"Standback Tuning For Dummies Guide" The Official Q&A...

[vbt101]

Could you please explain how we determine from the log that he has fuel cut? Is it the pressure drops at log times 4.0 and 7.25? Or, is it the inconsistent fuel pressure throughout the log?

Thanks!

[SSinstaller]

Originally Posted by vbt101 Could you please explain how we determine from the log that he has fuel cut? Is it the pressure drops at log times 4.0 and 7.25? Or, is it the inconsistent fuel pressure throughout the log? Thanks!

The FP should max out somewhere above 1600 psi and then maintain near that pressure to redline, anytime the rpms are rising and the FP hasn't already peaked, the FP should also be rising...

[SoyBean]

Originally Posted by spnkr21 I'd like to see an answer for the wideband question. Are you able to buy a different wideband sensor and hook it up to the SB and datalog with that?

+1
A $70 wideband vs $300 DH. Plus the logging features are already available on the SB (which wasn't cheap w/ the PnP).

[Driverman5777]

standback still can't log knock retard, which is pretty important... or clear DTC's which is also a pretty useful feature... they are getting there though

[tutuga]

Originally Posted by Driverman5777 so after reading everything I have a few questions... Explain Ki, Kp, Kd a little bit more… (toaster oven) perhaps in simpler terms… I think I get it, I guess I just want reclarification. Ki: overshoot over target - how much boost spikes Kp: stabilizing overshoot of target - actually achieving your target after the spike Kd: how fast you want to achieve your target - controlling lag (to a point) I never liked my controls class in college but this should be right - please correct me if I'm wrong What is LIFT(Long term fuel Trims)? Where are they in the standback? What do they do? you can get it from the DashHawk. Basically it tells you how much is the ECU compensating for fuel delivery. The closest this value is to zero the better but as long as you are under 10% you should be fine. How do I Fine tune VTA??? So that pop and the sort of stutter after shifting is eliminated reduce more fuel from the map, Jordan has a pre-set map for this. Wouldn't advise doing it since the recirculation helps you reduce lag, there are no problems if you decide to continue doing it though - PM me and I'll send you a copy

I'm only getting 0.7 knock which should be taken care off after my last adjustment. Will post better logs once weather improves and I don't spin so much

[Phantom]

I must be a dummie! Plug in PNP and SB and car doesn't start at all.

Follow my stupid adventures at:http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...ck-errors.html

[Driverman5777]

So the smell of my car has changed substantially after adding the standback, BOV, and step colder plugs... I did switch to synthetic oil... but does anyone have any ideas as to why this is? the smell is much much more bitter

[allmotor95pgt]

having trouble with the 2.5 software. i downloaded it from cp-e's websight. then when i try to set it up i get an application error code. can someone point me in the right direction. thanks

[wassup61]

Originally Posted by Driverman5777 So the smell of my car has changed substantially after adding the standback, BOV, and step colder plugs... I did switch to synthetic oil... but does anyone have any ideas as to why this is? the smell is much much more bitter

Did you up the boost? What are your modifications, are you pushing more timing? It could be that youre burning up your cats, waht are your other mods?

[allmotor95pgt]

Originally Posted by www.cp-e.com Again, thanks for pointing that bug out to us! If you guys notice any other peculiarities please don't hesitate to let us know. If it's a bug in the software we'll address it immediately. Here's Standback v2.52, which fixes the MAF XF table issue, and a couple other bugs with the ignition timing checks (i.e. so you don't exceed 3° between cells). And please remember to uninstall your old copy of the software before installing this new one!

i even tried this one and same issue

[Driverman5777]

Originally Posted by wassup61 Did you up the boost? What are your modifications, are you pushing more timing? It could be that youre burning up your cats, waht are your other mods?

I did up boost to 17.5, although my DD map is 13, retarded timing on hot map, stock on DD... Was running VTA for about a week, smelled rich, and was popping alot, so I switched to recirc... My mods are... Step colder plugs, HKS SSQV recirc, SB, CAI, CB exhaust, and synthetic fluids... I was also thinking it might be my cat, because it still smells awful, and since I can't datalog while Im waiting for my new dashHawk I'm in the dark!!!

How would I even know if my cat was bad?

[wassup61]

it could be that VTA clogged your cat. Theres no real way to tell unless you can see EGT whch would go up. How many miles?

[Driverman5777]

57k

[jwdp54]

im having some problems. i took my sb off the car and forgot to hook it back up and also forgot to put the bypass in and accidently tried to start the car. it didnt start so i put the bypass on and it still wont start. i disconnected the battery and tried to reset the ecu but still nothing.... everything worked before i started the car today.

[MZRDISI4]

Running rich is no joke, if you have black smoke and all of that your cat is blown.

[Driverman5777]

I am pretty confident I don't have black smoke... after I get my dashHawk back I'll be able to check my sensors, and im fairly confident they are all right where they should be... I cant check my EGT can I??? I didnt know we had a PID for that...

[MattJackson86]

Finally read this whole thread. Lots of great info. Quick question though. If you get a solid tune and then change boost (say 15 to 17) would you need to re-tune anything or will boost psi not effect anything?

[Driverman5777]

you def need to retune... 17 psi you should retard timing a bit to make sure you don't knock at the very least....

[MattJackson86]

OK thanks. That makes senses. See I was planning on tuning my primary map with a high psi and then the secondary with a lower psi and was not sure if I should just copy over the same tune.

[jwdp54]

ok heres a log in 4th running 19psi spraying meth. i still need a little help tuning and would like to get the afr's better and advance some timing up top where it likes to die off.

what do i put in the maf transfer so i don't have to retune it if the weather jumps up and down?

also this map is with my sb zeroed out and nothing changed except using the set boost. so i still need to make all those adjustments but don't know how.

[jwdp54]

anybody have advise on this? was hoping to go to the dyno friday but need help tuning it.

[phailerider]

from 4700-5000 id pull 1 unit of fuel, add 1 degree of timing
from 5000-5500 id pull 2 units of fuel, add 2 then 3 degrees of timing
from 5500-6000 id pull 3 units of fuel, and add up to 5 degrees of timing

this should be relatively safe. do that and than check for knock.
if no knock shows up, and your a/fs remain ok.... then slowly add more timing throughout the band. amplifying it after 4500 rpms. the meth should keep it safe.

this is all dependant on if you are going for big power on the dyno. you can add up to 1- or even more degrees of timing up top for bigger numbers. just make sure that knock isnt showing up. Loosh added a ton of timing when he made 337whp on meth on the stock turbo.

remember..... adding timing leans the car, pulling it fattens it up. you can use both routes for tuning. If you get real aggressive id log often for knock.

also... the maf transfer function will never permanently adjust this car for temp changes. i will see ltfts change with the temps. its ineveitable. just monitor it and chnage it everyso often during the winter to make sure youre running safe. 2-3 as a value should be a good starting point for a fully bolted car.

what are your ltfts right now?

[jwdp54]

what should i put for the boost settings so i don't get little or no flucuation it just hits my target?

ltft's not sure will have to check when i get off work in the morning. what should they be around?

thanks again! i will be playing around tomorrow with this and will post some more logs.

[phailerider]

Originally Posted by jwdp54 what should i put for the boost settings so i don't get little or no flucuation it just hits my target? ltft's not sure will have to check when i get off work in the morning. what should they be around? thanks again! i will be playing around tomorrow with this and will post some more logs.

are you stock turbo? if you are dont mess with the boost settings. just enter the value. they are preset for the stock turbo.

[spnkr21]

Sorry for the newb question but what is MAP for on the standback?

[phantom6294]

Question... it seems the primary way to make adjustments in the Standback software is by using the RPM vs TPS tables. Well, how does the fact that the ECU controls the throttle (and keeps the throttle far from "WOT") come into play when attempting to make changes? It just seems that since the throttle plate is rarely opened anywhere near wide open (generally only during initial spooling), that it would render a large portion of the tables useless since the TPS volts wouldn't venture into that poriton of table.

Am I missing something?

[MattJackson86]

It seems the posts on tuning all tune the WOT end of the TPS (~4v +). One we have tuned the WOT area to have a good AFR and little to no knock, should we tune the normal TPS area so we have a good tune during normal driving, or is that not really necessary?

[vbt101]

Originally Posted by MattJackson86 It seems the posts on tuning all tune the WOT end of the TPS (~4v +). One we have tuned the WOT area to have a good AFR and little to no knock, should we tune the normal TPS area so we have a good tune during normal driving, or is that not really necessary?

Don't think this is necessary. I think you are only in open loop at WOT.

Originally Posted by SSinstaller Yep, when in closed loop the ECM is monitoring the O2's looking for a target value, and will eventually tune out(Via the fuel trims) any fueling changes you make tha move the afr's away from it's target AFR , in open loop the ECM just runs off a preprogrammed map and doesn't monitor the AFR's, so it doesn't notice fueling changes you make... As far as I know any timing changes you make will not be tuned out, so you don't needx to woory about closed/open loop with your timing maps..

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by Driverman5777 So the smell of my car has changed substantially after adding the standback, BOV, and step colder plugs... I did switch to synthetic oil... but does anyone have any ideas as to why this is? the smell is much much more bitter

If your running "BOV" then your venting to atmosphere and it spits fuel into your cat wich makes it smell.. You can eliminate the backfire with the standback but you still may get a little fuel smell.

[socks]

I ordered an AEM 3.5bar map sensor to be used with my cpe standback. I also have my 3.25" ID Maf housing ready for CPE to get going.

I cant wait for my trip up to CP-E.

How long til the new mounts are ready? Are the rear mounts in stock?

[SoyBean]

Can this log from our car's OBDII (I mean is it compatible):
LM-2 Wideband O2 Digital Air/fuel Ratio Meter

[MattJackson86]

Originally Posted by MattJackson86 It seems the posts on tuning all tune the WOT end of the TPS (~4v +). One we have tuned the WOT area to have a good AFR and little to no knock, should we tune the normal TPS area so we have a good tune during normal driving, or is that not really necessary?

gsrtype1 can you comment on this? I just read (like 8 pages back of this thread) you start around 2.1v? Would all your adjustments stay the same from 2.1 up (at the same RPM) or do they change as you increase throttle position?

I did read about when in closed loop the tunes we make will be pointless as they will eventually be offset by the ECU doing its own changes. If thats the case, then wont we be getting knock and bad AFR's while in partial throttle? Seems if we want to tune in WOT, then it would also be beneficial to tune elsewhere.

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by Driverman5777 standback still can't log knock retard, which is pretty important... or clear DTC's which is also a pretty useful feature... they are getting there though

+1

[phantom6294]

Originally Posted by MattJackson86 gsrtype1 can you comment on this? I just read (like 8 pages back of this thread) you start around 2.1v? Would all your adjustments stay the same from 2.1 up (at the same RPM) or do they change as you increase throttle position? I did read about when in closed loop the tunes we make will be pointless as they will eventually be offset by the ECU doing its own changes. If thats the case, then wont we be getting knock and bad AFR's while in partial throttle? Seems if we want to tune in WOT, then it would also be beneficial to tune elsewhere.

This is why I posed the question earlier about how exactly the fact that the ECU controls the actually throttle position comes into play? We've all seen the ECU closes the throttle to roughly 1/2 closed after the initial spool of boost. If the Standback is looking at actual throttle position, then in theory wouldn't we see a relatively low TPS voltage? From that perspective, it would seem hard to really judge where in the RPM vs TPS tables one should start with changes to ensure those changes stay in Open Loop modes. I guess I am wondering if it is possible for the TPS voltage to effectively be at a voltage that is often both closed loop and open loop.

I guess I am just too much an engineer -- I just want to understand some of the mechanics behind making changes to the tables. Granted, I don't yet have a Standback but hope to have one soon. It would seem advantageous if there were a way to log TPS so as to better focus where to make changes on a RPM vs TPS table. Yet, I don't understand how this can be done (easily) when the throttle is constantly changing when our foot is to the floor.

This is assuming most people use the RPM vs TPS tables for tuning. I would think the RPM vs MAF table could be an alternative, but I have seen 12 PSI in closed loop which in theory would be a fairly high MAF reading.

[MattJackson86]

I am in the same boat as you. I too dont have the standback yet and am trying to fully understand the tuning process before I start. Most people seem to use the RPM vs TPS, but like you said we could use MAF. Either way I just want to know the best way to tune it. Maybe CP-E or someone could chime in and say why to tune using RPM vs TPS or MAF or whatever. I would like a nice, safe, even tune all the time and not just at WOT. But maybe there is no need for a tune at cruise (but that doesn't seem right to me).

[timv]

You can log the TPS voltage using the stand back. You have to have a seperate laptop hooked up in the car but you can do it.
It logs all the sensors it keeps track of so you can view logs of a lot of sensors.
The TPS does jump around but stays above 3.1 volts during WOT so the tables will still work.
You can use TPS, MAF, or MAP voltages.
I'm curious to see the difference in logs when I eventually get the full throttle flash....

[gsrtype1]

Whats the max people are advancing timing I only ben advance 2 dgrees but yesterday I tried 4degrees in the incremental fashion like your supposed to and the car ran nice! no knock retard!

[Superstretch18]

This may be an off the wall question, but is there a way to tune the standback to act like a kill switch? In otherwords, hide the toggle switch and set-up the second tune to pull all fuel, so that the car won't run until you switch back to your good tune? Thoughts?

[tutuga]

Originally Posted by Superstretch18 This may be an off the wall question, but is there a way to tune the standback to act like a kill switch? In otherwords, hide the toggle switch and set-up the second tune to pull all fuel, so that the car won't run until you switch back to your good tune? Thoughts?

I guess you can set your second map to pull 99% of your fuel if not 100, that would stall the car theoretically. Does someone know the limit of what you can change in the SB?

I already have a kill switch but wouldn't use the SB for that purpose...

[boosted3]

This a dumn q's .i put the standback cd in and three files pop up says usb drivers,speed3 tune and cpe tunning software.How do i install the drivers.My computer cant read the usb drivers for some reason i dl the program but wheni plug the usb in the computer says cant find usb drivers.anyone have this problem.