Final decision on headstud arguement

[HaXiR]

So I'm in the process of rebuilding a side motor to swap in, and I've been doing tons of research on like everything, pistons, rods.. all that shit. And I thought I had it figured out with the headstuds. Replace them but avoid arp2000's because people lifted heads. L19/H11 was the way to go until the CA 625's showed up. So that's what I've did, I bought the CA625's.
Just a while ago I was having a discussion with another guy that's building a motor and had bought the ARP2000's. I was like whoa man, from what I've gathered those things give out and lift the head, go with the CA625's.
And as I went through some old MSF threads to show him about it, I really began to see people talking about it's not necessarily the studs/bolts but the Tq being used on them. Then I saw people putting over 500+ whp on stock bolts! I saw the difference in tinsel strength's, so my question is this...

Are there whp values that hit a point that say, up to xxx whp you can use stock head bolts
up to xxx whp use arp 2000's
up to xxx whp use L19/H11/CA625's?

I'm trying to find this sort of info, because if I can, id just like to sell these CA625's and go stock because it's like 60 bucks vs 300... And my goals are around 500+/- whp

MY view on head studs for the MZR

I looked at this thread, but are those numbers for whp accurate? Up to 620whp for stock headbolts?

[Nitr0EngiE]

if you want to do 500+ stick with the better studs.... its not worth risking it at that power level. stay away from arp 2000.

[HaXiR]

Yeah I read about the arp 2000's, just thinking it may save a lot of money using stock head bolts if they can handle 500 whp, and by the looks of it they can?

[mituc]

Originally Posted by HaXiR Yeah I read about the arp 2000's, just thinking it may save a lot of money using stock head bolts if they can handle 500 whp, and by the looks of it they can?

Some say the ARP2000s are not better than the OEMs. They are a little bit more rigid but less elastic and when they elongate you're done.
So go with L19 or whatever is better.

[HaXiR]

Originally Posted by mituc Some say the ARP2000s are not better than the OEMs. They are a little bit more rigid but less elastic and when they elongate you're done. So go with L19 or whatever is better.

I have the custom age 625's. The debate is stock head bolts vs. these CA625 studs. DO I really need them if my power will be max around 500 +/-

[Nitr0EngiE]

bro this is what your saying, let me translate....

"I am willing to spend 6k building the engine and stuff, but when it comes to head studs I want to save 200$ and risk having problems"

just saying

[HaXiR]

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE bro this is what your saying, let me translate.... "I am willing to spend 6k building the engine and stuff, but when it comes to head studs I want to save 200$ and risk having problems" just saying

Ya I get what you're saying, but I mean, If it doesn't NEED it, and these head bolts have proven to hold big power, WHY spend the money?

[Nitr0EngiE]

because there is doubt its called piece of mind

[mituc]

Man, what can I say... the debate on the head studs had a pretty clear outcome. I'm not saying you should do as people suggested here, I'm sure there are other options as well (more or less tested), but in the end it's your decision.

[Easter Bunny]

For $240 bucks i would not want to be so close to the limit.

I would only use stock head bolts if you expected to stay medium turbo and around 400-430 hp.

[HaXiR]

I suppose that's a valid point... guess I'll just stick with the CA's..

[Tokay444]

It's less about the material and more about that torquing technique.

[HaXiR]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 It's less about the material and more about that torquing technique.

Is there a special way of torqueing these CA625's down, or is it like others and do 20/40/60 in the proper order

[Tokay444]

No one knows. The one tried tested and true method is stock screws with oem torquing procedure.