"Standback Tuning For Dummies Guide" The Official Q&A...

[Driverman5777]

plug the sb in... when the window saying new hardware found pops up... click browse for software, and go to the drivers folder on the disk...

[Superstretch18]

Originally Posted by Superstretch18 This may be an off the wall question, but is there a way to tune the standback to act like a kill switch? In otherwords, hide the toggle switch and set-up the second tune to pull all fuel, so that the car won't run until you switch back to your good tune? Thoughts?

Just FYI from Jordan regarding my question:

Originally Posted by CP-E As far as a theft deterrent map, that actually wouldn't be too hard to swing if you're still interested. I know of a couple harmless ways to keep the engine from starting if you left it in a particular map: Fuel Pressure - I'd want to try it on as vehicle here first before you do it, but you could set the entire fuel pressure table to "100," that would keep the pump from generating any appreciable pressure, which should keep the car from starting. MAF volts - We can scale the MAF any way we'd like, so fill one of the MAF tables with -80, and again the car definitely won't be able to get enough fuel to start. Timing - If you set timing far enough from the base map that'll keep the car from starting. Although I'd try one of the other methods over this one because if the "crook" keeps cranking the car it'll flood the cylinder with gas, which won't be fun for you. But let me know if you still want to accomplish something to that end and I'll whip up a map out here for you.

[Driverman5777]

thats a really really cool idea

[phantom6294]

Originally Posted by timv You can log the TPS voltage using the stand back. You have to have a seperate laptop hooked up in the car but you can do it. It logs all the sensors it keeps track of so you can view logs of a lot of sensors. The TPS does jump around but stays above 3.1 volts during WOT so the tables will still work.

That's exactly what I was looking for... many thanks (well, only one since that's all the website will allow me!)

I wonder why the DashHawk can't/doesn't display TPS volts.... oh well.

[Phantom]

Doesn't the DH show TPS but it doesn't look like volts. It runs from 0 to 50. So I was thinking that 50 is 5.0.

Anyone know if this is a correct assumption?

[phantom6294]

Originally Posted by Phantom Doesn't the DH show TPS but it doesn't look like volts. It runs from 0 to 50. So I was thinking that 50 is 5.0. Anyone know if this is a correct assumption?

Maybe I am looking at the wrong TPS... I normally get a percentage that I've seen get as high as around 80%. I had heard, you know those internet truths, that it was incorrectly reported as a percentage but was actually degrees (0 being closed and 90 being fully open).

[jwdp54]

what else could i do to get that line a little bit straighter?

[boostedminime]

any recomendations?

[bf360]

minime do you have a fuel pump? you have an odd pressure drop, and whats with the knock?

[boostedminime]

im runing the stock fp my v2 internasl ship the 11th adn i need help with the kr im getting 2.8 for a fe 100 rpms

[bf360]

Originally Posted by boostedminime im runing the stock fp my v2 internasl ship the 11th adn i need help with the kr im getting 2.8 for a fe 100 rpms

well what are your mods? might be time for meth

[boostedminime]

cacant i just pull some timing? i only havr intake amd dp

[bf360]

Originally Posted by boostedminime cacant i just pull some timing? i only havr intake amd dp

you have a standback? if you do you can try that, but i bet the fuel pump will help with that, try the fp first and then do another log

[boostedminime]

yea i have a sb and il jus run my secondary map untill my cdfp comes in thank you very much

[bf360]

Originally Posted by boostedminime yea i have a sb and il jus run my secondary map untill my cdfp comes in thank you very much

ight cool, ur from m247 right? we have a street racing section on her, saw you always in the kill thread on there lol

[boosted3]

Im new wiht the stand back i was trying to understand the pids.Tell me if im right if i spike over my desinated boosti will have to higher the kd and lower the kp.And if i wana keep it from dropping off from my desired boost i will have to adjust the ki.tell me if im correct befor ei start fucking wiht it. lol thanks guys

[boostedminime]

Originally Posted by bf360 ight cool, ur from m247 right? we have a street racing section on her, saw you always in the kill thread on there lol

im acyually on the m3f but im always on the what have you beat tread

[SoyBean]

^ What's up man? I've seen ya around the webs.

[boostedminime]

Originally Posted by SoyBean ^ What's up man? I've seen ya around the webs.

nothing much an just waiting on the cdfp to finish tuning my car

[ManiacMx3]

Man i read all this and i still have no idea where to start on tuning the car. i have never done nething like this before and i want to get this thing tuned bad. anyone wanna throw some help my way if i give ya the link to my DH logs?

[spnkr21]

If your still looking for help post up your dashhawk logs and I'll check back. I tuned my car and once you get the hang of the standback it's really easy.

[Smoker6]

Werd +1 to that. I had help the first time and that way I learned wtf to do, and after that it made sense. Once you get your head around everything its very straight forward.

[ManiacMx3]

Alright well the 3 logs that i did post are on this page here

Standback Tunning

If you click the link below the logs u can zoom in on the pics so that way u can actually tell what the numbers are that you are looking at. I have the one guy on here helping me out now so hopefully we should be alright. he seems very knowledgeable with the standback and is very nice! but all insight is much appreciated! thanks everyone for responding!

[SoyBean]

So did they make an official map to be used as a kill switch?

[boosted3]

Hey guys im having a problem of my turbo spooling up really fast and falling of quick.Can ya give me a idea on how to keep the turbo from spooling so fast.Can i use the kd ki and kp.And doe sanyone have the numbers there runnning on those.Im fully bolted

[bykeryder4life]

what are your pid settings? you need less kp, more kd,....

[boosted3]

Originally Posted by bykeryder4life what are your pid settings? you need less kp, more kd,....

kp=30.000

kd=40.000

ki-00.090

[vbt101]

2 questions:
First, the Standback allows you to tune relative to the MAP sensor, as well as fuel pressure. Everything that I've read uses the MAF sensor. What are the advantages to the other two methods?

Also, are all of my tuning adjustments cumulative? That is, if I made adjustments to all of the tables (MAF, MAP, FuelPSI), would all of those be signals be cooked simultaneously at a given moment?

[bykeryder4life]

Originally Posted by boosted3 kp=30.000 kd=40.000 ki-00.090

make them kp 30 kd 200 ki .1 and see how that affects it....

edit:pm me your email and I will send you a good explanation phily got from jordan

[bykeryder4life]

Originally Posted by vbt101 2 questions: First, the Standback allows you to tune relative to the MAP sensor, as well as fuel pressure. Everything that I've read uses the MAF sensor. What are the advantages to the other two methods? Also, are all of my tuning adjustments cumulative? That is, if I made adjustments to all of the tables (MAF, MAP, FuelPSI), would all of those be signals be cooked simultaneously at a given moment?

what are the other two methods you are talking about? Yes all the adjustments you make will be sent at the same time, so if you add timing and pull fuel in the same rpm range the car wil be much leaner. If all the signals werent sent at the same time the whole tuning would be worthless-you could only change one parameter at a time. Generally you will just be changing timing and fueling tables.

[vbt101]

Thought of another one:

Meth tuning. What's the best strategy? I have the ProFuel controller. My SB hasn't been tuned at all, and my goal is to run safely at 19psi, so I was thinking by approach was going to be...

1. Set boost to 17.5psi to start (just to be safe)
2. Spray where necessary to eliminate KR
3. Pull/add fuel to achieve 12.5 AFR
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until 12.5AFR and 0KR.
5. Up the boost to 19psi and repeat
6. +1 meth (arbitrarily, because I have no idea).
7. Advance until AFRs hit 12.5 again.
8. Quell knock with another +1 meth. If knock still exists, -1 meth, retard 2 degrees (or until KR=0), and consider that portion of the table tuned. I'm assuming that if adding a little more meth doesn't help the knock much, then I'm probably close the the safe timing advance limit. Is this a good assumption?
9. Repeat 6,7,8.

What do you guys think? Any safe way to shorten this so I don't have to do 700 pulls? Is it safe to skip straight to 19psi (I have a CPe FMIC)?

[vbt101]

The other two methods were by adjusting the MAP and/or FuelPSI tables, rather than the MAF table.

[bykeryder4life]

I just use the maf table not the map or fuelpsi one so I dont know how that would work out. As far as tuning you have a pretty good idea of whats up. yes you will have to do 700pulls to really get your car dialed in, it takes time to DIY so be patient. If I was you I would put boost straight to 19.5 psi so you dont have to tune the car twice. Send a pm to someone like speed3shon or subparpunk03-they have used meth with the standback/profuel and could tell you where to start out at with the spray, and from there you can easily do the tweaking to your afr's and pull timing where needed. I know 12.5 is ok to do on a DI car but if I was you I would tune and shoot for 11.7 to 11.9 so you have a safety net on your afrs if weather/shit changes

[vbt101]

That makes sense about setting your AFR to allow for weather/slight mods without having to retune. I think you can use the MAF xFer function to quickly shift the AFR line up or down (assuming you're using the MAF table to tune) to account for these changes though.

So, I assume MAF xFer won't affect the meth spray at all. If I adjust the MAF xFer to move the AFR line, will I have to retune the meth table?

[socks]

I didnt actually use the profuel controller. But i love the way it works. Because you know exactly where your spraying, so you should know exactly where to start adjusting your fueling.

It seems to me like you have a good procedure to go by. Baby steps is the safest way. But dont forget you can also alter your air fuel with timing. I wouldnt go too crazy with it, but once you get close by pulling fuel, start to play with timing. Like i said, its great with the profuel cuz you know where, when and exactly how much meth you are spraying based on the tables you are using to alter your fueling.

on mine it was very broad, because i was basically spraying meth anywhere over 10psi... that was alot of different circumstances on the tables in the standback.

Another good thing about the standback is that you can do what you want, but the ECU will still for the most part keep you safe.

Have fun, drive safe.

[socks]

Originally Posted by vbt101 So, I assume MAF xFer won't affect the meth spray at all. If I adjust the MAF xFer to move the AFR line, will I have to retune the meth table?

Maf transfer is for broad changes. If you change it, you wont necessarily have to alter your fuel adder table, but you will have to alter any fueling changes you made on the maf, or fuelpsi tables...

as stated before, stick with the maf tables for fueling changes.

[Cue]

Here's how I tuned.
All this starting with timing pulled (about -5 to -7 from 4000rpm to 6000rpm)

- The first thing you should do is find your turbo's effeciency range, during certain areas of the rpm band. Set your boost to that. 19psi isn't necessarily a good thing, cause over 4900rpm, the turbo can't do it... I think the max for MS3/6's is about 16 over 5000rpm. Having it set at 19 will just start blowing extemely hot useless air (while overheating your combustion chamber increasing temperatures and knock issues).
For me (CX7) this is what I have set in my table.....
4100-4600 - 18psi
4600-4800 - 17psi
4800-5000 - 16ish psi
5000-5300 - 14.5ish psi
5300+ - 14psi

- Second, set your afr tables. I'm running from about 14afr (3800rpm) to about 11.7 (5500rpm).

- then start advancing your timing until you knock. Afterwards, pull another .5 to be safe.

All this being said, you should be logging and tuning at consistent BAT temps (Dashhawk). I'd say between 100-130. Below 100, you can tune much more aggressively, but really majority of the time, your not under 100. And not over 130, cause it's really not a good idea to be racing your engine that hot.

[Cue]

...oh, and the MAP table works as a map clamp. Same as the boost clip, but more specific to certain areas. Really a useless table. Just set your boost clip to 6, 7, 8psi...

And in terms of Fuel Pressure table... I'm not 100% sure, so I don't use it. Seeing our fuel depends on the MAF sensor, and according to it's readings needs to supply x amount of fuel, I can't see why you would need to change the pressure??... So again, I leave it at 0.

[vbt101]

Originally Posted by Speed3shon Maf transfer is for broad changes. If you change it, you wont necessarily have to alter your fuel adder table, but you will have to alter any fueling changes you made on the maf, or fuelpsi tables... as stated before, stick with the maf tables for fueling changes.

Thanks for chiming in. That's interesting. So, if you are going to have to change the MAF table anyway, then what's the advantage to the MAF xFer?

[Cue]

Maf changes fueling at specific points, where as MafXF changes the entire band....