Mazdaspeed 3/6 UOA Results

[FreeFlyFreak]

Originally Posted by hnda etr Been 3 weeks since I sent in my last Sample to blackstone, and no word... Looks like USPS lost it or something... At least it wasn't the Amsoil sample...

Mine took a lot longer this time, they must be backed up.
Took over a month for mine.

[Frequentflyer]

Mine was about 3 weeks or so sent USPS Priority. Every time I go to the post office with the container Blackstone gives you the person behind the counter gives me a hard time when I tell him/her there's motor oil in it. Then I have to take it out of the container and show them that it's in another container, with absorbent material, in a plastic bag and they're like... oh.. ok, I guess that'll be fine.

[FreeFlyFreak]

Originally Posted by Frequentflyer Mine was about 3 weeks or so sent USPS Priority. Every time I go to the post office with the container Blackstone gives you the person behind the counter gives me a hard time when I tell him/her there's motor oil in it. Then I have to take it out of the container and show them that it's in another container, with absorbent material, in a plastic bag and they're like... oh.. ok, I guess that'll be fine.

Just use the machine at the post office to print out the shipping label and pay and then throw it in the mailbox at the P.O.
Or do like I do and put it in my mailbox at home with stamps on it (the website tells you how much) put the mailbox flag up.......... and like magic it disappears with no hassle and no questions.

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by FreeFlyFreak Mine took a lot longer this time, they must be backed up. Took over a month for mine.

Hmmm... Hopefully that's it then! Guess we'll see...

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by Frequentflyer Mine was about 3 weeks or so sent USPS Priority. Every time I go to the post office with the container Blackstone gives you the person behind the counter gives me a hard time when I tell him/her there's motor oil in it. Then I have to take it out of the container and show them that it's in another container, with absorbent material, in a plastic bag and they're like... oh.. ok, I guess that'll be fine.

My first sample I dropped off at the post office, the counter person asked me what it was and I told her used motor oil... She said ok, and that someone else had dropped off a sample for mailing the week before, so no hassles lol

I even had the blackstone info sheet printed out ready to hand over...

The last sample, different post office, no problem there either... Lucky I guess...

[hnda etr]

Here's my UOA finally...

This is for Castrol Syntec 5w40 @ ~4500 miles. Next one will be Amsoil 10w40 at around 5-5.5k miles (have couple thousand more miles to go)

[shpankey]

What the heck... how in the Sam-Arooni is your Copper so low? Stellar report! If it was me, I'd stick with what you're doing.

That first report, that says 3,500 mi on the engine can NOT be correct. lol, those low wear numbers are impossible on this car at 3,500. It's still breaking in!! I'm going to guess that is a mistake and they meant 3,500 miles on the oil, not the engine. lol

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by shpankey What the heck... how in the Sam-Arooni is your Copper so low? Stellar report. That first report, that says 3,500 mi on the engine can NOT be correct. lol, those low wear numbers are impossible on this car at 3,500. It's still breaking in!! I'm going to guess that is a mistake and they meant 3,500 miles on the oil, not the engine. lol

Yeah, it's supposed to be 3500 on the oil...

the first UOA is on Rotella, second on Castrol Syntec... What about the drops in Molybdenum and Boron from rotella to castrol? Does that mean the rotella was better in those areas? And all the other areas where the numbers are different... ?

[Frequentflyer]

That's a nice UOA on the Syntec. I've seen it in Pep Boys and have been tempted during their occasional "deals" where you can buy 5 quarts and a Pure One filter for about $26. Great deal IMO, but I have never tried it. Looks like another good off the shelf option, although I'll most likely stick with Rotella. Your TBN looks great for 4,500 miles. I've never had one that high on Rotella.

[shpankey]

Yeah, don't worry about the drop in Moly and Boron. These are the additives, Castrol just goes about it differently, notice how some of their add's are more than Rotella. Your car is a beautifully wearing car man. Either one of those oils are great.

Still, your low Copper amazes me. lol

[SJP0tato]

Hrm, I didn't realize there were two UOA threads with similar titles (Mazdaspeed 3/6 UOA Results vs Speed3/Speed6 UOA Links). Reposting here since this seems to have more activity:


Here's my first oil analysis:
I have approx 25k miles on my MS6, I paid the extra for the TBN analysis. 3300 miles on conventional 10/30 Valvoline oil (something like $11 for the 5-qt jug) in the hot Phoenix Az heat (90-110+ all day/night).

I'm going to try 5k miles for the next analysis & see how that comes out. It's nice knowing the expensive synthetics aren't really necessary for daily driving.

[Ned'rland'r]

SJ, what type of driving? Avg trip distance, MPG, driving style (WOT, etc), fuel brand?

[Mizzle]

So uh is there a reason I can't see attachments anymore?

[MATT DAMOND]

Oaky, I'm just waiting on my test kit now. I'll be testing Shell Rotella T 5W-40 to the max. It has seen 3000 miles, one track day at 270F for over an hour, and a run up and down the dragon at 250F for less than an hour.

It's out of the car now, I'm hoping to see how well it holds up to high temps for extended periods of time and fuel dilution.

[Monotonous ONE]

Originally Posted by Mizzle So uh is there a reason I can't see attachments anymore?

Haltech took it away from the browns


Gotta donate yo

[Mizzle]

Oh.
They're not that important. *shrugs* Thanks for the answer though.

[SJP0tato]

Originally Posted by Ned'rland'r SJ, what type of driving? Avg trip distance, MPG, driving style (WOT, etc), fuel brand?

Sorry, I completely missed this:
85% city driving, one trip of ~500 highway miles in 95+ degree ambient temp doing 75mph+ the whole way.
Average trip distance in-city ~15-20 miles (mostly to/from work)
I'm getting low 20's mpg (21-23 generally)
Decent amount of WOT, testing out my cobb maps. Go WOT at least 2-3x every drive. I make sure to let the car cool (no WOT within 2-3 minutes) before shutting down as conventional cokes turbo passages more easily than synthetic.
Usually Costco (not sure what brand fuel they use) 91 octane (best we get in Az).

[Ned'rland'r]

Originally Posted by SJP0tato Sorry, I completely missed this: 85% city driving, one trip of ~500 highway miles in 95+ degree ambient temp doing 75mph+ the whole way. Average trip distance in-city ~15-20 miles (mostly to/from work) I'm getting low 20's mpg (21-23 generally) Decent amount of WOT, testing out my cobb maps. Go WOT at least 2-3x every drive. I make sure to let the car cool (no WOT within 2-3 minutes) before shutting down as conventional cokes turbo passages more easily than synthetic. Usually Costco (not sure what brand fuel they use) 91 octane (best we get in Az).

Oil or tune are doing very well, thank you for the feed back.

[hnda etr]

Attached is latest UOA from Blackstone.

The only thing incorrect about the report is that they identify the oil as 5w/40 when it is actually Amsoil 10w/40

Wonder why the magnesium dropped to 62 this time... last test was in 200's (first Amsoil test)

Not sure why fuel % went up either....

Not sure if I want to go all the way out to 8000 miles either..

Thoughts from the knowledgeable?

[CloudX]

Anyone using penzoil ultra? Is it more like the euro penzoil?

[shpankey]

Just an update to the Gen 1 stock oil filter (cartridge) cross reference part numbers...

AC Delco - PF1703
Auto Extra - 61857203
Baldwin - P7313
Beck/Arnley - 041-0817
Bosch Distance Plus - D3314
Bosch Premium - 3314
Carquest - 84203
Champ - P960
Defense - DL9641
Ford OEM - FL-2017B
Ford - 1S7G-6744-AC
Ford - 3M4G-6714-AA
Ford - 3M4G-6744-AA
Ford - 3M4Z-6714-AA
Ford - 3M4Z-6744-AC
Ford - 3S7Z-6731-A
Fram ExtraGuard - CH9641
Fram ToughGuard - TG9641
Group 7 - V5505
Hastings - LF594
Havoline - T-59
Intercontinental Auto Parts - ALO-8135
K&N - HP-7013
Lube-Finer - P960
Mann & Hummel - HU711/2
Mann & Hummel - ML 1019
Mazda OEM - L321-14-302-9U
Mazda - L321-14-300
Mazda - L321-14-302
Mazda - LF01-14-302
Microgaurd - MGL9641
Mighty - M960
Mileguard - CH9641
Mobil - MO5505
Mobil 1 Extended Performance - M1C-153
Motorcraft - FL-2017B
Motorcraft - FL-2017A
NAPA - 7203
NAPA Gold - FIL 2703
NAPA ProSelect - SFI 27203
Pennzoil - PZ-159
Performax - PQ-159
Performax - PO-159
Power Flo - SL15505
Pro-Tec - 190
Pronto - PO5505
Purolator Classic - L15505
Purolator PureOne - PL15505
Security - CH-9641
Service Pro - M5505
Silverline - 27203
Supertech - ST9641
Wix - 57203

[Cataphract_40]

Originally Posted by CloudX Anyone using penzoil ultra? Is it more like the euro penzoil?

Yep. Just had this done at Lab One in Phoenix...great place, very nice staff and a great price, too! Just $15.00 for UOA, and they'lll provide a sterile container and envelope for mailing them samples.

[shelbygoat]

-2010 Mazdaspeed 3 stock
-changed out dealer/factory oil at 1773 miles
-Using Pennzoil Platinum 5w30
-genuine Mazda oil filter

Good to know changing out the oil @ 5000 miles is recommended from Mazda even though this is synthetic. Looking forward to seeing my next report after another 5000 miles of use. I then might go to 7500 mile changes, hopefully.

[J.Dy]

Here's my UOA with the factory fill. Just wanted to see how much the factory oil sheared.

[CloudX]

[html][/html]

Originally Posted by Cataphract_40 Yep. Just had this done at Lab One in Phoenix...great place, very nice staff and a great price, too! Just $15.00 for UOA, and they'lll provide a sterile container and envelope for mailing them samples.

I've been loving the penzoil ultra man.

[pebenito]

[obijack]

i bet the feels comforting

[midnightscarecrow]

Here is the result from my first run with Rotella T5 10W-30. I used this oil through out the winter in Maryland and took a sample to make sure there weren’t any bad effects from using a thicker start up oil. I will probably go a little longer before I change it out.

Mazdaspeed6
MI/HR on Oil = 1700
MI/HR on Unit = 27088
Oil Change Date = 12/22/2010
Sample Date = 04/06/2011
Make Up Oil Added = 0


ALUMINUM = 2
CHROMIUM = 0
IRON = 4
COPPER = 12
LEAD = 1
TIN = 0
MOLYBDENUM = 1
NICKEL = 0
MANGANESE = 0
SILVER = 0
TITANIUM = 0
POTASSIUM = 3
BORON = 14
SILICON = 5
SODIUM = 53
CALCIUM = 2135
MAGNESIUM = 8
PHOSPHORUS = 901
ZINC = 1032
BARIUM = 0


SUS Viscosity @ 210°F = 57.9 (59-65)
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C = 9.61 (9.9-11.9)
Flashpoint in °F = 385
Fuel % = <0.5
Antifreeze % = 0.0
Water % = 0.0
Insolubles % = 0.4

[Ferdball]

I had a 3.7 GC % vol Fuel Dilution bufore my OCC. Now I have 2.9%. I use Mobil1 5W30 and change every 3,000 miles. Any idea why its so high? Bad rings? Blow by?

[Dash08]

Originally Posted by Ferdball I had a 3.7 GC % vol Fuel Dilution bufore my OCC. Now I have 2.9%. I use Mobil1 5W30 and change every 3,000 miles. Any idea why its so high? Bad rings? Blow by?

Try switching to the Rotella T6 5w-40. Mobil1 is horrible with fuel dilution. Fuel dilution is probably the most critical aspect of the oil we use.

[div2]

I've run Mobil 1 5W-30 in my 2007 MS3 since new. I started with a 5,000 mile OCI and now run a 7,500 mile OCI. I have a UOA performed at every oil change and out of 15 UOAs all but two showed a fuel % of <0.5; the remaining two reported only a trace of fuel.

[IshiKage]

fuck that garbage Mobil 1. get on the good shit, Rotella T6

[Frequentflyer]

Originally Posted by IshiKage fuck that garbage Mobil 1. get on the good shit, Rotella T6

You will not find a better over the counter oil for this car than Rotella Syn, especially for $21 a gallon. The shit is liquid gold. With the amount of soot and carbon this motor produces in addition to the heat and DI, you need an oil that can handle it. My second choice would be PP, but I'm a big believer in running a 5W-40 and its hard to find.

Tapa-daba-do

[Nliiitend1]

Thoughts on this, anyone?

Related thread here: Oil Volume issues...

[Dash08]

Shit man, 2.3% fuel after only 700 miles. That's crazy.

Are you running a catch can or EGR block off?

[Nliiitend1]

Catch can? Yes. It's been on there since November, and I've taken ~700-800 ml of crap out of it over 4 different drainings since.

EGR Delete/Blockoff? No.

[CaptObvious75]

I should really look into this catch can thing... will that void warranty tho?

[Nliiitend1]

So here is what my UOA looked like on the same oil after 2000 or so more miles:

[Pete]

The lead level raised my eyebrow (at 33 PPM) - but concerned? Not really.
I have a few guesses as to where it's coming from.
I recently switched to Rotella T6 5-40.
I ran 2 sets through the car, then had the third analyzed - which is what I posted.

1. The last time I had the intercooler off to change the spark plugs I noticed some moisture (a little pool) just before the throttle body - tan/brown in color, probably some oil. Turbo/turbine (K04) oil seal(s) might be tired? Possibly where the lead is coming from also?

2. The filters I've been running (changed 3 times annually) are paper, but the element is "encapsulated" in steel mesh, inside and out. The steel inner mesh is usually rusty when I replace it. Possibly another source?

3. My driving has also recently changed - many more long trips being logged to the cabin (figure just shy of 3k for hours on end, followed by nothing but gravel roads). Apparently, such a change can be responsible for increased lead levels (extended mid/high RPM operation and increased temps leaches lead from the galled surfaces on the crank, galling from intermittent use and consecutive short engine run times).

4. The engine has seen a fair amount of SeaFoam (induced through the master cylinder brake booster hose, and once in the oil). It also sees non-oxygenated (ethanol free) 91 octane Shell fuel about 1/3 of all fillups (Shell 91/92 premium all others), occasional partial race fuel fills (~6 gallons per time, 107-110 octane), way too much on hand for the bikes to digest before it degrades, it's gotta get burned up somehow. Probably nothing responsible for the lead on this one though, maybe.

Reason I'm not very concerned is the car runs fantastic, probably better than it ever has. Plus, iron/steel, aluminum and other pertinent metal levels being pretty much nonexistent.
Time will tell, though, what the eventual source of the lead is.

I'm due for a change in about 1k miles, and I will have the oil analyzed, and will post the results if you don't mind.

Nickel showed up too, not sure where that came from?

Flashpoint is a little low - probably due to the 1.5% fuel dilution.

Just about every other level looks optimal, the Zinc level was nice to see.


I'd be grateful for any thoughts you guys have


- Pete -

[Cataphract_40]