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 Old 03-02-2009, 05:54 PM   #161
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people with blown motors shouldn't be saying there car runs good....
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 Old 03-19-2009, 12:04 AM   #162
 
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Blew my motor a week ago.
I think its the #1 Rod/Cylinder.
Happened under light load. Daily Driving. Just Shifting from second to third gear and Kaboom. Dead. 5.6 Quarts frsh synthetic oil on the street. And coolant. Im fucking pissed.

Mods= Everything on cp-e website. Jordan Tuned.

I dont get it. Always a Rod. Mazda should be sued for such shit internals.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 12:16 AM   #163
 
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Also i contaceted several dealerships to see if i could get it pushed thru under warranty.

They said:
"6 months ago we would have pushed it thru no problem no matter what mods you had" (Cause they needed the work)

Then they said:

"Mazda NA is cracking down on the warranty work so we cant push anything through"

GEEEEE wonder why mazda... not telling us something?
Maybe your worrried cause all your fucking shit ass fucking internals are pooping thru your blocks.

Hate to even say this but this shit dont happen to subbies or evo's
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 Old 03-19-2009, 12:18 AM   #164
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Originally Posted by JerseySpeed View Post
Also i contaceted several dealerships to see if i could get it pushed thru under warranty.

They said:
"6 months ago we would have pushed it thru no problem no matter what mods you had" (Cause they needed the work)

Then they said:

"Mazda NA is cracking down on the warranty work so we cant push anything through"

GEEEEE wonder why mazda... not telling us something?
Maybe your worrried cause all your fucking shit ass fucking internals are pooping thru your blocks.

Hate to even say this but this shit dont happen to subbies or evo's
So whats your next step?
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 Old 03-19-2009, 12:27 AM   #165
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probably gonna remove the eye lids
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 Old 03-19-2009, 12:31 AM   #166
 
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Originally Posted by Darksun280 View Post
So whats your next step?
Well im searching for a decent block to slap in the car right now.

But i just got sponsored by street unit and will be buying a brand new full forged block. Should have it in a couple weeks just waiting on some money from my other sponsor so i can get the ball rolling.

I could use any help that anyone could provide.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 12:33 AM   #167
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Originally Posted by JerseySpeed View Post
Well im searching for a decent block to slap in the car right now.

But i just got sponsored by street unit and will be buying a brand new full forged block. Should have it in a couple weeks just waiting on some money from my other sponsor so i can get the ball rolling.

I could use any help that anyone could provide.
Seems to me like your already getting help. You'll be fine.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 12:43 AM   #168
 
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Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
probably gonna remove the eye lids
LoL already did smart ass. HAHA!!!.
I let this dick in my car club put them on. They looked like shit.
Coulda made my appointment for tinting the headlights and tailights if my car didnt blow.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 12:43 AM   #169
 
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 Old 03-19-2009, 06:21 AM   #170
 
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It seems there is a significant number of rod failures. All reported blown engines I know of (here in Germany) suffered the same death. Apparently the rod comes lose from the piston. Interestingly it also happens almost always in light load / cruise situations.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 08:03 AM   #171
 
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where you in boost at all when it blew? any type of load, up hill or in fifth or sixth?
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 Old 03-19-2009, 08:20 AM   #172
 
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its funny that people think mazda is responsible for their engines after they put all the modifications they can on it. you know what you are getting into when you start modding.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 09:11 AM   #173
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JerseySpeed, I know you said you think it was cylinder 1, but did you have the BS taken out? how many miles on this change? what filter were you using? any WI?
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 Old 03-19-2009, 09:17 AM   #174
 
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Originally Posted by bova80 View Post
its funny that people think mazda is responsible for their engines after they put all the modifications they can on it. you know what you are getting into when you start modding.
Ok well what about the stock ones that are blowing with the same problem?
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 Old 03-19-2009, 09:20 AM   #175
 
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Originally Posted by opt_ms3 View Post
JerseySpeed, I know you said you think it was cylinder 1, but did you have the BS taken out? how many miles on this change? what filter were you using? any WI?

Whats the BS? Fram oil filter. No WI.

Happened at about 9000 miles. 5lbs of booost. No load. Flat road. Daily driving about 3-4000rpms in 3rd gear.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 09:24 AM   #176
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BS=balance shaft assembly, and was it the stock cartridge type or spin-on filter?
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 Old 03-19-2009, 10:00 AM   #177
 
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Stock cartidge.

Should we remove the balance shaft assembly?
I need to know cause im going to be building a forged motor.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 10:03 AM   #178
 
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Originally Posted by JerseySpeed View Post
Blew my motor a week ago.
I think its the #1 Rod/Cylinder.
Happened under light load. Daily Driving. Just Shifting from second to third gear and Kaboom. Dead. 5.6 Quarts frsh synthetic oil on the street. And coolant. Im fucking pissed.

Mods= Everything on cp-e website. Jordan Tuned.
How did your logs look? Boost? AFR? BAT?
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 Old 03-19-2009, 10:13 AM   #179
 
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Originally Posted by badams118 View Post
How did your logs look? Boost? AFR? BAT?
Logs? Will my dashawk data log on its own without me setting it to?
If so i will check it.

But.. i always visually moitor it AFR was fine. No Knock. Boost was about 5-10lbs. BAT i dunno what that is.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 10:15 AM   #180
 
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More importantly, what were these params at WOT. What had Jordan set your max PSI to? What probably happened is that the rod was damaged at WOT, then failed at cruise.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 10:21 AM   #181
 
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Boost set to 18psi.
We leaned it out a bit at WOT.
Added 2 degrees of timing.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 10:22 AM   #182
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Originally Posted by JerseySpeed View Post
Stock cartidge.

Should we remove the balance shaft assembly?
I need to know cause im going to be building a forged motor.
yes, many people think the balance shaft must be removed if the power is being upped in this motor. its still speculation, but it appears that the BS assembly puts unwanted load on the crank in one spot (the crank might not be the right word, someone can correct me on this, but basically BS=does nothing but cancel out vibrations/there for comfort only, not necessary for the motor to operate). There are numerous threads on this topic. Removing the balance shaft also gives you a another whole quart of oil capacity.

Also, myself and others would recommend going to the spin-on filters with the conversion. People have said the normal spin-on filters do a better job at filtering the oil, and also give a little bit more capacity.

With my last change, I fit about 7quarts of oil in with the BS delete and spin-on filter.

Another thing I am considering is an oil bypass filter. I'm still doing some research on this, but it seems that it wouldn't hurt for extra filtration.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 10:23 AM   #183
 
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So I assume ~12 AFR. If your BAT was good & no KR, that is worrisome.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 12:52 PM   #184
 
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Originally Posted by JerseySpeed View Post
Whats the BS? Fram oil filter. No WI.

Happened at about 9000 miles. 5lbs of booost. No load. Flat road. Daily driving about 3-4000rpms in 3rd gear.
so you were part throttle boosting in the worst rpm area to do it

now i know why you blew
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 Old 03-19-2009, 01:16 PM   #185
 
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That's a good point. I try to stay 2-3k with part boost. 3k+ is for WOT.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 01:29 PM   #186
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I still don't buy the "don't boost in this range" theory. The engine is capable of running through all operating conditions while stock.

However, yours clearly wasn't stock, so it's a bit more difficult to asses the issue.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 01:57 PM   #187
 
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That's not what he is saying.

FWIW, my car has never liked cruising at part boost below 4th gear at 3k+ rpms stock or otherwise. YMMV

Try cruising at 4k in 3rd. My car has always stuttered, even before I put my first mod on.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 05:29 PM   #188
 
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The car boosts when it boosts wtf.
Are you telling me this guy shifts before 3k rpms all day long just not to build boost.
That is the most retarded shit ive ever heard.

Bottom line is this. This motor is finiky as fuck and has shit internals and holds way to much heat. End of story.

If you think im gonna drive around alday shifting gears at 2900 rpms ur nuts.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 05:31 PM   #189
 
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Originally Posted by JerseySpeed View Post
The car boosts when it boosts wtf.
Are you telling me this guy shifts before 3k rpms all day long just not to build boost.
That is the most retarded shit ive ever heard.

Bottom line is this. This motor is finiky as fuck and has shit internals and holds way to much heat. End of story.

If you think im gonna drive around alday shifting gears at 2900 rpms ur nuts.
actually i shift at 2500, and the problem is the ecu staying in closed loop and staying lean while boosting and kaboom
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 Old 03-19-2009, 05:43 PM   #190
 
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I shift by 3k when I'm cruising. I shift at anywhere between 3500 & red line when I'm WOT. I'm pretty sure that's how most people drive. I know that's what my car likes, anyway.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 05:46 PM   #191
 
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btw meth woulda solve your heat problem
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 Old 03-19-2009, 05:55 PM   #192
 
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Mine? Ya, that's why I got it.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 07:20 PM   #193
 
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still none blown with a bsd

and most cars going kaboom are sb cars, hmm
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 Old 03-19-2009, 07:23 PM   #194
 
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Hate to even say this but this shit dont happen to subbies or evo's
Sure it does. Do some digging, you'll find plenty of sad stories.

BTW, this motor is being used in soccer mom SUV's (the CX-7) and they aren't blowing up. Maybe there's some logic in the auto trans that controls boosted load conditions better, I don't know. I'm curious to see exactly changes they made for 2010.

But I do know you had a pretty maxed out motor with all that CP-E stuff. Can't blame Mazda for denying the warranty claim, the whole car industry is cutting back wherever they can because of drastic sales declines. The first thing to go is fixing some guy's built motor under warranty.

Anyway, sorry it happened to you, it sucks to have to spend loads of money to fixing a new car that should be under warranty. But I have to agree that this is where you tread whenever you're modding a car. And yes, I know even stock ones have blown too so it could happen to me. As their profits decline they're going to get much more aggressive about denying warranty claims. Other than an upcoming MS CAI, installed by a dealer to cover my ass, I'm leaving my engine bone stock. Even the CAI puts me at some risk though, in today's economic climate.

It's not even close to your situation, but I blew out an upper strut mount at 3200 miles. Warranty denied because of Koni shocks. It's just reality these days. The mount failure had nothing to do with the Koni's but it could have as far as a judge would be concerned, so it wasn't worth fighting over, I just paid for it myself.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 07:26 PM   #195
 
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why would you even take the car to a dealer when your modified or if your part has to do with what broke? thats just stupid in my opinion the dealer has every right to deny your repair under warranty if it was modified to run outside of factory spec.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 09:06 PM   #196
 
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Originally Posted by fbpem1 View Post
still none blown with a bsd

and most cars going kaboom are sb cars, hmm
Not sure if most are actually SBs (and in his sig he said he was tuned by Jordan also), but anytime you leave the tuning to the end use they are going to push it further than a tuner trying to cover his ass (and one might say more intelligent in these matters also ) would. Watch when ATR comes out you'll probably see plenty with the AP doing the same
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 Old 03-19-2009, 09:10 PM   #197
 
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tuning dosn't work for this car anways short of the flashes so i don't believe the sb or the ap really work in thier respects.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 09:21 PM   #198
 
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Originally Posted by fbpem1 View Post
still none blown with a bsd

and most cars going kaboom are sb cars, hmm
I wouldn't say it's more standback cars that are blowing, just that the cars with more mods tend to use the standback.. The standback is effective and safe when used properly..

Originally Posted by fbpem1 View Post
tuning dosn't work for this car anways short of the flashes so i don't believe the sb or the ap really work in thier respects.
The tuning works, it's plain to see that pulling fuel with the SB or AP works, and anyone with a dashawk can see that adding or subtracting timing works. It's just some other part of the ECM's logic is holding us back/not allowing those changes to be as effective as we would expect...
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 Old 03-19-2009, 10:59 PM   #199
 
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I didnt ever take it to te dealer.
I knew some people that said they had a hook up and when it came down to it they couldnt do anything cause Mazda ws cracking down on waranty work.

6 months ago he sadi it would have been no pronlem.

Im building a motor, taking my head off this weekend to make sure its ok.

Buying a short block and sendin it to the machine shop.

No more crying and whinning.
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 Old 03-19-2009, 11:19 PM   #200
 
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Originally Posted by SSinstaller View Post
I wouldn't say it's more standback cars that are blowing, just that the cars with more mods tend to use the standback.. The standback is effective and safe when used properly..



The tuning works, it's plain to see that pulling fuel with the SB or AP works, and anyone with a dashawk can see that adding or subtracting timing works. It's just some other part of the ECM's logic is holding us back/not allowing those changes to be as effective as we would expect...
thats the thing, there is no tuning solution that has shown to actually produce more power, instead of loose it, ive seen ap cars make more without the ap, and ron made more power with just the flash then with the sb
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