06 MS6 - Stock Block/Internals Build - Pushing The Limits

[Juschiln19]

Originally Posted by mituc The shaking under braking will go away only after you replace the brake disks as well. You need to replace them both because replacing only the wrapped one may lead to other things.

I found out when trying to get a alignment. That my right rear upper control arm bushing was shot, it had a little movement when shaking wheel in and out on bottom.

But the shaking turns out to be the front lower control arm that I just replaced in the last year. The ball joint failed from the broken lug and has about a quarter inch of movement in and out. They couldn't align it. So I parked it.

I already replaced the rear control arm, but it's been cold as shit so I haven't had a chance to drop subframe yet but I already replaced lug and I have new control arm.

But I had a question... I'm having a issue where the cars ebrake is sticking. I've only had this problem after replacing the right rear caliper because it had been eatting thru pads, but only on right side. But after I put new one in the ebrake doesn't seem to disengage sometimes. Like when u go to put ebrake down and When u pull it back up. It moved freely for more then half of travel (normally it has tension almost right away.) When I replaced the upper control arm on the right rear I noticed the whole caliper is slightly red like it got really hot. I've already had that caliper warranty replaced and put on and same thing. I'm lost.. I Appreciate Your Help Bro!!

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 When I replaced the upper control arm on the right rear I noticed the whole caliper is slightly red like it got really hot. I've already had that caliper warranty replaced and put on and same thing. I'm lost.. I Appreciate Your Help Bro!!

If the calliper moves freely then the next thing to check is the handbrake cable. Maybe it is sticky on that side, anywhere from where it splits into that Y, maybe it's kinked, or was hit, or simply needs some silicone spray.