andale927's Full-Race EFR 7163 Build (Built Engine)

[andale927]

Thank you for the advice... For now I've decided to enjoy the car. I'll still look into it more, but fuck it I wanna make some power lol.

Finished putting together my DIY port injection setup over the weekend. Running an Aeromotive Stealth 325 in tank, a Fuel Lab regulator, and Bosch 630cc injectors. Used the stock line as a return and ran a -6AN as feed. Running 43 PSI base pressure. Just started putting together my map. The plan is to slowly blend my fueling until ~ 75% is coming from the Aux setup or 80% Aux duty cycle, whichever comes first. Then start adding boost and fuel using the DI setup.

I worked on a little excel calculator for the PI injector duty cycle and for blending the R4 Map and MAF Cal. Attached in case anyone is interested.

I kind of have a stupid question regarding why people run R4 in 2 cyl/2 stroke mode. I get that the injector's get batch fired at a higher frequency. But why would you want that? Aren't you just reducing your max effective duty cycle since the injector opening time/dead time will occur more often?

[shaneski]

SS R4 instructions advise to use 2 stroke settings for 4 strokes and halve the number of cylinders selected, it is odd they could of easily re written the drop down to 4 cyl and have it use the same settings in the back ground.

With the 4-stroke setting selected, the AIC1 will fire the additional injectors on every other tach pulse. Use the 2-stroke setting to make it fire the injectors on every tach pulse. This will improve fuel distribution among cylinders. Set the number of cylinders to half the actual number to get the correct RPM reading when using the 2-stroke setting.

I had mine set to 4 cyl just to test rpm reading on the tach compared to the read out on the R4 software via laptop screen and wondered why it was way off until i re read the instructions and changed it to 2cy/2stroke to get it right.

[Jeff23spl]

Originally Posted by andale927 The plan is to slowly blend my fueling until ~ 75% is coming from the Aux setup or 80% Aux duty cycle, whichever comes first. Then start adding boost and fuel using the DI setup.

IM curious about the reason why you want to max out the PI above the DI? Is it to better clean the valves ?

Since the di is a closed loop system i had in mind to keep it as the main supply when i will go this route but maybe i miss something ?

[andale927]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl IM curious about the reason why you want to max out the PI above the DI? Is it to better clean the valves ? Since the di is a closed loop system i had in mind to keep it as the main supply when i will go this route but maybe i miss something ?

A few minor reasons haha, although idk if they are correct.

1.) Cleaning the valves
2.) When I say 75% of fueling i am referring to MAF voltage above 3.52 volts which is usually well into boost, so the car would always be in open loop anyway (barring gen 2 corrections)
3.) I am going to max out fueling from the aux system anyway. I feel like it will be easier to calibrate the MAF curve if I set and forget the split second controller then calibrate the MAF curve. Also the MAF Cal has much higher resolution than the split second controller so it would smooth out any inconsistencies in the aux fueling.
4.) Easier to monitor the DI duty cycle to see how much fuel I have left than calculating the R4 injector pulse widths.

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[Jeff23spl]

ok i wasn't imagining it this way but maybe it was my understanding...
At the end, it won,t be much different, i focused too much on the amount of fuel from the pi but it doesn't matter at the end. it remain a fixed amount subtracted from the di by the maf cal....you are not converting the speed into a PI controlled system....

You may find out by the use what is the best mix of both to clean valves while keeping the di cooling effect...

[andale927]

The oil burning issue ended up being too much oil pressure at the turbo. Used a .035" restrictor and the smoke on decel immediately went away. Honestly the last thing I thought it would be but i'm just so stoked that was the problem lmao.

Ran into another issue that I need to figure out before I can finish up the tune. I think my boost control solenoid randomly gave out because I randomly stopped building boost past spring pressure. The solenoid clicks when I send 12V to it but still pretty sure it's the problem. The turbo has zero shaft play and I don't appear to have any exhaust or boost leaks.

But anyways here is one of the V dynos for the 2 days that I was able to make some power lol:



Definitely need to clean up the AFRs and boost control, this was one of the first revisions after I setup my port injection kit and started increasing boost.

[andale927]

Only made 452whp / 434 lb-ft on a mustang dyno. About what I expected with the boost pressure dropping to ~27 psi at peak power, down to 25psi at 6500rpm, I think the turbo has only a little more in it if I add some spring pressure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NiqSQH12FjM



My friend on a built motor speed 3 also got dynoed today, he made ~480whp on 36psi boost. I think I can convince him to drop the ATP hotside on his GTX35 now lol, I think he would have made close to 600whp if he swaps in a BNR S6 hotside.

Here's a vid of his car:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-3VnMFPZuA

I have a PTE 5558 Gen 2 BB on the way, pretty interested to compare the two turbos.