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VersaTune VersaTuner tuning software by VersaTune. Available for Mazdaspeed3, Mazda 3 MPS, Mazdaspeed Axela, Mazdaspeed6, Mazda 6 MPS, Mazdaspeed Atenza. Includes ECU reflashing/remapping, online tune database, custom tune editing ability, virtual dashboard, data logging, diagnostics/DTC code management, Launch Control, No Lift Shift, and stutter-free Smooth Shifting.


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 Old 09-29-2016, 12:56 PM   #1
 
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Default what tune for CS turbo?

Anyone have a tune using Versatune for the Corksport drop-in turbo on a gen1 speed3?
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 Old 11-13-2016, 06:48 PM   #2
 
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Which tune did you flash?
What are your other mods? (I hope you have the fuel pump internals)

Lower the entire WGDC table to like 40% and see how much boost you make.

Did you change *anything* at all?
If your tune is stock, you need to make sure for MAF calibration is good.

The tables you need to modify for good power all the way to redline would be:
1. Absolute Limits
2. Boost Control
3. Fueling (optional but recommended because stock fuel is too rich)
4. Ignition (optional but recommended for more power)
5. Load Targeting
6. Sensor Calibration
7. Throttle Control

If you don't know how, just pay for an email tune to do it for you. They will make you log with versatuner, you send them that log, then they send you a tune that you will flash with versatuner.
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 Old 11-13-2016, 10:15 PM   #3
 
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Use whichever you like and go do a WOT pull and report back pls. For christ sake the CS sales page for the turbo has disclaimers as is sigh
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 Old 11-13-2016, 10:38 PM   #4
 
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If you don't know what you are doing then I seriously recommend a pro tune... Don't load some random map on there.
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 Old 11-14-2016, 08:46 AM   #5
 
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Default Pro Tune

Originally Posted by tegxsi View Post
If you don't know what you are doing then I seriously recommend a pro tune... Don't load some random map on there.
This... suck it up and pay for a Pro Tune, it's worth every penny and then some. Especially with CS Turbo and it's touchy boost creep if you're running catless... ask me how I know Go with Freektune and do it right the first time.
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 Old 12-11-2016, 08:07 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by ThOrZwAr View Post
This... suck it up and pay for a Pro Tune, it's worth every penny and then some. Especially with CS Turbo and it's touchy boost creep if you're running catless... ask me how I know Go with Freektune and do it right the first time.
When did you buy the turbo? I was thinking about buying this but I already suffered with the stock BC on the K04. I got tried like 15 reflashes and trying to get the boost not to spike at initial spool, got it down fine but when I got meth and upped the boost to 22psi, I could not remove the spike no matter what I tried. I just got a 3-port and that solved the problem.

Same with
Originally Posted by mituc View Post
I wonder if someone else has any logs with this turbo, I helped a guy in Germany a while ago and found that the boost control with this turbo was very challenging. I got it sorted eventually but I wonder if it was just a particular case due to some wastegate arm preload or other install issue or if they are all the same.
I want to know when you started tuning the car to know if you got the older batch of turbo's and if the problem should technically be solved in the design by now. I'm still on the K04 and plan on pushing it as much as possible with meth and hope it lasts a year till I get the S3 or I could get the CS now instead.
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 Old 12-16-2016, 09:23 AM   #7
 
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Default

Originally Posted by TheSixthSpeed View Post
I want to know when you started tuning the car to know if you got the older batch of turbo's and if the problem should technically be solved in the design by now. I'm still on the K04 and plan on pushing it as much as possible with meth and hope it lasts a year till I get the S3 or I could get the CS now instead.
That is something I don't know and I can't verify.

As a side note (wall of text following) if you're on stock block the S3 may be a bit more appropriate even if you use meth. The reason is that the factory pistons are not able to handle heat very well and with a GT30frame turbo (and the CS turbo is one of them) you will get maximum power upper in the power band, around 6200-6500rpm. So at 6700 which is the factory rev limit the turbo will still be able to push quite a lot of air efficiently.
Even if you resist the temptation to up the rev limit which is a no-go in my opinion on a stock internals engine, making the peak power upper in the rev range (probably 500-1000rpm later than an S3 depending on the tune and gas you're using) the pistons will take a lot of heat and you'll run into cracked ringlands issues. That will happen even if you use meth, because with the extra cooling from meth and the additional fuel you will definitely up the boost and timing which eventually will result in abut the same head endured by the pistons and cylinders.

So if you're on stock block get the S3 and use that extra 300-500rpm in the 3200-3700 range which with a GT30 frame turbo (CS, BNR S4, GT/GTX3071) is kind of lost, because that will usually make up for the 300-500rpm you loose up top with the S3 over the GT30 turbos. Also, on a stock block the GT30 turbos have more potential than the stock block can use safely, and in the 4000-6000 rev range the S3 and a GT30 turbo will perform similarly on a stock block (because of the limits of a stock block, not because of the turbo potential which is slightly higher even in that range with a GT30).
Makes sense?

P.S.: the factory pistons oil rings are absolutely and totally fucked and drowned in soot deposits after 30-40k miles of use, using some kind of oil flush or sea foam before you upgrade the turbo (or even start tuning) is a tremendously good idea which will delay the ringlands from cracking for quite a while. The clogged oil rings means less lubrication and cooling from the oil and remember, heat is the no #1 enemy of a factory piston.
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 Old 11-15-2016, 06:53 AM   #8
 
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I mean, OP was back in September. As it is now November I would imagine the OP got this sorted out or is now getting a nice look at his block through a window in it. I agree though, either way do not load some random tune onto your car, especially if you've upgraded the turbo. Logic dictates that you have the tune figured out (baseline at the very least) before you do anything.
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 Old 11-17-2016, 03:09 PM   #9
 
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I wonder if someone else has any logs with this turbo, I helped a guy in Germany a while ago and found that the boost control with this turbo was very challenging. I got it sorted eventually but I wonder if it was just a particular case due to some wastegate arm preload or other install issue or if they are all the same.
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Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit
JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts
Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI

2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual
SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP
GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake
TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars
self-Versatuned to 22PSI
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