MAF Calibration Tutorial

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by eksces this log was made with around 40 miles. Now I have over 200 miles on it but didn't log it yet.

I can see the ECU is making very minor corrections to fueling after 30 g/s from your STFT even tho the LTFT has gone to 0 from 30 g/s and up. If you have over 200 miles on this re-flash then you deffinitely should have some LTFT's locked in.

Your really goin far to get your MAF curve spot on

[ms3blackmica]

might be making a video on a complete ATR walkthrough so that all these noobz can understand whats really going on when they edit all these tables we have.

[ms3blackmica]

i think Mazdaspeed TV episode 2 is cominng out soon !

[dantes5823]

You must be really bored lol

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by dantes5823 You must be really bored lol

extremely !!

i think i am going to contribute to MSF this year by making it the year of the least noob posts lol

[dantes5823]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica extremely !! i think i am going to contribute to MSF this year by making it the year of the least noob posts lol

You are asking for a miracle.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by dantes5823 You are asking for a miracle.

lmao

[dantes5823]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica lmao

Im gonna go an talk a politic into legalizing open carry now in that case.

[ms3blackmica]

ATR Walkthrough

[SpeedNess]

@ms3blackmica once again thanks for you awesome guides. I have a question I was hoping you can answer. So Ive already done my CL MafCal, now I am moving to OL WOT MafCal. My problem is that I am using a stage 1 ots map as my baseline and for some reason the taregeted AFR on these maps are all over the place.

My question is will it be a better idea to set my commanded AFR as per Abilors guide, say 11.4 for everything over 1.25 load and 2500 RPM in CL and OL tables, and then do the WOT MafCal.

What will you recommend, and thanks in advance.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by SpeedNess @ms3blackmica once again thanks for you awesome guides. I have a question I was hoping you can answer. So Ive already done my CL MafCal, now I am moving to OL WOT MafCal. My problem is that I am using a stage 1 ots map as my baseline and for some reason the taregeted AFR on these maps are all over the place. My question is will it be a better idea to set my commanded AFR as per Abilors guide, say 11.4 for everything over 1.25 load and 2500 RPM in CL and OL tables, and then do the WOT MafCal. What will you recommend, and thanks in advance.

Yeah OTS maps are a bit all over the place. Your stradegy on fueling is up to you.

Generally what i do is this...I'll set a pretty rich AFR like 11.0. Its a nice even number. And is also plenty rich that i should not see any knock. I will dial the car in like this and do my WOT Maf Cal until i hit 11.0 everywhere. Once you see your AFR's nice and steady, all i have to do is go back to my fueling tables and set it to whatever i want (i.e. 11.4, 11.5, 11.6, etc...)

This usually helps get the WOT Maf Cal down pretty easy. If you see a lot of knock during the pull, you won't be able to use any data during the knock event. So to keep knock to a minimum, you can do a WOT Maf cal with a rich AFR. Then once your done, lean it up a bit to whatever you want or whatever your gas can handle.

[SpeedNess]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica Yeah OTS maps are a bit all over the place. Your stradegy on fueling is up to you. Generally what i do is this...I'll set a pretty rich AFR like 11.0. Its a nice even number. And is also plenty rich that i should not see any knock. I will dial the car in like this and do my WOT Maf Cal until i hit 11.0 everywhere. Once you see your AFR's nice and steady, all i have to do is go back to my fueling tables and set it to whatever i want (i.e. 11.4, 11.5, 11.6, etc...) This usually helps get the WOT Maf Cal down pretty easy. If you see a lot of knock during the pull, you won't be able to use any data during the knock event. So to keep knock to a minimum, you can do a WOT Maf cal with a rich AFR. Then once your done, lean it up a bit to whatever you want or whatever your gas can handle.

Thanks, I had already logged the WOT pull with no knock, much to my surprise since I only have 91 octane available, but when I went to check the target AFR to make the correction on the MAF tables I stumble upon the mess of AFR's that the OTS maps commands.

Again thanks for you awesome advice I really appreciate it. Sorry to keep tagging you in my questions by after seeing the race videos of you and your friends and after following your guides I can see that you have and exceptional tuning knowledge for this car.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by SpeedNess Thanks, I had already logged the WOT pull with no knock, much to my surprise since I only have 91 octane available, but when I went to check the target AFR to make the correction on the MAF tables I stumble upon the mess of AFR's that the OTS maps commands. Again thanks for you awesome advice I really appreciate it. Sorry to keep tagging you in my questions by after seeing the race videos of you and your friends and after following your guides I can see that you have and exceptional tuning knowledge for this car.

LOL yeah we might race a little too much. No problem man, no worries. I'm glad to help.

The OTS maps are a mess in regards to fuel. But you have to understand that they make the target AFR richer as the RPM increases in order to keep the combustion chamber cool and not cause any knock. They are just being safe. I personally think it is best to set your AFR's to something simple, easy, and consistent. If you want to richen it up in the higher RPM for safety (or to get more timing) you can certainlly do that as well. But you can set your AFR's to even numbers and not the crazy values the OTS maps have with 3 decimal points.

[NavySVO]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica Lately while trolling MSF during the late hours of the night and seeing whats been going on in the world of zoom zoom, i've noticed more and more threads being posted by noobies and their endeavours in tuning their car. While most people would highly recommend such noobz to just contanct one of the many excellent tuners we have on this site and community and i think that is a great idea, but i also am all for people wanting to learn. Many guys on the forum do an excellent job posting in these noob threads to help them figure out their MAF Cal's, WGDC's, Timing, etc..etc..etc.. But one problem still persists. A lot of people understand this stuff naturally, and some don't. Some people come from a mechanical background and can pick up on this stuff very easy (or already know it!). While others, although they love cars and are car guys, they may not exactly be very tech savy or much of a gearhead like some of us Sometimes no matter how much you explain it, it just doesn't make sense to some people and that is totally understandable IMO. Not everyone can figure out something as precise as tuning. For example, i had to call tech support for my computer one time and the technician just could NOT understand the problem i was having. So i took a video of the issue, emailed it to him and he understood what i meant right away and got my issue fixed. Sometimes words just cant explain something that easily. Being in front of someone to see how they do something is a gaurenteed way that they will understand it. Unfortunately, as an online forum, we communicate through text. So the next best thing to being in front of someone, is a video! So lately i have seen so many threads popping up about MAF Cal's and how to do them and even some members resurecting old threads on how to do this procedure. I really wanted to help these people but i could see that they just were not understanding the concept even though we have plenty great Sticky threads and guides on this topic. So i made a 6 part video to show how this process is to be done. I dont think i ever came across a video of the process. I hope this helps people from making serious mistakes from now on. I tried to keep this is basic, basic, basic, as possible. *NOTE: This is by no means meant to insult anyone on this site or their experience and knowledge or that their advice was not good enough. I am 100% a optimist and i figure the more resources future speed owners can have, the better. I hope this helps some of the people who are having a hard time and just need to see it to understand what to do. This tutorial can be followed for both the Gen 1 MS3, Gen 2 MS3, and also the MS6. And Lastly, this is for STOCK SIZE INTAKES only (i.e. stock intake, Cobb SRI, Cp-e, etc..etc..). If you upgrade to a larger than stock MAF housing you will have to scale the maf curve which i am not going to get into to keep things simple and basic. ***Please be careful when performing WOT (Wide Open Throttle) logs. You will be breaking the law because of the speeds you will be accelerating to in 4th gear. Make sure your tires are in good condition, have adequite pressure, and that your car is aligned properly. Anything can go wrong at over 100 MPH and extra caution must be taken when logging these pulls. You are at your own risk when performing WOT logs and you must take every precaution before starting. For best results, watch in 720p HD and full screen and in the order they are placed. You can also download the zipfile to keep them on your computer and watch offline. Also i apologize for constantly coughing. I am still getting over having a sore throat If you would like to know how i mounted my AP, you can visit this thread... Mounting Your Accessport Setting up your Accessport MAF Calibration Tutorial Part 1 of 6 - YouTube How to perform a closed loop MAF Cal Log MAF Calibration Tutorial Part 2 of 6 - YouTube How to analyze the data from your closed loop MAF Cal log and make the appropriate changes in AccessTuner Race MAF Calibration Tutorial Part 3 of 6 - YouTube Making Sure you do not have any dips in your MAF Curve! MAF Calibration Tutorial Part 4 of 6 - YouTube How to perform a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) Log MAF Calibration Tutorial Part 5 of 6 - YouTube How to analyze the data from your WOT MAF Cal log and make the appropriate changes in AccessTuner Race MAF Calibratuion Tutorial Part 6 of 6 - YouTube

Is there another way I can get the 261M zip file other than this site? It keep timing out right @ 160M, and I have tried about 20 different times, and at different times of the day (and night). If I PayPal you some money can you ship me the file on a CD?

Thanks

[Pierre Loubser]

Hi,I live in South Africa and I have a 2009 Mazda 3 Mps with a gt35 turbo with a built motor and I have an upfraded fuel pump.The problem is that I have an 100mm intake on and my ltft stays at -0.16 for all mass air volumes.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by NavySVO Is there another way I can get the 261M zip file other than this site? It keep timing out right @ 160M, and I have tried about 20 different times, and at different times of the day (and night). If I PayPal you some money can you ship me the file on a CD? Thanks

It's not working?

I was able to download it.

I don't know much about any download issues from the site.

@Haltech could you chime in ?

Originally Posted by Pierre Loubser Hi,I live in South Africa and I have a 2009 Mazda 3 Mps with a gt35 turbo with a built motor and I have an upfraded fuel pump.The problem is that I have an 100mm intake on and my ltft stays at -0.16 for all mass air volumes.

Has the tune been calibrated for the 100mm intake ?

[Pierre Loubser]

I used the Cobb worksheet to calibrate it,yes.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Pierre Loubser I used the Cobb worksheet to calibrate it,yes.

And how did you scale the MAF curve for the large intake size ?

[Pierre Loubser]

Your tutorial was very good,thank you.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Pierre Loubser Your tutorial was very good,thank you.

You do realize that you have to scale the MAF curve for larger than stock intakes right ?

[Pierre Loubser]

Yes,I used the global intake calibratio tool and it gave me 1.5038.I then used that on the stock Maf curve.

[Pierre Loubser]

I might not have driven far enough for the ltft to kick in as I have been loading plenty of maps.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Pierre Loubser Yes,I used the global intake calibratio tool and it gave me 1.5038.I then used that on the stock Maf curve.

What did you use as the stock intake size?

Originally Posted by Pierre Loubser I might not have driven far enough for the ltft to kick in as I have been loading plenty of maps.

How many miles have you driven?

You usually start see LTFT's after a few miles. But requires about 50 miles for a MAF Cal log. You can see your STFT's changing right away though.

[Pierre Loubser]

I used the stock values that I got from the stock map I got with the AP.I drove less than 10 miles.

The stft were as high as 35.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Pierre Loubser I used the stock values that I got from the stock map I got with the AP.I drove less than 10 miles. The stft were as high as 35.

i really don't understand what you mean by "taking the values from stock map".

the stock map doesn't tell you the MAF housing cross sectional area. It only shows you the non linear relationship of MAF voltage to mass air flow g/s.

When you put a larger than stock intake on, you need to come up with a scalar. This scalar is the ratio of the 100mm intake to the factory intake size (which i do not remember off hand).

Do you mean the STFT were as high as 25?

25 is the max amount the ecu can correct. Was the trim + or - ?

[Pierre Loubser]

I got it from the cobb maf calibrator and the I used the multiplier on the stock values of a stock map with stock intake.I then copied that to a stage 2 maps maf curve.I got stft from+47 to -25.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Pierre Loubser I got it from the cobb maf calibrator and the I used the multiplier on the stock values of a stock map with stock intake.I then copied that to a stage 2 maps maf curve.I got stft from+47 to -25.

do you mean +4.7 and -2.5 or do you actually mean +47 as positive forty seven?

I think there is a miscommunication here

[Pierre Loubser]

47 and 25

[Pierre Loubser]

Have a look at the log.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Pierre Loubser Have a look at the log.

Okay first off, there is nothing in that excel document that shows you/gives you any scalar for a bigger intake. That document was just to show how the ECU calculates final ignition timing.

You need to tell us more about your car. What are the full list of mods? How is it set up?

Looking at your log, your ECU is making enormous corrections to fueling (both pulling fuel and adding fuel) and this is not good. It is evident that your MAF Calibration is not correct. While i do not remember the stock intake diameter, I can already tell you a scalar of 1.5 is deff not enough for a step up to 100mm. This may be why you have so much more fuel being added in the higher g/s range. I think you need to start from scratch with a base OTS map, multiply your scalar and then start dialing in the car.

@rfinkle2, what is the stock MAF housing diameter? I cannot remember for the life of me and I don't wanna take mine apart to check lol

[Pierre Loubser]

Try this one

[Pierre Loubser]

Global Intake Calibration Multiplier 3.14159 = pi
This calculation should only be used to assist you in the generation of a base map so that you can start your vehicle which has a
MAF housing other than stock installed on it. Tuning your Intake Calibration table must be performed after you have started your
vehicle. Please refer to the "AccessTUNER Software Calibration and Tuning Guides for Subaru v1.XX.pdf" document which explains
how to tune your intake calibration using the live tuning features of the AccessTUNER Pro and AccessTUNER Race software.
When switching your intake to an aftermarket you can use this multiplier to glabaly modify your Intake Calibration table based on the
difference in diameters (surface area) between the two intakes, follow Step 1) below

66.5 Step 1) Enter the inside diameter for your stock MAF housing, choose from below list.
100.0 Step 2) Enter the inside diameter for aftermarket MAF housing.
=
1.5038 Step 3) Your Global Intake Calibration Multiplier
Step 4) Copy (CTRL+C) the data from cell B15 from this worksheet, highlight all of the lower cells in the
Intake Calibration table, press the "m" key, then paste (CTRL+V) the copied value into the dialog
box asking for a floating point value then press the Enter key.


Surface Area of a Sphere = 4 pi r 2
Intake Diameter Surface Area

66.5 mm ~ ID of stock 2007-2009 USDM Mazda 2.3L DISI MAF housing
65.0 mm ~ ID of Injen STi Cold Air Intake System - 65mm, P/N IS1201

[ms3blackmica]

Your Scalar should be 2.2613.

It doesn't matter if you use the formula for cross section or area of a sphere. 4 and pi will cancel out.

Let me show you the math.

(New MAF cross sectional area) / (Stock MAF cross sectional area)

(pi * (100/2)^2) = 7853.981634 mm^2 ----For 100mm intake

(pi * (66.5/2)^2) = 3473.227028 mm^2 ----For Stock 66.5mm intake

Divide the two. (7853.981634) / (3473.227028) = 2.2613 (rounded off) this means that the 100mm intake has a cross sectional area 2.2613 times larger than the cross sectional area of the 66.5mm intake

The reason you kept getting 1.5038 is because the formula embedded in that excel file did not square the radius of both intake sizes. Start from scratch again and use 2.2613 as your scalar now.

[rfinkle2]

Sorry I'm late, but as posted above 66.5mm.

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by NavySVO Is there another way I can get the 261M zip file other than this site? It keep timing out right @ 160M, and I have tried about 20 different times, and at different times of the day (and night). If I PayPal you some money can you ship me the file on a CD? Thanks

Works fine on my end.. If others want to download to confirm... I'd appreciate it.

[Pierre Loubser]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica Your Scalar should be 2.2613. It doesn't matter if you use the formula for cross section or area of a sphere. 4 and pi will cancel out. Let me show you the math. (New MAF cross sectional area) / (Stock MAF cross sectional area) (pi * (100/2)^2) = 7853.981634 mm^2 ----For 100mm intake (pi * (66.5/2)^2) = 3473.227028 mm^2 ----For Stock 66.5mm intake Divide the two. (7853.981634) / (3473.227028) = 2.2613 (rounded off) this means that the 100mm intake has a cross sectional area 2.2613 times larger than the cross sectional area of the 66.5mm intake The reason you kept getting 1.5038 is because the formula embedded in that excel file did not square the radius of both intake sizes. Start from scratch again and use 2.2613 as your scalar now.

Thanks,I will try the 2.2613 and take it from there.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Haltech Works fine on my end.. If others want to download to confirm... I'd appreciate it.

i tried downloading kevin.

worked with no issues. i'm not sure why he was having any.

[burn813]

subbed for gr8ness

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by burn813 subbed for gr8ness

let me know if you ever have any questions

[NavySVO]

@ms3blackmica can the 4th gear portion of the cal be done on a dyno? I only ask because:
A. I want to dyno the car for numbers, and I can then kill 2 birds with one stone, and

B. It aleviates trying to find an area around here where I can open up to that speed while logging, traffic and cops.