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 Old 01-26-2009, 07:07 PM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by 18psiWhiteMS3 View Post
what step colder would i want for this setup

1.Cobb inlet
2.cobb SRI
3.Cobb Turboback exhaust
4.SU TMIC
5.denso ??????????
6.hks bpv
7.cpe HPFP
8.cpe standback
1 step/ITV22. You probably wouldn't start to look at 2 steps unless you go BT.
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 Old 01-27-2009, 02:57 PM   #42
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whats BT besides for my initials??
edit, is that BIG TURBO????
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 Old 01-27-2009, 03:51 PM   #43
 
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Originally Posted by 18psiWhiteMS3 View Post
whats BT besides for my initials??
edit, is that BIG TURBO????
Yea, Bigass Turbo
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 Old 01-27-2009, 04:02 PM   #44
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i hurd BigASS turbos can suck little children in them and because i live near a school i wont get one. speed is not worth murder
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 Old 03-24-2009, 04:05 PM   #45
 
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What is the torque specs for the spark plugs? I will be getting densos soon.
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 Old 03-24-2009, 04:13 PM   #46
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8-10 ft lbs
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 Old 03-24-2009, 04:23 PM   #47
 
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That seems very low for a boosted car
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 Old 04-22-2009, 03:31 PM   #48
 
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subbing... interesting topic
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 Old 04-29-2009, 05:31 PM   #49
 
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what gap? i had missfire toady nothing big I will strech spring in my coild and look at plugs...what gap for fully bolted car making around 280whp??
I have denso step colder plugs
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 Old 04-29-2009, 05:36 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by SonnyBonahoe View Post
subbing... interesting topic
scroll to the top of the page and click on thread tools > subscribe to thread. don't post "subbing" please

Originally Posted by wisniaPl View Post
what gap? i had missfire toady nothing big I will strech spring in my coild and look at plugs...what gap for fully bolted car making around 280whp??
I have denso step colder plugs
.030 eh
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 Old 04-29-2009, 06:19 PM   #51
 
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Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
scroll to the top of the page and click on thread tools > subscribe to thread. don't post "subbing" please



.030 eh
thank you
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 Old 07-17-2009, 02:19 PM   #52
 
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what type of plug gapping tools are you guys using?
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 Old 07-17-2009, 05:19 PM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by hnda etr View Post
what type of plug gapping tools are you guys using?
The cheap 99c coin from autozone works fine for me, doesn't have to be dead on.
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 Old 08-05-2009, 06:50 PM   #54
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try to get it the same on the gapper. gap is essentially related to timing. the smaller the gap the less resistance it takes to make the spark. so in other words sparks faster. wider gap and it takes longer to spark. 99 cent gapper from autozone.. they are good
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 Old 08-06-2009, 09:36 AM   #55
 
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Originally Posted by 18psiWhiteMS3 View Post
try to get it the same on the gapper. gap is essentially related to timing. the smaller the gap the less resistance it takes to make the spark. so in other words sparks faster. wider gap and it takes longer to spark. 99 cent gapper from autozone.. they are good
I ended up buying the $3 mini feeler gauges.... Since the gap is so important, I didn't want to use the $0.99 cheapo tool....

I compared the feeler gauge 0.028 against the $0.99 gapper, and the cheap gap tool is so far off it's not even funny...
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 Old 08-06-2009, 09:48 AM   #56
 
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^^^ feeler gauge is the way to guy, way more exact.

back to plugs tho, i have been using the itv-24 2 step colder for awhile now no issed i switched from the 1 step. noticed big decreace in knock from 1 step to 2 step.
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 Old 08-06-2009, 09:57 AM   #57
 
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Originally Posted by 2007speed3 View Post
^^^ feeler gauge is the way to guy, way more exact.

back to plugs tho, i have been using the itv-24 2 step colder for awhile now no issed i switched from the 1 step. noticed big decreace in knock from 1 step to 2 step.
how are you noticing the knock? datalog with AP or DH? My AP datalogs show hardly any KR w/ITV-22's.... But then again, I didn't have a lot of KR with the OEM plugs either...
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 Old 08-06-2009, 11:10 AM   #58
 
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AP.

i did not have ap with stock plugs so i could not comment.

but just simple switch from step 1 to 2 made a reduction in knock.

i just recently applied the ol cl fix to my stage 2 setup and wow knock is almost 96% better/gone
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 Old 08-06-2009, 11:12 AM   #59
 
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Originally Posted by 2007speed3 View Post
i just recently applied the ol cl fix to my stage 2 setup and wow knock is almost 96% better/gone
Huh?
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 Old 08-06-2009, 11:21 AM   #60
 
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open loop/ closed loop

makes it go open loop faster.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...op-tables.html
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 Old 08-06-2009, 11:32 AM   #61
 
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Originally Posted by 2007speed3 View Post
open loop/ closed loop

makes it go open loop faster.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...op-tables.html
Ahhh...cool....
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 Old 08-24-2009, 06:59 PM   #62
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I just got my Denso ITV 22 plugs, they appear to be gapped to 0.028 with one at 0.030 so I tightened that one up to 0.028 also.
I will be running an ATR modified Stage 1+ map.

Cobb says:
"Our data has shown that the factory spark plug temperature range (6) and gap (~.034”) are
sufficient for stock boost levels and normal driving conditions. Although, operating the car with higher
than stock boost levels or with the calibrations that are on the AccessPORT, require that a spark plug
gap of .026” - .028” (6.6 – 7.1mm) be used on a 1-step colder temperature plug. Denso currently offers
this spark plug as part # ITV22 (please be sure to verify each plug is properly gapped before installing
them). Our experience has shown that operating your turbo-charged engine at higher than stock boost levels requires that your spark plugs be replaced at around 15,000 mile intervals."

So what gap are you guys running the Denso ITV22 at??
Give answer as gap, and map you run.
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 Old 08-24-2009, 08:50 PM   #63
 
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Originally Posted by sbspeed View Post
any sources on the Denso Iridium itv-24 - 2 stage colder heat range plugs?

haven't had much luck locally
Sparkplugs.com
Optionsauto.com <-- got mine here

Originally Posted by FreeFlyFreak View Post
I just got my Denso ITV 22 plugs, they appear to be gapped to 0.028 with one at 0.030 so I tightened that one up to 0.028 also.
I will be running an ATR modified Stage 1+ map.

Cobb says:
"Our data has shown that the factory spark plug temperature range (6) and gap (~.034”) are
sufficient for stock boost levels and normal driving conditions. Although, operating the car with higher
than stock boost levels or with the calibrations that are on the AccessPORT, require that a spark plug
gap of .026” - .028” (6.6 – 7.1mm) be used on a 1-step colder temperature plug. Denso currently offers
this spark plug as part # ITV22 (please be sure to verify each plug is properly gapped before installing
them). Our experience has shown that operating your turbo-charged engine at higher than stock boost levels requires that your spark plugs be replaced at around 15,000 mile intervals."

So what gap are you guys running the Denso ITV22 at??
Give answer as gap, and map you run.
.028" stage 2+ sf 91
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Last edited by hnda etr; 08-24-2009 at 08:53 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 08-25-2009, 02:45 PM   #64
 
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.026/18 psi ATR map - I just tapped them a little to see if I could get them down to .026 and basically did. Gapping these things is not fun and I'm not confident in the accuracy of doing it by hand.

To someone above - jets have 3 altimeters so they have a tie breaker, i.e. how do you know which was off if you only compared two?
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 Old 08-25-2012, 08:29 AM   #65
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Has anyone ran the copper plugs listed in the op? Been looking for a 1 step colder copper plug, but did not think they existed for the mazdaspeeds until I saw the ngks in the op but no comments on temp rating on them.
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 Old 07-14-2014, 01:42 PM   #66
 
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Breathing some fresh life into this thread. How did everyone's results turn out? I've heard a few horror stories about going one step colder on plugs? Now that its time for me to swap mine out i'm wondering how the Denzo's VS the NGK's worked out?
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 Old 07-14-2014, 01:47 PM   #67
 
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wow
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 Old 07-14-2014, 09:44 PM   #68
 
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Been a step colder in ngk from 30k to 115k no problems
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 Old 07-21-2014, 02:56 AM   #69
 
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For the metric people out there, how should I use the 0,26 -0,28 value?

I believe you mean 0,26-0,28 thou? that will be 0,026-0,028 inch, and that will be 0,66-0,71mm?

Do I stand correct in this?
@Haltech;

And I believe NGK is pre gapped at 0,044 inch / 1.1mm.
In post # 22 NGK says the following:

While this plug is dimensionally correct I would not suggest using the
LTR7IX-11 for this application as the gap setting is too large (factory set to .044"). You do not want to gap any plug more than .008" from where it is factory set, as more than this and the inner surfaces between the electrodes will not be parallel and can cause the plug to misfire and wear out very quickly (iridium plugs seem to be very sensitive to this gap adjustment range especially under boost).

Anybody have some experience with this?
Because if you want to gap these to 0,26-0,28 you will have to close the gap by 0,16, which they don't recommend, but how is this working out in real life for everyone?
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 Old 07-28-2014, 01:48 PM   #70
 
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Default Which plugs???

Stock plugs changed at 6,000 (first oil change)
2nd set NGK 3787 Iridium (would cut out at higher rpms after modding the vehicle) (stock gap .044)
3rd set NGK 6510 1 step colder (gapped to .028) runs great but still cuts out above 5,000 rpms. Gas mileage however has consistently dropped by 3- 5 mpg.

I plan on buying the Denso 2 step, i will gap to .028 with feeler gauge and then report back.
My current mileage is about 79k.
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 Old 07-30-2014, 04:37 PM   #71
 
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Originally Posted by GOAT View Post
Stock plugs changed at 6,000 (first oil change)
2nd set NGK 3787 Iridium (would cut out at higher rpms after modding the vehicle) (stock gap .044)
3rd set NGK 6510 1 step colder (gapped to .028) runs great but still cuts out above 5,000 rpms. Gas mileage however has consistently dropped by 3- 5 mpg.

I plan on buying the Denso 2 step, i will gap to .028 with feeler gauge and then report back.
My current mileage is about 79k.

Plugs came in yesterday. Straight out the box the gap was .032 instead of the labelled .044. All four were the same. So if anyone is worried about reducing the gap to work for our vehicle more than likely you will be o.k. Also i used a digital and manual feeler gauge so the reading were within a thousandth.

In the vehicle the idle was just a tap lower. Which i liked. Can't elaborate on cut out or performance yet, need to re-tune due to other issue but will keep you posted. So far my vote is to skip the step 1.

P.S. also on a side note Step 1 NGK plugs were $9.07. The Step 2 Denso plugs were $6.99!!!!!
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 Old 07-30-2014, 07:55 PM   #72
 
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You got a link for the plugs? I read earlier in this thread the the Denso's were garbage?
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 Old 07-30-2014, 08:56 PM   #73
 
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Default Link for the 2 step Denso plugs

Originally Posted by HighSun_Murder View Post
You got a link for the plugs? I read earlier in this thread the the Denso's were garbage?
http://www.edgeautosport.com/manufac...rk-plug-itv24/

However I buy most of my over the counter stuff from a local Advance Auto parts store, so i just gave them the four digit part or stocking number (5341) mentioned in my post above and they ordered it straight from Denso. It was cheaper than most prices i saw online and they didn't tack on any shipping.
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Last edited by GOAT; 10-17-2014 at 09:42 AM. Reason: Adding the stocking number for spar plugs
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 Old 08-04-2014, 03:47 PM   #74
 
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Originally Posted by 2007speed3 View Post
open loop/ closed loop

makes it go open loop faster.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...op-tables.html
Link didn't work for me. Is it outdated????
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humm....
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