Fuel Pump internals Install!

[wolly6973]

Not sure what the OTS maps command for fp for stage 1, but that may be all that is requested.

Also, cpe pumps tend to run closer to stock pressures than autotech & kmd.

Try upping the boost and increasing fp and see if you are still holding pressure. Do these in separate map revisions though, so you will know what pushes it over the limit.

[sstevens805]

Just finished my install and saw a high pressure of 1777, not even WOT. Better already. Thanks for the instructions. You saved my ass.

[mre]

installed my autotech internals this past weekend. Only a few busted knucles...the blue fuel line clip is not much fun. Great preasure, saw over 2000 when logging at wot. Instead of a zip tie on the fuel line, I used a wooden clothes pin that was installed with a pair of needle nose pliers....easy on and off and did the job of a ziptie.

[TheRealDefman]

A note to say thanks for this, it helped me thru it just a couple of hours ago. A couple of thoughts to add:

1. Before you undo the fuel line on the bottom put on some safety glasses, there may still be some pressure and a little gas may spray out... right in your eye. Don't count on reflexes!!

2. When putting the pump back on, keep an eye on the alignment of the bottom fuel line and when it's lined up go ahead and loosely connect it. I had to back my pump out about 1/4 inch to get it back on, that metal line does move much or easily.

3. I wiped down my workbench with a wet rag to clean it, and I used a glass dish (like a Pyrex cooking dish) to put the parts in... clean, non-absorbent, sides so parts don't roll off, etc... just clean it when you're done and don't tell the old lady what you did with it.

[rghispanic88]

Originally Posted by TheRealDefman A note to say thanks for this, it helped me thru it just a couple of hours ago. A couple of thoughts to add: 1. Before you undo the fuel line on the bottom put on some safety glasses, there may still be some pressure and a little gas may spray out... right in your eye. Don't count on reflexes!! 2. When putting the pump back on, keep an eye on the alignment of the bottom fuel line and when it's lined up go ahead and loosely connect it. I had to back my pump out about 1/4 inch to get it back on, that metal line does move much or easily. 3. I wiped down my workbench with a wet rag to clean it, and I used a glass dish (like a Pyrex cooking dish) to put the parts in... clean, non-absorbent, sides so parts don't roll off, etc... just clean it when you're done and don't tell the old lady what you did with it.

your car squirted on your face. lol

[TriO]

Originally Posted by TheRealDefman A note to say thanks for this, it helped me thru it just a couple of hours ago. A couple of thoughts to add: 1. Before you undo the fuel line on the bottom put on some safety glasses, there may still be some pressure and a little gas may spray out... right in your eye. Don't count on reflexes!! 2. When putting the pump back on, keep an eye on the alignment of the bottom fuel line and when it's lined up go ahead and loosely connect it. I had to back my pump out about 1/4 inch to get it back on, that metal line does move much or easily. 3. I wiped down my workbench with a wet rag to clean it, and I used a glass dish (like a Pyrex cooking dish) to put the parts in... clean, non-absorbent, sides so parts don't roll off, etc... just clean it when you're done and don't tell the old lady what you did with it.

Number 2 for sure... This was prob the most annoying part of the install for me. Had to back mine out about 3 times just so it would seat properly.

[captain slow]

Ordered my Autotechs last night. I am terrified of doing this install after all the fail threads. I'll be keeping several of these how to's open.

[bigriver]

Originally Posted by freundb Ordered my Autotechs last night. I am terrified of doing this install after all the fail threads. I'll be keeping several of these how to's open.

Just free up as much space as you can and take your time. I took off intake and tip so i could see the hard fuel line because that gave me the most difficulty since it was just a hair too high to reinstall the pump. Start in the morning when engine is cold and minimal fuel in the lines. Dont need to pull the fuse. I kept a rag underneath to catch excess fuel, which wasnt very much. Have jp's phone number handy, lol.

[Pedal-Force]

Originally Posted by bigriver Just free up as much space as you can and take your time. I took off intake and tip so i could see the hard fuel line because that gave me the most difficulty since it was just a hair too high to reinstall the pump. Start in the morning when engine is cold and minimal fuel in the lines. Dont need to pull the fuse. I kept a rag underneath to catch excess fuel, which wasnt very much. Have jp's phone number handy, lol.

I wouldn't recommend not pulling the fuse. You don't know how much pressure might still be in there. Just 1000 psi is enough to cause serious problems by injection under the skin. It takes an extra few seconds, not worth skipping.

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[bigriver]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force I wouldn't recommend not pulling the fuse. You don't know how much pressure might still be in there. Just 1000 psi is enough to cause serious problems by injection under the skin. It takes an extra few seconds, not worth skipping. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Not sure how you get 1000 psi from a cold engine that has intake and tip removed and no power. Seems like pulling the fuse is unnecessay.

If I'm wrong, I'd like to buy a pump that can do that.

@freundb - be sure to wear safety glasses.

[Pedal-Force]

Originally Posted by bigriver Not sure how you get 1000 psi from a cold engine that has intake and tip removed and no power. Seems like pulling the fuse is unnecessay. If I'm wrong, I'd like to buy a pump that can do that. @freundb - be sure to wear safety glasses.

If you don't have a leak then the pressure doesn't go down much after shutting the car off, even after hours. At least from what I've seen on the gauge.

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[wolly6973]

If you let it sit all night it does. I have done fp after sitting overnight and sitting for an hour, and there is a huge difference. No worries about stuff spraying out at you if it sits overnight.

[DingoDave]

Originally Posted by wolly6973 If you let it sit all night it does. I have done fp after sitting overnight and sitting for an hour, and there is a huge difference. No worries about stuff spraying out at you if it sits overnight.

Same results here as well.. Overnight.. no problems.. Car sitting for an hour and half gets you some decent fuel spillage but only from the yellow connector fuel line. The low pressure one coming from the tank. Didn't have any problems with the high pressure metal line or the blue connector fuel return line. (granted I took off the yellow line first.. .then the blue line.. then the metal line)

[MSPEED]

Here's a video of me and a couple guys installing internals on Pauls GenWon
MazdaSpeed Fuel Pump - YouTube

[Dmurray06]

thats a good video..."like throwing a hotdog down a hallway" i almost fell off my chair, haha.

[adrager622]

Originally Posted by MSPEED Here's a video of me and a couple guys installing internals on Pauls GenWon MazdaSpeed Fuel Pump - YouTube

Awesome video! This should be added to the first post, along with the walk-through. Removing the pump is easy, but this visual aid to walk you through the internal install is great. This will really help when I tackle this project in the spring. I love the reaction when the stock internals come out. "Is that the pain in ther ass one?" "yes" "That's it?!?"

[captain slow]

Got my Autotechs, read the instructions and watched the video. In most how tos that steel fuel line on the bottom is to be undone while the fitting on the pump is to not move. According to the video and instructions you remove the fitting anyway.

Also, is it really necessary to do all of that? Or can I just do the internals?

[Nliiitend1]

I'm unsure of what exactly you're asking...

Yes, the pump must be removed completely to swap out the internals (meaning that removing all of the fuel lines from the pump is indeed necessary).

[bigriver]

Originally Posted by captain slow Got my Autotechs, read the instructions and watched the video. In most how tos that steel fuel line on the bottom is to be undone while the fitting on the pump is to not move. According to the video and instructions you remove the fitting anyway. Also, is it really necessary to do all of that? Or can I just do the internals?

You disconnect the pump from the hard line. Not really necessary to disasemble and clean the entire pump unless you think its that dirty. I just swapped the internals.

[captain slow]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 I'm unsure of what exactly you're asking... Yes, the pump must be removed completely to swap out the internals (meaning that removing all of the fuel lines from the pump is indeed necessary).

Yeah, sorry. My post was kind of confusing. Basically, the video posted above shows the guys taking apart the entire pump. They removed the piston, spring, retainer but also took out the pressure relief valve, the fuel line fitting and the pump cover and all the stuff inside. I was wondering if that's all necessary. I just figured I'd do the internals cleaning the threaded cylinder that goes over the piston.

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by captain slow Yeah, sorry. My post was kind of confusing. Basically, the video posted above shows the guys taking apart the entire pump. They removed the piston, spring, retainer but also took out the pressure relief valve, the fuel line fitting and the pump cover and all the stuff inside. I was wondering if that's all necessary. I just figured I'd do the internals cleaning the threaded cylinder that goes over the piston.

Ah, gotcha. That makes sense. I hadn't watched the video...

[b1iNkl82]

This is a great thread. I'm getting my internals soon and this will def help.

Can someone clean this thread up and add/edit the first post to include some of the additional thoughts?

[sveli]

Is this the instruction for removal of the blue connector?



and this for the yellow?

[DingoDave]

Originally Posted by sveli Is this the instruction for removal of the blue connector? and this for the yellow?

Looks right to me

[rghispanic88]

yes sir

[bigriver]

Ya just be careful with the yellow clip and dont let it fall off into no mans land. The blue clip does not have to come off completely. It can be halfway off.

[Jhornbrook]

Alright I just did my install went well took me 2 hours took my time had a few assholes around telling me to not fuck shit up. Any way after I primed a few times I started the car obviously it was a rough start up but when I gave it a little gas I saw that my fuel pressure would hang at like 1600 until the rpm went back down. Is the hanging pressure normal. I read most of the thread and didn't see a answer to the hanging pressure. Is it normal?

[rghispanic88]

Originally Posted by Jhornbrook Alright I just did my install went well took me 2 hours took my time had a few assholes around telling me to not fuck shit up. Any way after I primed a few times I started the car obviously it was a rough start up but when I gave it a little gas I saw that my fuel pressure would hang at like 1600 until the rpm went back down. Is the hanging pressure normal. I read most of the thread and didn't see a answer to the hanging pressure. Is it normal?

yes thats normal. but there is no designated fuel pressure when just "giving it some gas" only idle and WOT i believe.

[Boatcop1]

Originally Posted by captain slow Yeah, sorry. My post was kind of confusing. Basically, the video posted above shows the guys taking apart the entire pump. They removed the piston, spring, retainer but also took out the pressure relief valve, the fuel line fitting and the pump cover and all the stuff inside. I was wondering if that's all necessary. I just figured I'd do the internals cleaning the threaded cylinder that goes over the piston.

Still have not found an answer to this? Is it mandatory to take the whole pump apart or are we just doing the internal swap? I will be attempting in a few weeks. Just curious.

[foodtime]

Whole pump does not need to be disassembled. Remove bolt, unthighten BIG nut, thread in autotech or KMD bolt internals with spring and "hat", tightend down BIG nut, then done!

[captain slow]

Originally Posted by Boatcop1 Still have not found an answer to this? Is it mandatory to take the whole pump apart or are we just doing the internal swap? I will be attempting in a few weeks. Just curious.

Read foodtime. Just do the install of internals. Do everything if u want but its not necessary. If u plan on running e85 u might want to. That's a whole different discussion tho.

[Boatcop1]

Originally Posted by captain slow Read foodtime. Just do the install of internals. Do everything if u want but its not necessary. If u plan on running e85 u might want to. That's a whole different discussion tho.

Saweet, thanks bro. Although corn is starting to make its way to my neck of the woods I dont see me making the switch.

[gpower07]

shit...today i did my autotech internal...but i didn't lop with motor oil on the piston and spring....am i going ok? i already start the car...warm up for 30 min. and drove for half mile!!!!!

[Spoofmastafly]

Originally Posted by gpower07 shit...today i did my autotech internal...but i didn't lop with motor oil on the piston and spring....am i going ok? i already start the car...warm up for 30 min. and drove for half mile!!!!!

Seriously? You didn't think to put oil on the internals? Do you have any way to monitor them? I would take the pump apart and put a lite coating of engine oil on them.

[gpower07]

i have a AP. everything looks good. idle at 420-450psi. pressure built up quick(2k-3k rpm around 1600PSI. never try WOT.

[gpower07]

Originally Posted by Spoofmastafly Seriously? You didn't think to put oil on the internals? Do you have any way to monitor them? I would take the pump apart and put a lite coating of engine oil on them.

should i take it out and redo it again?

[Pedal-Force]

Don't bother. You've already driven it. It's oiled now. The reason you oil it yourself is because otherwise it's dry for the first few revolutions. If it was gonna get damaged, it's already done, no need to to redo it. You'll find out eventually.

[gpower07]

i dipped the piston with the O ring into gasoline. will that kill the O ring? if so. i can take it out and redo everything again.

[850wagonT5]

This may be a stupid question, but...what's the reason for upgrading the internals as opposed to just getting a whole new higher flow pump??

[rghispanic88]

Originally Posted by 850wagonT5 This may be a stupid question, but...what's the reason for upgrading the internals as opposed to just getting a whole new higher flow pump??

The pump that is replaced is not in the gas tank, its the one on top of the motor (somewhat).

There are no other "higher flow pumps" per say, Like Cp-e all they do is replace the internals themselves, test it and then sell it for a ridiculous price along with a warranty.

internals work just as well as a new pump which in essence is the same pump with new internals.