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 Old 09-21-2011, 04:10 PM   #161
 
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Originally Posted by rangers4094 View Post
why do you have to remove the battery boX?
For ease of access.

Getting the nut off the high pressure fuel line can be a pain the ass with all the parts in place. I took the battery and intake out completely and it was a peace of cake to do the fuel pump.
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 Old 09-21-2011, 04:21 PM   #162
 
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You don't. All I removed was the TMIC.

Now that I have done it, I wouldn't remove anything from the car.
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 Old 09-21-2011, 11:30 PM   #163
 
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I'd say remove it if you no idea what the hell you're supposed to be looking for. If you have somebody with you who knows what they're doing, then don't remove the battery tray and intake.
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 Old 09-22-2011, 06:27 AM   #164
 
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Originally Posted by rangers4094 View Post
why do you have to remove the battery boX?
You don't. All you really need to take out is the TMIC. The battery box would just make wrenching the pump out easier.
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 Old 09-25-2011, 08:39 AM   #165
 
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Read this how-to and the Autotech how-to and don't see steps 5, 6, or 7 included in your write up. Why the difference? I'm no expert.
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 Old 09-25-2011, 01:24 PM   #166
 
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Default KMD Install Failed

I got the fuel pump off the car and took out the internals, but I could not get the OE piston, the part that slides into the 18mm nut, out. That sucker was seized in there and no amount of vice grips or pliers was getting it to come out. I bought this car used so I am thinking that this is not the factory fuel pump. There were lots of other aftermarket stuff on the car that I've been finding over time. The pump holds pressure just fine, but did anyone else have issues taking out the OE piston to replace it with the new one?

I have an '06 MS 6.
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 Old 09-25-2011, 01:47 PM   #167
 
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Nice write up
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 Old 09-25-2011, 01:56 PM   #168
 
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Originally Posted by rangers4094 View Post
why do you have to remove the battery boX?
You don't!!!!!!!!
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 Old 09-25-2011, 02:26 PM   #169
 
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Originally Posted by yetihairball View Post
I got the fuel pump off the car and took out the internals, but I could not get the OE piston, the part that slides into the 18mm nut, out. That sucker was seized in there and no amount of vice grips or pliers was getting it to come out. I bought this car used so I am thinking that this is not the factory fuel pump. There were lots of other aftermarket stuff on the car that I've been finding over time. The pump holds pressure just fine, but did anyone else have issues taking out the OE piston to replace it with the new one?

I have an '06 MS 6.
Did you damage the piston trying to take it out? The oem one slides out, but the upgraded ones require removing the 18mm nut first because it's bigger. As long as you didn't damage it, put it back in and just monitor for fuel pressure as you add power. If you did damage it at all, then remove the nut and see what's up.

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 Old 09-25-2011, 02:29 PM   #170
 
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it doesnt matter what you do to that 18mm cap, as long as the small rubber oring is in there
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This will be me next saturday... AT Internal.

Also CS SRI/TIP/Airbox/ MM Insert / JBR SSP.... at least I only have to take all the stuff off once.... Buy everything at once instead of one by one.

Prob bring my Laptop with this post and some other .PDFs pulled up when I got to the auto shop bays on post. 3$ an hour with all tools included FTW.
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 Old 09-25-2011, 03:48 PM   #172
 
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is it true that cp-e hdfp uses autotech internals, and just tests the shit out of it.

is it really worth the extra $ to get the cp-e pump?
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 Old 09-25-2011, 04:05 PM   #173
 
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Originally Posted by rangers4094 View Post
is it true that cp-e hdfp uses autotech internals, and just tests the shit out of it.

is it really worth the extra $ to get the cp-e pump?
I don't think they use autotech internals. If you think you're capable of performing the installation above then you should just get internals. Only advantage of cp-e is lifetime warranty.
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 Old 09-25-2011, 09:35 PM   #174
 
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Originally Posted by Pedal-Force View Post
Did you damage the piston trying to take it out? The oem one slides out, but the upgraded ones require removing the 18mm nut first because it's bigger. As long as you didn't damage it, put it back in and just monitor for fuel pressure as you add power. If you did damage it at all, then remove the nut and see what's up.

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It may have already been upgraded then because the piston was not coming out from the nut. As much as I was pulling on it I am surprised I didn't do any damage (I thought it was just supposed to slide out).

I've never had any issues with fuel/boost cut, I was only upgrading the internals as a precautionary measure since I am planning on getting the car dyno tuned at Cobb in the next week or so.
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 Old 09-26-2011, 01:27 PM   #175
 
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Originally Posted by rangers4094 View Post
is it true that cp-e hdfp uses autotech internals, and just tests the shit out of it.

is it really worth the extra $ to get the cp-e pump?
It is speculated that CP-E gets their internals from APR, since APR won't sell to anyone if you mention the word Mazda.
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 Old 09-26-2011, 06:44 PM   #176
 
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Originally Posted by yetihairball View Post
I've never had any issues with fuel/boost cut, I was only upgrading the internals as a precautionary measure since I am planning on getting the car dyno tuned at Cobb in the next week or so.
wont we still get boost/fuel cut even with hpfp upgrade? i was under the impression it was the map and or maf readings that set off the cuts.
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 Old 09-26-2011, 10:18 PM   #177
 
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Originally Posted by fulloncrazy View Post
wont we still get boost/fuel cut even with hpfp upgrade? i was under the impression it was the map and or maf readings that set off the cuts.
Get an AP and that won't happen.
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 Old 10-03-2011, 11:22 AM   #178
 
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Thanks for the guide!
Just want to add my .02 about the install. Regarding the e8 tool, you can get away w/using a 1/4 inch socket. I think it was a 1/4 inch, but it didnt strip any of the bolts, just be careful. Was really easy, thanks again.
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 Old 10-04-2011, 02:33 AM   #179
 
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so prior to installation of the internals clean with brake parts cleaner, and then soak in oil or gasoline?
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 Old 10-04-2011, 07:02 AM   #180
 
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Oil. No gas. Gas bad, it drys it out.

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 Old 10-04-2011, 09:01 AM   #181
 
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You can use gas to clean it just oil well afterwards!!
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 Old 10-04-2011, 11:26 AM   #182
 
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I just used non chlorinated parts cleaner and then oiled. No gas.
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 Old 10-07-2011, 03:28 AM   #183
 
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Originally Posted by davinspeed3 View Post
I just used non chlorinated parts cleaner and then oiled. No gas.
I'll be installing my fuel pump internals tomorrow, but before doing so. by oil, do you mean like motor oil that we put in our car?

I have some Royal Purple 5w-20.... would that work?

and do i just put like couple drops or so "oil" onto the shaft and bottom cylinder area?

Thanks! sorry for noob question, dont want to mess up the install
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 Old 10-07-2011, 05:00 AM   #184
 
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Originally Posted by xtasy View Post
I'll be installing my fuel pump internals tomorrow, but before doing so. by oil, do you mean like motor oil that we put in our car?

I have some Royal Purple 5w-20.... would that work?

and do i just put like couple drops or so "oil" onto the shaft and bottom cylinder area?

Thanks! sorry for noob question, dont want to mess up the install
its all good.

oil the internals themselves with motor oil. so yeah, royal purple would be fine. use some gloves and lubricate them well.
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 Old 10-07-2011, 11:57 AM   #185
 
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Originally Posted by xtasy View Post
I'll be installing my fuel pump internals tomorrow, but before doing so. by oil, do you mean like motor oil that we put in our car?

I have some Royal Purple 5w-20.... would that work?

and do i just put like couple drops or so "oil" onto the shaft and bottom cylinder area?

Thanks! sorry for noob question, dont want to mess up the install
Always good to ask and make sure. I was kinda scared to due this install at first. I'm not new to the mechanics of installing parts but never takin apart a pump and tried to put it back together. It really wasn't to bad. As for the question yes. Just use motor oil and oil the entire shaft, as it is the moving part. I used a liberal amount. Enough to cover the entire shaft, but not so much that's it's just dripping off. And FYI. Do not use one of those cheap clamp on table vices. I snapped it in half. Couldn't believe it. I ended up putting the socket on while attached to my breaker bar, held the socket on while beating the breaker bar handle on the concrete. Then after doing that I put the breaker bar between my legs and turned the pump with all I got, and off came the nut.
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 Old 10-07-2011, 01:12 PM   #186
 
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I've just ordered some Autotech internals so will be doing an install shortly, some very good info so feeling a little more confident. Just need to get myself a deep 18mm socket.
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 Old 10-07-2011, 04:46 PM   #187
 
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autotech internals came right now. =\ it's 6 already.. Hopefully ill finish the install before 8
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 Old 10-07-2011, 05:05 PM   #188
 
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Originally Posted by xtasy View Post
autotech internals came right now. =\ it's 6 already.. Hopefully ill finish the install before 8
dont rush, take your time.
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 Old 10-07-2011, 05:16 PM   #189
 
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Originally Posted by rghispanic88 View Post
dont rush, take your time.
^^^^ This. Don't rush something that could cost you big if you screwed it up.
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 Old 10-08-2011, 02:54 AM   #190
 
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haha yeah, i didnt install it today, going to install it monday instead.. working the weekends.

I guess I get the concept of the installation, one more question, shall i lube the spring too?
I spend today loosening my downpipe bolts, for next weeks or 2 weeks later dp installation.
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 Old 10-08-2011, 05:17 AM   #191
 
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Originally Posted by davinspeed3 View Post
Always good to ask and make sure. I was kinda scared to due this install at first. I'm not new to the mechanics of installing parts but never takin apart a pump and tried to put it back together. It really wasn't to bad. As for the question yes. Just use motor oil and oil the entire shaft, as it is the moving part. I used a liberal amount. Enough to cover the entire shaft, but not so much that's it's just dripping off. And FYI. Do not use one of those cheap clamp on table vices. I snapped it in half. Couldn't believe it. I ended up putting the socket on while attached to my breaker bar, held the socket on while beating the breaker bar handle on the concrete. Then after doing that I put the breaker bar between my legs and turned the pump with all I got, and off came the nut.

dude..uhh..anger problems?
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 Old 10-08-2011, 05:48 AM   #192
 
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Originally Posted by xtasy View Post
haha yeah, i didnt install it today, going to install it monday instead.. working the weekends.

I guess I get the concept of the installation, one more question, shall i lube the spring too?
I spend today loosening my downpipe bolts, for next weeks or 2 weeks later dp installation.
Yes, I'd lube all parts
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 Old 10-08-2011, 07:14 AM   #193
 
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Originally Posted by xtasy View Post
haha yeah, i didnt install it today, going to install it monday instead.. working the weekends.

I guess I get the concept of the installation, one more question, shall i lube the spring too?
I spend today loosening my downpipe bolts, for next weeks or 2 weeks later dp installation.
I didn't lube the spring as it's not getting any friction rubbing against another part. Don't see how that will help any, but can't hurt if it makes you feel better.

Originally Posted by foodtime View Post
dude..uhh..anger problems?
I was a little pissed after the vice broke, but had to improvise.
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 Old 10-08-2011, 04:40 PM   #194
 
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Originally Posted by toobs123 View Post
Thanks for the guide!
Just want to add my .02 about the install. Regarding the e8 tool, you can get away w/using a 1/4 inch socket. I think it was a 1/4 inch, but it didnt strip any of the bolts, just be careful. Was really easy, thanks again.
you will strip it.. someone used a socket on my pump the first time it came out.. the next time using the proper E8, it rounded one of the heads
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Originally Posted by bmorrisj View Post
you will strip it.. someone used a socket on my pump the first time it came out.. the next time using the proper E8, it rounded one of the heads
yeah I agree on not using the 1/4' socket. I used it for two of the bolts but on the third one it started to strip. I went and got an E8 socket and it came right out.



OP, great write up! KMD's instructions were okay but not great. Their pictures weren't very clear so yours definitely helped...........

If anyone is nervous about this install, Dont be!!! Just take your time, come with the right tools and dont forget the lube!
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 Old 10-19-2011, 11:26 PM   #196
 
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For anyone who has done this before, do you think it would be possible to use 2 adjustable wrenches instead of buying a 17 and 19mm open ended wrench?
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 Old 10-20-2011, 04:43 AM   #197
 
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Waiting on my KMD internals to come!!!!! Cant wait to get this installed!!!! Thanks for the write up!
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 Old 10-20-2011, 06:12 AM   #198
 
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Originally Posted by iracer7 View Post
For anyone who has done this before, do you think it would be possible to use 2 adjustable wrenches instead of buying a 17 and 19mm open ended wrench?
You can try, but keep in mind that space is extremely limited if you only remove the TMIC. I've done the fuel pump on several occasions and have never removed the battery or TIH. An open wrench will give you more room that an adjustable one. But I'm sure it can be done.
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 Old 10-21-2011, 07:22 PM   #199
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Originally Posted by rghispanic88 View Post
its all good.

oil the internals themselves with motor oil. so yeah, royal purple would be fine. use some gloves and lubricate them well.
read the thread awesome st00fs

anyways question. Have had my Cp-e pump in and out of car. Has been in a box for 6 months when i stocked out. I don't wanna take it apart, do I need to re-lube or will the car's lubage be enough?
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 Old 10-21-2011, 08:36 PM   #200
 
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Originally Posted by AZRushki View Post
read the thread awesome st00fs

anyways question. Have had my Cp-e pump in and out of car. Has been in a box for 6 months when i stocked out. I don't wanna take it apart, do I need to re-lube or will the car's lubage be enough?
yeah you should lube it. it might have dried up in 6 months
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