Bag's 6 build diary

[rtabagaboy]

So let's just start at the beginning. I bought my 3 in 09 loved it except for the lack of Traction. Wanting to build an engine for power and torque without another daily driver has been an issue. So when I found a cheap ms6 with a bent valve I took the plunge and bought a non running car, this is the story of my fail. Let's hope for a win.

Looking at the car initially I thought it would be a great way to get everything I wanted. So here I am with no garage space Huge cc bills coming my way and trying to plan the whole thing and get some good advice. I've been here for several years so I am no noob but this is my first engine build and any advice is appreciated.

My goals are to build the 6 to be long term reliable with 500hp and 450tq. I know don't have to do a huge build to get there but I would rather over build than under. This may or may not be my new daily. Maybe sell the 3 when the 6 is done. Money is free but I'll spend a little extra on worthwhile parts. I plan to build it myself except with some local nator help, and a local shop to build the rotating assembly.

So without much more talk I am on vacation and will start the build list after the machine shop inspects the block and tells me what poisons to can run out of I need a new head. Disassembly to stay the first week of December.

Updates to come I welcome all questions and comments. Have a happy Thanksgiving, peace love and speed for all!

[Mazdazilla6]

What turbo?

What fuel?

What internals?

[sleeperstang1994]

looking forward to seeing how you do with 2! speeds around. Good Luck!

[rtabagaboy]

So after the holiday season i have finally got around to doing some work on the 6. I have jacked the car up, taken off the front bumped and started disassembling what I can in the engine bay before I take out the crash bar and radiator. With 120k miles on the car it looks like it has not been modified although there is quite a bit of oil spillage, some leftover broken plastic tabs and gunk/grease/oil in the undertray. Probably had a slight oil leak in some of the seals. I hope everything inside the block is okay and usable. While I will be replacing all seals and one time use components I hope the expensive items are still good.

Tomorrow the hood the crash bar and some of the things in the front of the engine. I may start to drain all of the fluids, hopefully without making too much of a mess.

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 What turbo? What fuel? What internals?

Not entirely sure on the specifics of the build quite yet. Once I get the engine disassembled and see if I will need to bore out the block or replace components I will see what my budget will allow. I would love to get to about 500 WHP with some AUX fueling. Just not quite sure what I will do to get there.

[Funkster777]

Take a look at other build threads here. You can look at my fail in NATOR IL.

[rtabagaboy]

Originally Posted by Funkster777 Take a look at other build threads here. You can look at my fail in NATOR IL.

So I read through your build thread and it looks like everything with the engine went well and then you had a lot of problems with transmission and differentials. What is the PTO? I am not familiar with this component? From looking at this I think I will look into getting all the differential and motor mounts that I need to save all the drivetrain components and take a look at the differential/Tcase fluids and replace them all.

Think I should do anything else? I am new to the AWD 6 so I am not completely knowledgeable in the different components.

[Mazdazilla6]

The PTO (Power Take Off) aka transfer case is connected to your transmission, but they do not share the same fluid. It's purpose is to provide a path for power to flow to the driveshaft. As long as the car moves, the driveshaft will always spin because the driveshaft is connected to the transfer case which is connected to the transmission which is connected to the wheels.

[rtabagaboy]

So i am working towards getting my engine ready to be taken out and I am at the point of almost removing the radiator and condenser. I want to remove them together. What is the best/easiest way to drain the refrigerant without getting that shit everywhere? Do i need to get one of those pressure kit things? the H/L lines just spray it everywhere.

[sleeperstang1994]

The government would love you to take it to an approved repair facility and have it evacuated... Or you can go to pep boys and buy a valve core tool. Take the core out. Leave the room and don't breath that stuff!😊

[phate]

IF you do pop the line open in your garage, put rags over it. That stuff is NASTY and gets everywhere.

[rtabagaboy]

Well I took care of it cleanly! And now the radiator is off. I think I am almost in need of an engine stand and lift. Lets see what I can scrounge together for the weekend and get some more small stuff. Thanks for the help!

[rtabagaboy]

THE PROBLEM:
First of all I would like to admit I have a problem. I have been slacking off on this build and I am trying to motivate myself to get this off and the ground and running by Christmas. At least at stock K04 levels. First to to solving the problem is admitting you have one.

THE ENGINE
Finally got the engine out and taken down to the block after some rough times with stuck head bolts. After looking at the valves it is pretty apparent what issues were present. 1 set of exhaust valves is definitely not sealing and bent but the rest of the block and all cylinders look pretty good!

So the time is near and I am trying to get all my items lined up and figure out what I need to buy. I am also trying to scope out machine shops in the phoenix are so I can get all the machine work done.

THE GOALS
My goals for now are to build a solid block that will be able to stand almost whatever I want to throw at it. I think the most power I would ever want would be around 600-700 RELIABLE hp. So I would like to build my block with those power goals in mind.

As for my timeline I cannot afford performance parts and engine parts all in 1 go. So, I want to get all the engine work done and running on essentially a stock K04 then upgrade to a BT with all the bolt ons and supporting mods. I then plan to get aux fuel and maybe a bigger turbo/more power adders.

I will be adding pictures of the block and head shortly.

[rtabagaboy]

Here is the piston in the cylinder with the bent exhaust valve.

Two of these valves are not like the others. It is a little difficult to see but the 2 exhaust valves on the left are not seated. I believe that is cylinder 2.


here are a few pictures from the engine disassembly. I don't think I found anything that was too unexpected. no metal shavings just bent valves and a little rust on the cylinders everything else looks okay. What do you all think?

[rtabagaboy]

So I have decided how I want to rebuild the engine. I am not going for a 800+ HP car, but I do want something reliable. Here is the plan:

Manley H+ Rods
Clevite H mains/rod bearings
SP63 pistons (Armor coat or not?) 10.6 CR
OEM Gasket Set
New VVT (Updated OEM or DCR?)
SouthBend Stage 3 Endurance Clutch
OEM Pilot bearing, throw out bearing & flywheel bolts
New Timing chain
New friction washers Crank & CamShaft
OEM headgasket
New OEM Exhaust & Intake Valves
L19 head studs
ARP Main studs

Can anyone want help me on the following?
VVT Updated OEM vs DCR
Armor coat pistons?


Camshaft? Stock? Corksport? SP63? I know SP recommends upgrading springs with a camshaft... but that adds another x hundreds of dollars..and then requires camshaft/crankshaft pinning and i dont want to ship my engine to them and don't think the local machine shops can pin these engines without correct knowledge. the corksport is only about 600$ and may work okay with stock springs and without pinning the camshaft. If CS can work with stock springs/only friction washers now is the time to do it

Am I missing anything that I need? Do i have anything extra that I don't need and can save money on? Goals are stock turbo and get engine running then BT up to ~ 500-600 HP.

I am planing on doing my own intake/exhaust porting work before this bad boy gets put all back together.

Any advice is appreciated! Thanks!

[Mazdazilla6]

Stock cams and valvetrain should be fine. 500-600 is doable just by having a stronger bottom end and head/main studs. I wouldn't worry about bigger cams, valvetrain upgrades or pinning them if you're not going for 650+. Though I would make sure you at least have the updated VVT actuator.

Other than that just make sure the machine work has been done properly. Make sure to get a spec sheet from whoever builds it.

[rtabagaboy]

I am trying to figure out which turbo to run and this impacts my turbo manifold choice. Stuck between this efr 7163 gtx3076 or precision 5858. Anyone got some pros or cons? Other suggestions? Also the gtx can use several different flanges... Is one better than another stock vs t3 vbrand t4? Trying to get around 20 psi by 3k for some road racing.

[rtabagaboy]

Soooo finally got everything ready for completion of at least the engine.

Rods are weight matched to a few grams.

Prestige are perfect weight and diameter.

Started micing the crank checks okay maybe a little small by
0.5 mil. Use thicker oil. Next step install bearings crank and plastiguage.

The cylinder bores are a pain in the ad to measure. Finally bought a dial bore guage and think I got accurate measurements. But cylinder is about 0.5-1.5 mil under spec. Meaning I have only 2 mil clearance to widest piston skirt on my custom 10.6:1 high compression plated sp63 pistons.

What to do here? Cylinders were noted supposedly with our nator torque plate... But that would not change only shrink cylinders.

Wiseco recommends 3.5mil ptw clearance and I got 2-3.2mil instead. What ya think!

Still got some measurements to do. See numbers so far.

Then final polish and clean then assembly. Do much work!

Are pistons directional? Piston pins? And the dot on the piston crown goes toward the timing chain at cylinder 1 or the clutch at cylinder 4



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Started working on the transfer case bearing caps disassembly and reassembly.

Cleaned outside of the case. Then remove the shaft and split the case to expose the gears in the bearing caps and oiling mechanism. There are several Pride locations on the case seemed to purposefully with the case without damaging any components.
The bearings within are relatively clean without any significant scuff marks.

Looks like loctite on previous bearing cap bolts. But oem guide says nothing about it. Should I add some blue? Meanwhile I cleaned the case inside with air and a very light brake clean. I will lube it all up at the end with transfer case fluid. Need new OEM seals.

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