at all. I hit 20 psi in 2nd and 3rd. And I know that shouldn't be happening. Plus I hit 25 to 26psi in 4th it spooled quick... I replaced the hoses but didn't fix it. I checked the electrical connection, it's good. I'm wondering if while doing the fuel pump 3 times and having to work around the wire harness (so moving it here and there each time I took out and put it back) Made a short to the ebcs. Ether that or the grimmspeed EBCS just quit.

I'm looking up how to test the wire harness to it and how to test the ebcs itself. And I used rubber vacume hose and I'm reading I should be using silicone hose. But the auto part store only has rubber, so I have to look else where or order it.

I'm having issues with my tablet . It just went blue screen mid logging and said the was a error windows has gather information and restart the pc. Then says the error was a "watchdog Violation" and now when I try and log. I go to the dashboard and click turn on. All the stats update and and reading the current readings. But once you hit the record botton it freezes for a minute and then says it had a problem updating the values or something like that.

I Appreciate the Help Bro!!!

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 TI flashed the new tune but I'm still overboosting like the ebcs is not evan hooked up at all. I hit 20 psi in 2nd and 3rd. And I know that shouldn't be happening. Plus I hit 25 to 26psi in 4th it spooled quick... I replaced the hoses but didn't fix it. I checked the electrical connection, it's good. I'm wondering if while doing the fuel pump 3 times and having to work around the wire harness (so moving it here and there each time I took out and put it back) Made a short to the ebcs. Ether that or the grimmspeed EBCS just quit.

If the EBCS is not malfunctioning (I think you'd get the check-engine light on right away) and if the hoses are connected properly then most probably the wastegate stays shut all the time.
To fix that you need to make sure there isn't anything blocking the wastegate arm movement. If there isn't then you need to adjust the wastegate arm a bit if that is possible and allow the wastegate to open.
In the log you posted a while ago you hit 24PSI with 10% decreasing to 0% WGDC, that is a sign that the wastegate is actually pretty much closed all the time.

[Fstrnyou]

Originally Posted by mituc In the log you posted a while ago you hit 24PSI with 10% decreasing to 0% WGDC, that is a sign that the wastegate is actually pretty much closed all the time.

^^that.

0% WGDC means you should be running spring pressure. Or that's a wicked spring you got in there son.

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by mituc If the EBCS is not malfunctioning (I think you'd get the check-engine light on right away) and if the hoses are connected properly then most probably the wastegate stays shut all the time. To fix that you need to make sure there isn't anything blocking the wastegate arm movement. If there isn't then you need to adjust the wastegate arm a bit if that is possible and allow the wastegate to open. In the log you posted a while ago you hit 24PSI with 10% decreasing to 0% WGDC, that is a sign that the wastegate is actually pretty much closed all the time.

Thanks again bro. So I figured out that the heat shield for the back side of the turbo (toward the drove side of the turbo) there's a cut out where the wastegate arm goes thru.

Well I guess when I hit fuel cut or maybe leaning on the heat shield when doing hpfp and dealing with ebcs hoses a few times. Idk But the heat shield bent to where it had got flush with the treads of the wastegate arm. And was basicly holding it still. I used a screw driver and bent it to where it will clear.

I'm going to take it off and bent it back right this coming weekend. I didn't have time I just got it functional and tested it with a compressor and it has full movement now. I'll post pic of before and after later

[Juschiln19]

So here's a few pics of before and after I bent it out. It's driving now and the highest boost psi I'm seeing is 18 to 19. So no overboosting. Yay.. but with the new tune I noticed a really rough start. Never had that issue before. I drove for 50 miles and did a few logs but I'm still seeing 4 to 5°kr. And had kr just trying to get home. It didnt seem to be driving very good. Slugish at times and would chug a lug.. it didnt do any of that stuff before and it just felt overall not very good.


So when I got home I flashed the original base tune. So I could compare. The starting issues is there. It's evan died just sitting idle right after start up. Ans after another 50 miles I did a few logs. And I'm still getting 3 to 5°kr. It's in 3rd and 4th..

I know the new tune is supposed to be better by far but i didn't like the way it drove. Felt like something was wrong it would go into boost but just didn't feel right. Right now I'm still on the original base tune. And hit g 18 to 19 psi of boost. Feels good. But kr is high as fuk.... I'll post logs at lunch...

20170910_182522.jpg

20170910_185645.jpg

[Fstrnyou]

My car has a hard time idling right after a flash. My assumption is it has to relearn the idle control.

[Juschiln19]

logs after wastegate fixed.zip

I'm kinda still thinking I'm having a fuel issue. In the logs on both tunes fuel pressure is bouncing. Idle or in wot

[mituc]

I don't see the fuel pressure bouncing. Well, they bounce between 421 and 432PSI, but really that is not bouncing.

The wastegate is still not working properly. I did not see any more than 10% WGDC during the WOT pulls.
That KR is pretty high and goes on for pretty long. If you took these logs with the tune I've sent you which had less timing then the knock retard may show up there because mechanical noise (clutch, road, motor mounts, something lose in the engine bay, cracked ex mani, blown injector seals, bent rod). IIRC the KR values were about the same with the previous tune as well.

The rough idling is because of the pretty high fuel trims. Stalling came as a consequence of that too, in that log where you complained about the fuel pressure bouncing the short therm fuel trims start at +25 (meaning the ECU is adding fuel) to -21.9 for a pretty narrow MAF voltage and MAF g/s interval. So basically you have a fuel variance of almost 50% by just idling at about the same RPM (55rpm difference) and same MAF voltage (3C -/+ 0.4V or so).

[Juschiln19]

Idk.. I'll have to look around the engine bay I guess. And the tune you made for me just doesn't feel right. Overall the car feels off. When you give it gas and come off it chug a lugs everytime. Just don't feel right. When u hit the gas it supposed to make you smile and im getting a stright faced wtf... Maybe it's because u said you took timing out to deal with it overboosting .... and now that i dont have a problem with that. It's actually messing with it instead.. idk

So when I flashed the original base map back on. It feels great.. no chug a lug, just feels back to normal. Honestly if the versatuner wasn't showing kr... I wouldn't believe there was a issue. The car drives great!!! If I was really getting as much kr as I'm seeing and if it was a tuning issue(actual knock) wouldn't you feel the loss of power? Kinda like when u miss fire.. like not the jerk as much as the fall on your face lack of power.. idk never really had a kr issue before

I got a video of the wastegate arm movement. Seems like it's good. I just figured if thus is the base map. That the tuner didn't request high load yet so that's way its not going over 10%. It don't feel like there's a issuse goes into boost fast and hard... not sure...

And partly the reason i still thought fuel issue is ive got this code three times now... while I'm on the original base tune. I
And if you look at the 8/13/17 log (the only one not in a folder) and compare the fuel pressure stability to the 4th gear pull logs from ether map. And the 8/13/17 log was on the original base map right before I changed the Rev limiter. And hit the rev limiter that caused all of this... so it was my last log while everything was great. And there is 0 KR in that log..

I want to go with the map you gave me! But it don't feel right. It drives like somethings wrong. Maybe if the timing was put back. It would be good...

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[mituc]

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 And the tune you made for me just doesn't feel right.

Well, that is actually your tune with a few things that were fixed because they were more or less wrong. You can look at the differences by comparing those tunes in versatuner, basically they all refer to open loop operation and should not affect the way the car idles or drives in normal traffic.

You can also compare the logs before and after and you will see that there pretty much no differences in open loop simply because there is something off with your car (boost control is one of those things and with so much KR under WOT, if that is real knock, something definitely went wrong), and it's not really hitting any load targets while the overall air flow looks like for a stock car with a tune (OTS stage 1 maps, or hypertech).

I was trying to help you like I helped a lot of other people. I'm sorry this didn't work for you as you expected, but nothing in a tune can go around or fix hardware issues.

[Juschiln19]

Idk I'll try and look a few things over and go from there. I'm not expecting a hardware issue to be fixed by a tune. The purpose of flashing both tunes and pulling logs. Was to A) see if it helped the car. And b) if there was a hardware issue present then ideally it would show its self. I wasn't knocking your help but it feels different... and I ran the base map with no knock so unless something happened when I hit rev limiter then I guess it has to be something loose making noise or something...

[mituc]

At what RPM did you hit the rev limiter, and when did this happen?

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 Update - PRV Failure I drove it for a few days and I decided I was going to put the new tune on that I had made a few adjustments too. ( I lowered the temp the fans turn on at and I adjusted the Rev limiter to 6800 rpm[too low I know ]. And it was good. But then I hit traffic on the way to work and I hit the Rev limiter. (I set it too low. But I don't like that if u get districted that it will let it go to 8000) and when I hit the rev limiter it triggered the fuel cut. well this happened twice unfortunately... ouch... my bad... sorry baby... oh ya... but then after the second time it wouldn't go into boost. I figured, because of the sudden surge from fuel cut happening twice that one of the boost couplers came off. Well it would drive fine as long as you stayed out of boost. If you tried, it would go to 2 - 5 lbs of boost and wouldn't go anymore and would spit and sputter. Once I got to work and checked it out, there were no boost couplers undone.... I was like huh... So on the way home after work, I tried to do a log and that's when I noticed while doing a 4th gear partial pull.(until it got to where it wouldn't go anymore) The fuel pump was only going to 400 psi at 8 to 9 lbs of boost at full throttle. So I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pressure relief valve. I never got around to replacing it yet..

Between 8/17 to 8 /19 I believe. I set it for 6800 rpm and the fuel cut aswell not realizing it.. and I hit it twice in about 10 min

that's why I keep looking at the 8/13 log that was perfect. It was same setup and same tune. No knock????? A perfect log and if u look at the fuel pressure in that log it goes to target psi and stays solid not evan a little bounce. Compared to now, Logs show fuel pressure all jumping...

That's the main reason I keep thinking fuel issue... and what's werid is I keep getting lean on idle and lean off idle codes. But u can smell gas like it's running rich and it back fires more.. which I thought was due to running richer.... I've popped the hood looking and smelling for gas around fuel pump and there's no active fuel leak....

[Juschiln19]

After I hit the rev limiter is when all this started. And I haven't got her back to normal since. Second car took a shit so this car has to work with me and start acting right....