Fuel Pump internals Install!

[wolly6973]

Just pull down on the line with one hand, while pulling the pump out with the other.

[jimmyx27]

Thanks guys for the help. Got around to installing this today and everything went smoothly.

[bcmurphy87]

great write up i yes you need to lube the new assembly. Everything that moves should get a fresh coat of lube. you can never have enough lube.

[Intruder]

Originally Posted by DingoDave Figured I'd share my fail with you guys so others would learn from my mistakes. Be careful when reinstalling the fuel pump back into the cam housing. You shouldn't have to force the pump back in. Just oil the O-ring thoroughly and gently wiggle the pump until it seats in its place. Then tighten the bolts down and reconnect everything. Force the pump in like I did and this could happen... Pinched O-ring. Which led to oil leaking all over the engine and transmission in a matter of a weekend of driving. Fuel pump itself was fine and maintained steady fuel pressures of 1800+ at WOT. Other than the leaking oil, there were no other indications that anything was wrong. By the way. A new O-ring from the dealership will cost you $13.

I sent you a PM regarding this, but I figured I'd share with everyone.

I was using non-chlorinated break parts cleaner to clean the parts before reassembly and it seems to have degraded the rubber the o-ring's made of. I noticed that the o-ring had stretched and it would definitely get pinched if I try to reinstall the fuel pump. So I wonder if the same happened to you.

Anyway, the part number for this o-ring is L3K9-13-ZE5. I'll be visiting the dealer for a replacement tomorrow.

[Bucker]

I've used brake parts cleaner on the 3 or 4 of these that I have installed with no issue. Why were you spraying the oring with it anyway? All I have sprayed are teh new internals to clean then, then soaked them in oil to ensure they had nothing left on them and were lubed for the first few seconds of operation.

[Intruder]

Why? It was late and I had been working on the car all weekend (PMM, DMM, OCC, down pipe, fuel pump). My brain wasn't firing on all cylinders. I was trying to clean the FP assembly but I didn't figure the o-ring would get damaged by the solvents. Would've been fine if it was Viton.

[Intruder]

I was doing a bit of research on o-rings as I didn't want to pay the stealership $20 and wait till Thursday to get one. I was hoping to source a standard size o-ring and since I didn't know the size of the original I was going to estimate it based on the gland size of the fuel pump. The Parker O-ring handbook is good for that: http://www.parker.com/literature/ORD...g_Handbook.pdf

While reading up I found this on page 56 of that PDF:

"Gasoline and diesel fuels are used in normal commercial
vehicles. Fuels are more aggressive than mineral oils and
cause higher swelling of the elastomer which increases with
temperature. Swelling of an elastomer in fuel is, however,
generally reversible when the absorbed fuel vaporizes completely."

True to that I found that the o-ring had magically shrunken back to its original size and I just reused it.

The FP went in without a hitch. I'll just keep an eye on it for oil leaks.

[jonspeed3]

doing this install today, hella nervous!

[m4tic]

oh now you want to be a bitch

[jonspeed3]

huh? lol

[m4tic]

Originally Posted by jonspeed3 huh? lol

haha im just saying that is not your usual posting style.... not at all... just stay bad ass and you'll be fine

[DingoDave]

Internals install aren't that bad. Just read through this thread and you should be fine. Just don't fuck it up lol

[jonspeed3]

Originally Posted by bmorrisj haha im just saying that is not your usual posting style.... not at all... just stay bad ass and you'll be fine

Lol true, but its usually not at me or my motors expense.

/Serious mode

Fuck you fgtz, I'm gonna put this shit in then go fuck my wife.

In the car.

[bms3mtb]

Did this today.
Install guide was helpful-ish...

I removed the battery and SRI, and just pushed my TIP out of the way; I'm in a much better mood when I can get easy access to the parts I'm working on.

Regarding removing the FP, this DIY doesn't really talk about the clips- and for those that haven't donated (DONATE) and don't have the manual - the yellow clip, you can simply insert a flat-head screwdriver in the slot on the main part of it (it's go the 2 prongs on one side then the other side has a notch for a screwdriver), and pry it 2/3 of the way off, and you're good.
The blue fastener has a "lip" on one part of it (the fastener is split), simply sort of hold that lip and twist it out of the way, it "clicks" when it's free.

As far as the bottom line, try to just slide (forcefully-ish) the FP off and over it, if you bend it out of the way (I did, by about 5mm), it is a BITCH to bend back. FYI.

Thanks for the pictures though, helped my confidence some.

Internals clacked a bit for the first 30seconds or so but now sound normal... It's odd seeing FP > 1600 at part throttle on AP... Here's to trying to drive gently for a few days.

[rghispanic88]

glad my guide helped u out "some".

i really didnt think anyone could have problems with clips, for as many as there are, it would have been one LONG how to.

[NCZ13]

Need to get a vise this weekend.

And fuck only having external torx bits lol

[jonspeed3]

YEA just did it as well with the help of a local!

FUCK YEA ITS IN!

feels gud meng.

[Jake5713]

So with the 1600+ psi requirement it's only at WOT Correct? cause I idle at 400 ish and cruising is like 12-1300 ish if I remember right

[NCZ13]

Correct

[Jake5713]

Thanks man
I'm good lol

[Pedal-Force]

If anyone doesn't have a vise, or can't get the pump to fit and stay in the vice, I found a second method (thanks to my dad, the genius mechanic).

Pry bar and two screw drivers that will fit through the mounting holes. Put the pry bar between the screw drivers, and it'll allow you to keep the pump from spinning. Still helps to have a friend to stabilize things.




Also, I bought my internals from PTP/HPFPupgrades, and it came with this "thing", that I don't know what it is.

[kritz]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force If anyone doesn't have a vise, or can't get the pump to fit and stay in the vice, I found a second method (thanks to my dad, the genius mechanic). Pry bar and two screw drivers that will fit through the mounting holes. Put the pry bar between the screw drivers, and it'll allow you to keep the pump from spinning. Still helps to have a friend to stabilize things. Also, I bought my internals from PTP/HPFPupgrades, and it came with this "thing", that I don't know what it is.

I think it might be to hold up the fuel hard line nut from falling down to the nether regions or a tool to impale into your forehead if your internals seize up?

[rghispanic88]

^^LOL

no idea what the hell that is.

thats some good thinkin with the pry bar and screw drivers

[Pedal-Force]

Originally Posted by kritz I think it might be to hold up the fuel hard line nut from falling down to the nether regions or a tool to impale into your forehead if your internals seize up?

Nah, not for holding the nut up. The instructions tell you to use a zip tie for that.

Possibly for impaling your forehead, I'll let you know if mine seize up.

[m4tic]

that "thing" is to help remove the spring retainer/button

Originally Posted by Jake5713 So with the 1600+ psi requirement it's only at WOT Correct? cause I idle at 400 ish and cruising is like 12-1300 ish if I remember right

also open ATR and look at the HPFP control tables, thats what your pressure should be doing.

[Pedal-Force]

I see. He could've told me that in the instructions, never mentioned it.

I already got that all back together. Just need to go buy a deeper 18mm.

[foodtime]

i went on a rampage with my fuel line while trying to remove the metal nut underneath the fuel pump. I thought i was releasing the nut but was twisting the fuel line. I twisted the fuel line back to its original state. I wonder if i have to change out that metal fuel line.

[m4tic]

twizzler'd it? only you and phillyB

[foodtime]

that's what i get for working out too much....

[skeeter149]

Originally Posted by bmorrisj twizzler'd it? only you and phillyB

exactly even my islander tightened nut didnt twist the line

[rghispanic88]

Originally Posted by foodtime i went on a rampage with my fuel line while trying to remove the metal nut underneath the fuel pump. I thought i was releasing the nut but was twisting the fuel line. I twisted the fuel line back to its original state. I wonder if i have to change out that metal fuel line.

i know there were a couple of them bein sold for around 50 bucks on the forum.

better to be safe than sorry. they are worth like 100 bucks new

[Intruder]

The part number for the high pressure fuel line is L3K9-13-290A. List price is $94.60 ($56.75 from Mazda Motorsports). Good luck!

[Pedal-Force]

Well, my car is fine. Got everything installed correctly. Turns out my torque wrench is broken and I was actually over 50 ft lbs already, just didn't know it. I took it to Pep Boys and they threw it in a vice with their torque wrench and a deeper 18mm socket and took care of it for me.

Put it back in the car and did the first set of break in instructions. Idle, then 1500, idle, 2500, idle, 3500, with one minute intervals, then again with 2 minute, then again with 3 minute.

It didn't like the last 3 minute one at 3500, I think it shut down the fuel for a second because of knock, my intake temps were at 190 with engine temps of 205, so BAT was probably 250 or something.

The fuel pump makes a lot of noise though, just the camshaft lobe clicking against it I think. Is that normal? I don't really remember what it sounded like before. You can't hear it in the car or anything, but under the hood you can definitely tell it's coming from the pump.

[jonspeed3]

yea after my install its alot more audible, but im always paranoid i fucked something up with my installs.

[Pedal-Force]

How long has yours been clicking?

[Airman3454]

Lil off topic but I still had lube in the stock potion of the pump that stays when you insert internals so I did not use the included lube. I will be working on my car this weekend and was won dering if I should take the pump out again and lube the entire internals...

[Intruder]

You should have cleaned and lubed the internals prior to assembly.

The fuel pump assembly (and more precisely the o-ring) that goes in the head should also be lubed to make it easier to slide in place. Did you already run the engine? If so, then obviously the pump's taken care of its lubrication needs.

[Airman3454]

Yes, The car has been running for around 2 months now no issues. Am I in the clear or should I just pull the pump for shits and giggles and check it out...

[Intruder]

The design of it is such that it gets the necessary lubrication when the engine is running. The lube during assembly is to prevent damage/scoring on start-up.

You've been running it for 2 months, so there's no point in re-lubing it.

[rangers4094]

why do you have to remove the battery boX?