"Standback Tuning For Dummies Guide" The Official Q&A...

[MattJackson86]

Sounds like you are doing everything right so far. Let us know how the MAF transfer changes go and if you see your LTFT get closer to 0%.

We are all still here watching this thread, even if some of us went AP.

[RichieRichness]

Yep Yep....I wouldn't be too worried about negative LTFT....at least it doesn't indicate a boost leak.

[cbusby]

Alright, so I got my trims pretty much in order and went on the highway with a friend to try and get my AFR in check. I didn't touch the boost table, but I was happy with how it worked out. Spiked about 18 and held about 15 to redline. I think that is alright for now.

AFR tuning went better than I expected. Started the day hitting mid 9's, end with a relatively flat curve at around 11 +/- 0.25. Didn't really want to go higher the first day of tuning. Posting the graphs of what I ended up with, I'd appreciate and feedback or suggestions.

One issue I had, was that the RPM increments on the MAF tuning table are frustrating. After doing a pull and looking at the log I found myself looking for increments that didn't exist. How are you supposed to get a straight enough curve if I don't have enough detail in the SB software?

Unfortunately these graphs are done in 3rd, can't get 4th gear pulls right now, but if it's absolutely necessary I'll find a way to get them haha.

First attachment is a log in 3rd gear, second to last of the day.
Second attachment is a log in 3rd gear, last of the day.

[the_caruch]

One issue I had, was that the RPM increments on the MAF tuning table are frustrating.

the SB should blend the values in between cells. The scale on your AFR makes it really hard to tell where it's at.

[Joellc2434]

So Im pretty much in the same situation as you cbusby. Just got a standback and dashhawk. Was tryin to dial in LTFT's. THought I got it about nailed. Everything was running at 0.0% except for idle was going to about -6% to -8%. Stayed this way for about 110 miles and the driving though town the other night it went to -3.9 at idle and +10.9 at 1.3-1.7v and +3.1% at 1.7-2.1v. Still at 0.0% above that but why would it all of a sudden change that much after 110 miles? Havent been able to make changes due to some computer issues but laptop is back up and running and want to make adjustments. But will they stick?

[the_caruch]

Originally Posted by Joellc2434 So Im pretty much in the same situation as you cbusby. Just got a standback and dashhawk. Was tryin to dial in LTFT's. THought I got it about nailed. Everything was running at 0.0% except for idle was going to about -6% to -8%. Stayed this way for about 110 miles and the driving though town the other night it went to -3.9 at idle and +10.9 at 1.3-1.7v and +3.1% at 1.7-2.1v. Still at 0.0% above that but why would it all of a sudden change that much after 110 miles? Havent been able to make changes due to some computer issues but laptop is back up and running and want to make adjustments. But will they stick?

the weather/humidity will affect it.

[Joellc2434]

Originally Posted by the_caruch the weather/humidity will affect it.

From 0 to 10.9 though? Really?

[MattJackson86]

It could also be it just took that long to learn correctly. Especially if your driving style changed from just after the reset when you saw it at 0% to now.

When I adjusted my MAF it took a couple hundred miles and many resets. So just adjust it to get that 10% down, drive it another 100 miles or so and then see where the LTFT lies. Adjust again and reset until you see them level out. You will never get 0% as like it was mentioned, weather/humidity changes it. Just get them as close as possible.

[RichieRichness]

Originally Posted by cbusby Alright, so I got my trims pretty much in order and went on the highway with a friend to try and get my AFR in check. I didn't touch the boost table, but I was happy with how it worked out. Spiked about 18 and held about 15 to redline. I think that is alright for now. AFR tuning went better than I expected. Started the day hitting mid 9's, end with a relatively flat curve at around 11 +/- 0.25. Didn't really want to go higher the first day of tuning. Posting the graphs of what I ended up with, I'd appreciate and feedback or suggestions. One issue I had, was that the RPM increments on the MAF tuning table are frustrating. After doing a pull and looking at the log I found myself looking for increments that didn't exist. How are you supposed to get a straight enough curve if I don't have enough detail in the SB software? Unfortunately these graphs are done in 3rd, can't get 4th gear pulls right now, but if it's absolutely necessary I'll find a way to get them haha.

keep dialing in your AFR. I see noticable dips in AFR at ~5900 rpm which tells me your getting KR. Your DH logs prob wont show KR because your knock sensor doesn't work properly above 5700 rpm. You might need to pull half a degree. Remember....DO NOT try getting rid of KR by adding/removing fuel.

[cbusby]

Originally Posted by RichieRichness keep dialing in your AFR. I see noticable dips in AFR at ~5900 rpm which tells me your getting KR. Your DH logs prob wont show KR because your knock sensor doesn't work properly above 5700 rpm. You might need to pull half a degree. Remember....DO NOT try getting rid of KR by adding/removing fuel.

Right, that makes sense. Now that I think about it, I was trying to adjust the MAF settings to get rid of those dips, never even though it might be KR—I keep forgetting the knock sensor goes deaf in that RPM range. I have a bit of timing pulled in earlier ranges, but I'll pull a bit up top in the places where the AFR dips and see if that smooths out my curve. Thanks for the tip.

Are there any sample SB tunes floating around? I'd like to see how other people's tables look, just as a reference.

Also, I didn't touch the Fuel Pressure table because I wasn't sure what to do, but I saw a few other people mention they add 7.5 across the board at the start. Good idea?

[RichieRichness]

The biggest indicator ok KR is when timing and ARF dip at the same time. You have to look at both. Best thing for you to do is use logs from DH and SB to make changes.

[the_caruch]

Originally Posted by cbusby Right, that makes sense. Now that I think about it, I was trying to adjust the MAF settings to get rid of those dips, never even though it might be KR—I keep forgetting the knock sensor goes deaf in that RPM range. I have a bit of timing pulled in earlier ranges, but I'll pull a bit up top in the places where the AFR dips and see if that smooths out my curve. Thanks for the tip. Are there any sample SB tunes floating around? I'd like to see how other people's tables look, just as a reference. Also, I didn't touch the Fuel Pressure table because I wasn't sure what to do, but I saw a few other people mention they add 7.5 across the board at the start. Good idea?

Don't put positive numbers in the Fuel PSI table. That will decrease fuel pressure. You want negative numbers.

WATCH YOUR FUEL PRESSURE, when you adjust this table. If you see the fuel pressure at WOT flat lining then let off asap. It should be fine, but just watch it.

I attached what my table looks like. See how your car reacts first though. Try -7.5 in the area i modified to start. -15 is getting to the limit. I have yet to test how high i can go before i peg the fuel pressure sensor.

[RichieRichness]

Matt,

Do you have a new version of your software coming out soon? Did you figure out how to include KR and AFR?

Originally Posted by the_caruch Don't put positive numbers in the Fuel PSI table. That will decrease fuel pressure. You want negative numbers. WATCH YOUR FUEL PRESSURE, when you adjust this table. If you see the fuel pressure at WOT flat lining then let off asap. It should be fine, but just watch it. I attached what my table looks like. See how your car reacts first though. Try -7.5 in the area i modified to start. -15 is getting to the limit. I have yet to test how high i can go before i peg the fuel pressure sensor.

Why do you have changes in your fuel table? Jake set me up with -7.5

[MattJackson86]

Yea it is close. I will try and get this done in the next couple days. Good thing you posted as it will force me to get it done!

Maybe you or someone can test it out before I release it to everyone. My car is down at the moment so I am unable to test. Ill let you know in couple days.

Proof I am working on it is attached

[the_caruch]

Originally Posted by RichieRichness Matt, Do you have a new version of your software coming out soon? Did you figure out how to include KR and AFR? Why do you have changes in your fuel table? Jake set me up with -7.5

i originally has -7.5 in there as well. But i wanted more, so this is the result.

Originally Posted by MattJackson86 Yea it is close. I will try and get this done in the next couple days. Good thing you posted as it will force me to get it done! Maybe you or someone can test it out before I release it to everyone. My car is down at the moment so I am unable to test. Ill let you know in couple days. Proof I am working on it is attached

great job Matt

[MattJackson86]

RichieRichness, do you have an ELM 327 adapter currently? If so and you want to test new version pm me your email address.

If not, anyone else? I only want a tester whose tune is stable. I don't want anyone tuning their car with this software until it has been proven that the OBD data is as accurate as the dashhawk. Last thing we want is for a bug that shows an inaccurate AFR.

[RichieRichness]

Sorry dude I dont have one.

[MattJackson86]

No problem.

Anyone else who can test please let me know.

[charlesfist]

I'm really excited about this and would have stepped up, only problem is my car has been down and i dont know how long it will take to get her back up (electrical gremlins). But as soon as i do get the car running and if there's no one else that has by then, I'll do it.

[MattJackson86]

Posted the beta to my website. It will only log 1 obd parameter at a time unless you register the app. I will give the registration info to whoever tests it out. No clue if this version works as it is untested.

[RichieRichness]

Originally Posted by MattJackson86 Posted the beta to my website. It will only log 1 obd parameter at a time unless you register the app. I will give the registration info to whoever tests it out. No clue if this version works as it is untested.

This is no thread jack sir


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[Mfinlay04]

Can someone with a standback and MS6 please tell me what their engine code is under system info pls! Trying to get my standback working and I bought it from a guy with a n/a 6 so the engine code that is in there now will not work. Thanks so much

[MattJackson86]

I don't know if just changing the engine code is enough. It should be "4" for the speeds though. What do you have? And what is not working?

[Mfinlay04]

The car runs fine with the bypass plugged in but as soon as I plug in the standback unit the car will not start. I hear the fuel pump prime and can smell the gas when turning it over so it seems that their is no spark?! I've checked the voltages on the connect and they are all within spec except for all the ECU sides, really strange

[MattJackson86]

Yea I doubt very much a na SB can work on a speed. The firmware on the device I am sure is different. I could be wrong, but uninstall it and call CP-E before you continue.

[Mfinlay04]

Originally Posted by MattJackson86 Yea I doubt very much a na SB can work on a speed. The firmware on the device I am sure is different. I could be wrong, but uninstall it and call CP-E before you continue.

The guy I bought it from had it install and removed by CP-E shop in MD and claims that they told him that it would work on a speed without any extra modifications... i emailed them this morning when I got to work but didn't get a chance to call before they closed. Damn really want this thing installed

[MattJackson86]

Then if you wish to continue, just double check the map is completely empty and no old tune still present. Did you use a PnP or solder this in?

[Mfinlay04]

soldered into the ecu harness. Wasn't too bad actually but I was hoping to reward all my hard work with some driving fun...

[MattJackson86]

Hmm. If the SB is ok to work on a speed then I would suspect that something is not soldered correctly. Have you double checked everything is soldered correctly and securely?

[Mfinlay04]

Yep triple checked everything multiple times :/

all the wires that are connected to the ECU side don't match the voltages given by cp-e. they are all 4.5v-4.8v except wire # 15 and the voltage is 0.2v. But I have rechecked this solder and it looks good.

[SSinstaller]

I would double check with cp-e about the NA SB...

The crank trigger on the DISI motor is different than the NA motors which would completely throw off the timing calculations in the SB.

[Mfinlay04]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller I would double check with cp-e about the NA SB... The crank trigger on the DISI motor is different than the NA motors which would completely throw off the timing calculations in the SB.

Yeah I wish they would have gotten back to me today before they left. I'll have to call monday morning as I doubt they will be open tomorrow. Thanks for your guys help. Re-soldering the wire that taps into the coilpack / ignition. Hopefully it works

[RichieRichness]

The StandBack I'm using is the same one from my 2007 NA 3.

I was told by Dmitry and Lou a couple years ago that the crank signals are different between varying years on the NA Mazda 3s. Therefore CP-e had to make slight changes to the SB for each year on the NA cars.


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[Mfinlay04]

Originally Posted by RichieRichness The StandBack I'm using is the same one from my 2007 NA 3. I was told by Dmitry and Lou a couple years ago that the crank signals are different between varying years on the NA Mazda 3s. Therefore CP-e had to make slight changes to the SB for each year on the NA cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So did they have to reprogram the standback unit between cars or as it simply changing the engine code back and forth?!

[RichieRichness]

Originally Posted by Mfinlay04 So did they have to reprogram the standback unit between cars or as it simply changing the engine code back and forth?!

They didn't have to change anything for me however, I'll ask what needs to be done. You probably need to post up your S/N and all the details of your SB before a correct answer can be given.

I need to know the year and model of the NA vehicle this came from. This was the response I got...

"Need year of na6. If it's analog then he needs a new SB"

[Joellc2434]

So Ive got my LTFTs finally in check and I did some pulls in 3rd gear. Want to post them but when I try it tells me that I am exceeding my quota. Strange since it tells me that I have 2.4 mb left and the pics are only about 300k. Also I can't delete my old attached pic from past posts. Anyway I would really like to post these up to get some help. Any advice or anyone willing to have these sent to their email so they can give me some direction.

[Mfinlay04]

Originally Posted by RichieRichness They didn't have to change anything for me however, I'll ask what needs to be done. You probably need to post up your S/N and all the details of your SB before a correct answer can be given. I need to know the year and model of the NA vehicle this came from. This was the response I got... "Need year of na6. If it's analog then he needs a new SB"

The guy that sold it to me had a 2007 6s. Hopefully that helps. I really want to get this figured out

[RichieRichness]

Originally Posted by Joellc2434 So Ive got my LTFTs finally in check and I did some pulls in 3rd gear. Want to post them but when I try it tells me that I am exceeding my quota. Strange since it tells me that I have 2.4 mb left and the pics are only about 300k. Also I can't delete my old attached pic from past posts. Anyway I would really like to post these up to get some help. Any advice or anyone willing to have these sent to their email so they can give me some direction.

donate

[Joellc2434]

Originally Posted by RichieRichness donate

Done

[Joellc2434]

So here are my pulls. FIrst thing I notice is the knock between 4000 and 5700 rpm. Should that be my first priority. Any advice and direction would be appreciated